dogbone vs Univ joint vs CVD
- DMAT
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dogbone vs Univ joint vs CVD
can someone give me the pros v cons on this? I see a lot of people gravitate towards a CVD but i dont know why.
- skunk.werkz
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Re: dogbone vs Univ joint vs CVD
Dogbones are stock, cheap. OEM universals are not rebuildable but offer better transmission of power through the driveline because its one telescoping unit. MIP CVD's are rebuildable and thus probably the most practical and affordable for long term racing purposes.
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Re: dogbone vs Univ joint vs CVD
Imho, there is not much difference in performance between them. I prefer plastic telescoping units because, for me, they have always been the most durable and trouble free. However, I have CVD's on most of my stuff just because of availability. I personally think that the "rebuildable" CVD is a bit of a sham. In my experience the bones and axles wear out just as fast, if not faster, than the couplings.
- DMAT
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Re: dogbone vs Univ joint vs CVD
I guess for the moment, it sounds like its just worth running my univ joints until they go out.
were the plastic telescoping ones even made for an rc10 or was that modded?
were the plastic telescoping ones even made for an rc10 or was that modded?
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Re: dogbone vs Univ joint vs CVD
They used to be available from a few companies, but not anymore, unfortunately. They do still show up for sale occasionally on here or Ebay.
- RC10th
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Re: dogbone vs Univ joint vs CVD
The good thing about CVD's is your dogbone doesn't go flying into never never land if a ball cups pops off. CVD's are also rebuildable.
Dog bones tend to give the car a bit more side bite, although, if your just bashing you wouldn't be able to tell.
Dog bones tend to give the car a bit more side bite, although, if your just bashing you wouldn't be able to tell.
I was old school - when old school wasn't cool !
Re: dogbone vs Univ joint vs CVD
I agree on plastics being better, but they have to be very beefed up to equal the strength of the metal ones. One thing with plastic I like is that they don't wear as much compared to metal, that is when plastic to plastic rubbing is occurring. The cups rather than the ball end of a dog bone wears much faster, and also the pins. Although the designs work, that is of CVDs, unis and dogbones, they all are not much durable and not designed for long term usage. One way of improving is using rubber boots, and fill the joints with a good amount of grease, preferably molybdenum grease.
I love the look of the universal shaft though although the CVDs are a little better and more serviceable.
I had bought a used buggy from a guy once cause it had some nice hopups and the cups and dogbones were worn quite a bit, so I did a quick fix by inserting a brass sleeve in the 4 cups, and gluing, than cut/file in the slots so that the dogbones go through into the cups. now the bones fit in snugly and don't rattle. The sleeve I got was from a radio telescoping anterna, one of the tubes was the perfect size to fit and let in the dogbone, so I cut it and used.
I love the look of the universal shaft though although the CVDs are a little better and more serviceable.
I had bought a used buggy from a guy once cause it had some nice hopups and the cups and dogbones were worn quite a bit, so I did a quick fix by inserting a brass sleeve in the 4 cups, and gluing, than cut/file in the slots so that the dogbones go through into the cups. now the bones fit in snugly and don't rattle. The sleeve I got was from a radio telescoping anterna, one of the tubes was the perfect size to fit and let in the dogbone, so I cut it and used.
Re: dogbone vs Univ joint vs CVD
b4, t4, b44 front and rear, all of them from .0's to .2's.DMAT wrote:any idea which cvd kits uses a 3/16 axle over a 1/4.
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