Need help w/DHawk metal stealth case
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Need help w/DHawk metal stealth case
I recently purchased the Dhawk metal case to replace the stealth on my Team Car. I was actually looking to just replace the idler gear because it had stripped the teeth on it. I bought the DHawk aluminum idler gear and diff gear. As I was looking for the gear, I found Dhawks aluminum case and decided to get it too. Question: what bearings go in the case that hold the top shaft? I sent a message to DHawk thru Amazon and they replied they are the 3/16 x 3/8 bearings which are the same size bearings that was in the stock stealth and I am getting a lot of axial and radial play in the top shaft. Something is different w/this case and I am not too familiar with the RC10 models after the team car to know what changed. Any help is appreciated! Thanks!
- jwscab
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Re: Need help w/DHawk metal stealth case
It's an aftermarket case and made of metal, so the tolerances are probably not very good. I have not seen them in person but know there have been mention of off sizes of some dimensions for some of their parts. You could add a careful drop of red loctite or crazy glue on the surface of the case and insert the bearings to form a tighter fit. If I had them in hand and ready to use, that is what I would do
- XLR8
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Re: Need help w/DHawk metal stealth case
Welcome aboard.
Dhawk Racing products are made in China which really isn't the global center of excellence for precision fit and finish.
In extreme cases when clearances are very large, I've also used JB weld to tighten the fit of bearings. Like CA and Loctite, be careful to prevent the epoxy seeping into the bearing while it sets up. JB doesn't adhere well to the hard smooth OD surface of the bearing so it can still be removed fairly easily.

Dhawk Racing products are made in China which really isn't the global center of excellence for precision fit and finish.
In extreme cases when clearances are very large, I've also used JB weld to tighten the fit of bearings. Like CA and Loctite, be careful to prevent the epoxy seeping into the bearing while it sets up. JB doesn't adhere well to the hard smooth OD surface of the bearing so it can still be removed fairly easily.
Doug
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