Turbo Blizzard DF300 EP

[SMOKE-DOG]

Parts came in today. Robinson Racing 48p 87t super machined spur gear and a Robinson Racing 48p 20t aluminum racing pinion. Replacing the stock Kyosho gear. I don't have a digital scale but I can tell just in my hand that the new gears are much lighter. They feel about half the weight but they are much stronger. And lighter weight moving parts in the drivetrain equals lower rotating mass...or something.



Stock Kyosho gears on left, Robinson Racing on right.



They even look sweet.

Will know how they work tomorrow.

[Lonestar]

Parts came in today. Robinson Racing 48p 87t super machined spur gear and a Robinson Racing 48p 20t aluminum racing pinion. Replacing the stock Kyosho gear. I don't have a digital scale but I can tell just in my hand that the new gears are much lighter. They feel about half the weight but they are much stronger. And lighter weight moving parts in the drivetrain equals lower rotating mass...or something.



Stock Kyosho gears on left, Robinson Racing on right.



They even look sweet.

Will know how they work tomorrow.

lighter spur is probably a 0.0001% savings over the whole rotating mass in this thing

Paul

[Lonestar]

Another piece of advice - hook up the brake links closer to the rotating point on the servo - it'll give you much more accuracy when adjusting your EPA's so you can get just the right feel when "turning"...

Awesome fun, those blizzes!

Paul

[SMOKE-DOG]

Had the Blizzard out again today. I ended up changing the 20t pinion to a 23t and got a little more speed.



Got it up on 1 track.



Donuts!











I thought about doing a brake upgrade but I dont think it needs it. I will probably add spring seperaters for the calipers but that's about it. Played with the radio some more now this thing handles perfectly. I can make curved tracks in the snow easily.

[SMOKE-DOG]

Did a little brake mod today. The stock brakes move on a 3mm threaded screw. Not sure why Kyosho didn't think to machine a flat spot in the middle of the screw to allow the brakes to move freely as to not get caught up on the threads but I did. I dont have a lathe so I threw them in my drill press and took a file to them and finished off with some gritty sandpaper.





I then added some Ofna spring separators to allow the disk to move freely. I noticed that even without the brakes on, they would rub the disk while running.





The brakes now move freely and after making a few more steering adjustments I now have even better control than I had before. Brakes dont go to full lock until I turn the wheel to full lock and I have plenty of brake feel in between.

[SMOKE-DOG]

After only about 5-6 runs, I noticed some corrosion on my brake parts and chains. Guess I need to thoroughly dry it out after each run and not just let it sit in the tub.





My brake mod was a failure. The screws I filed down to allow the brakes to move smoothly have started to rust making the parts stick and unable to move freely.



To fix this, I'm going to use Titanium screws in hopes they wont corrode. I also ordered some new springs and some adhesive brake pad material for brake mod v.2. For now, I used some gun lubricating oil to clean up the parts. It claims that it penitrates the metal and helps prevent rust. It did clean the parts so I'll run with it.

I also noticed that the wheels dont spin freely. There is a small piece of plastic that rubs the inside of the rims so I broke out the Dremmel and took about 60 seconds and filed down the plastic behind all the wheels so now my wheels spin smoothly.

[kaiser]

that is one cool blizzard.