Novak T-4 receiver lead replacement

[TRX-1-3]

Howdy,

I need to replace the receiver lead(s) at the board on a T-4. Got a Novak replacement lead on the way. Popped open the case and looking at the board, I have traced the wires to the corresponding nodes. I consider myself to have average hobby level soldering skills and finally got a Weller soldering station for Christmas (from my mother-in-law, how cool is she?).

For those that have done this: Any tips or advice before I get after this? Will a 3/32" tip be too sloppy. I've done lots of battery packs, connectors, motor wires and capacitors, but never got down on a speedo re-wire.

Thanks,

Mark

[GoMachV]

Assuming these are thru- hole, use a solder sucker or braid to clean up the area, thread the new wire thru and solder it up. Should be pretty straightforward. Don't try it if you can't get the hole to open up, you don't want to try to force the wire thru it won't work

Taken pics of the area just in case. It's good to have for reference. Leave the leads long thru the hole then snip or cut them off afterwards

[TRX-1-3]

Yes, through-hole. Excellent tips. Thanks dude.

[jwscab]

the wires on the T4 should be through-hole.

the best method to remove the old wire is to tin (that means put a nice blob of solder on) the tip of the iron, and heat the wires. when the solder heats up, add a bit more solder so that the flux cleans the joint.

to remove the wire, you should hold the printed circuit board in something like a panavise or bench vise. very lightly if the jaws are metal. I have a panavise that has plastic jaws. hold the board upside down so you can apply heat with the iron, and place the board so the wires on on the outside edge so you can grab it easily. now gently pull on the wire straight down while heating the wire end and circuit board on top. as the solder melts and you wiggle the wire, it should wiggle out pretty painlessly.

if you can set the iron temp, set it to 750-780 or so, and only keep the iron on as long as you need to get the wire out. clean the hole up with solder wick/braid.

putting the new wire is a little bit trickier. If you can strip the wire back and twist, tin the end of the wire lightly, so that there isn't a big blob on the wire, and see if it fits into the hole in the circuit board. if so, you are golden, hold the wire up into the board, tin the iron tip(usually the roll of solder end is hanging in space, just touch the iron), and add the solder to the joint. when it heats it all up it will flow to make the connection. add more solder if needed, then clip the end of the wire flush with the others.

if you tin the wire and get too much solder in it, heat it up, and 'flick' it, so that the solder flies off before solidifying, obviously not near your eyes.

when tinning the wire, or adding more solder to the board, remember to touch the solder to the wire or board, not the iron.

there is also a time element here. the reason i tell you to add solder to the iron is to get material to flow. however, the flux is only active when it heats up and then it essentially burns off. so the quicker you can 'use' it, the better.