*Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

[RC104ever]

Hi everyone,

I have the JC Racing wheels installed on my RC10 with stock hubs on RPM rear arms. I bought the MIP RC10 CVD kit from Tower and the axles are a bit short. Everytime I pick it up, the left one pops out of the stealth tranny outdrive.

From what I've read here, the MIP B2 / B3 CVD kit would work, is that right? My concern is that the axles I have work perfectly with the wheels I have and I don't want to change that, just want to get a longer dog bone.

I remember reading somewhere here about how to lengthen a dog bone, anyone have the link for that thread?

[scr8p]

put limiters inside the shocks so the suspension doesn't droop so much.

[RC104ever]

put limiters inside the shocks so the suspension doesn't droop so much.

Could I switch to a newer shock setup? I wanted to go with threaded shocks anyways...how long are the stock gold shocks? I see references to 1.02 and 0.89" a lot here.

[scr8p]

you'd have to do the same thing with new threaded shocks, too.

rc10 rears are 1.32.

[CTYankee]

I'm considering doing this on my gold pan RC10. I have the wider arms in the front and am planning on getting the wide suspension mount (6 hole):
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=ASCC2331&P=K

I would like to use the Rulux wheel (prefer the spoked look and durability):
rear: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTTC6&P=ML
front: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTTC4&P=M

Based on this thread I would need to use different axels and the consensus is to use the CVDs. However the B2 CVD is not longer available. I did some more poking around and found the Thunder Tiger Universal CVD:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=pd9000

The original post mentions "correct buggy suspension parts", yet all the reading I've done (the entire thread and then some) I can't find what exactly these suspension parts are. What other mods are needed? Is there anything else to consider before doing this mod?

[JK Racing]

the biggest issue you will run into is having the b4 wheels on the rear...

2 schools of thought:

change arms/CVDs to widen the rear end (dynotech/RPM worlds 91 & B44 CVD)

change the rear hub/CVDs to widen the rear end (modified B4 carriers & B44 rear CVD)

I did option #2 and like the feel of the car, I also run the Rulux wheels, but also be forewarned, on the front end, if you do not use the wide GT axles, it will be narrower than stock.

[CTYankee]

change arms/CVDs to widen the rear end (dynotech/RPM worlds 91 & B44 CVD)

change the rear hub/CVDs to widen the rear end (modified B4 carriers & B44 rear CVD)

I did option #2 and like the feel of the car, I also run the Rulux wheels, but also be forewarned, on the front end, if you do not use the wide GT axles, it will be narrower than stock.

I think option 2 is the way to go. Can I use the 3/16" rear axels and stock dog bones rather than CVD? I'm not sure how much wider the rear needs to be and if the dog bones will fall out. I'm hoping to do these upgrades with as little cash as possible and only making changes when I have to or there is a real benefit. I've read up on the dog bone and CVD and have not really heard anything that screams "CVD is better".

Regarding the front, how much narrower? Looking at those axels, I'm not sure they will work in the stock hubs. I don't see where the e-clip would go on, or do they fasten in the hub some other way? Maybe these are not even the right ones:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKYT2&P=7

[fredswain]

E-clips? Do you have trailing steering in your car where the axle is mounted behind the vertical kingpin? These axles work with inline steering where the axle is held in place by the vertical kingpin running through it. I run these on mine but the steering hub has to be drilled out.

[JK Racing]

those are the correct axles, mine were blue:



Like Fred said, you need inline steering knuckles, as seen here:



For the rear, by using the different offset rear hubs, you will need a longer bone, the B44 rear cvd set is pretty much a drop in (also assuming you are running a stealth tranny, NOT a 6 gear). Keeping cost down as much as possible, there is a way to cut/lengthen the bones, I have seen it on here, but cant find the thread offhand.

[jwscab]

I'm not 100% sure, but you **may** be able to use B4 dogbones rather than CVD's, but it would have to be measured.

[CTYankee]

E-clips? Do you have trailing steering in your car where the axle is mounted behind the vertical kingpin? These axles work with inline steering where the axle is held in place by the vertical kingpin running through it. I run these on mine but the steering hub has to be drilled out.

Yes, I have the trailing steering. So to sum up so far (and provide a few links and help for others)....


2.2 wheels on a Cadilac (A stamp) Gold Pan RC10, with 6 Gear transmission

Front:
Rulux Wheels (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTTC4&P=M)
3/16 x 5/16 (???) flangedBearings for wheels
Wide Axels to correct width (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKYT2&P=7)
inline steering blocks to allow use of wide axels (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKYT2&P=7)

Rear:
Rulux Wheels ( http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTTC6&P=M )
Still working out what parts are also needed....will update when I figure it all out

[CTYankee]

Like Fred said, you need inline steering knuckles

Not what I have. Found black ones, assuming white will be an EBay find.

For the rear, by using the different offset rear hubs, you will need a longer bone, the B44 rear cvd set is pretty much a drop in (also assuming you are running a stealth tranny, NOT a 6 gear). Keeping cost down as much as possible, there is a way to cut/lengthen the bones, I have seen it on here, but cant find the thread offhand.

Yes, using the 6 gear. Once again, that bites me in the rear end...

[JK Racing]

pick up some el-cheapo B4 RTR dogbones to do the "resizing"...basically, cut the dogbone, find a sleeve (brass/steel/??) that the cut end fits into snugly and resize as needed (some of the B4 long bone will need to be removed to make the shorter). Once the right size has been achieved, you can coat the inside of the sleeve/cut dogbone end with epoxy and reassemble. give it ample time to dry, but make sure (measure twice/cut/glue once) you have the right size. Good idea to have a jig of some time ready to keep them straight while you are at it

The drive cups on the 6 gear are not as deep as the stealth tranny, I had mine all set up, swapped in my freshly rebuilt 6 gear and found that issue. I put my stealth back in and never looked back. You should not have an issue if you make your own dogbones though.

3/16 x 5/16 (???) flangedBearings for wheels

should be standard bearings.

[CTYankee]

pick up some el-cheapo B4 RTR dogbones to do the "resizing"...basically, cut the dogbone, find a sleeve (brass/steel/??) that the cut end fits into snugly and resize as needed (some of the B4 long bone will need to be removed to make the shorter).

I have not completely given up on this idea, but am a bit confused. The B4 RTR dog bones are listed as being 63mm long. I looked at the stock dog bones I have. THey appear to be 63mm long (end of ball to end of ball) as well. So I'm not sure why these would be too short. Maybe the specs at TH are wrong? http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGEJ9&P=7

Assuming I do need longer dog-bones i measured the other specs: the balls 6mm wide, and the bone shaft is 11mm long and ~2.25 (more than 2, but not much). I looked around to see if anything else is out there that is longer but equal to these other specs.

I found these: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTP77
68mm long, 5.9mm ball, 11mm ball arm, ??mm ball arm width.

[RC104ever]

Tower carries the original dog bones as well:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2558&P=7