Associated's RC10 Classic

[Anthony]

I'm not a fan of it either really.

I am not a fan of this body also

[rknize]

Showing my ignorance (most of my experience is with 1980's stuff), but the chassis is the 40th anniversary gold chassis. Battery is mounted inline, and the wires stick out the end of the battery, preventing it from fitting. It's a 2S battery.IMG_0799.JPGIMG_0798.JPG

I use those same "round" Wolfpacks on my vintage cars that were designed for NiCads, but as you noticed they are a bit longer than those old packs. It's not an issue on most of my cars, but there are exceptions. The RC10 is one of them (Tamiya TA-02 is another).

If you take some measurements and spend some time looking at battery pack specs online, you'll notice that the vast majority of hard stick packs won't quite fit in the stock holder. You can jam them past the stock hold-down and they will fit width-wise, but not length-wise. Even when the leads come out of the top, the packs are a bit too long to swing into the stock holder. Most hard packs with the appropriate height seem to be about 47mm wide by 138mm long and the stock holder can only manage about 136mm by my reckoning. If you are willing to cut the front off of the holder, you can swing them in there but now your servo mount has to deal with the battery banging against it in a crash.

I see some folks buy a soft pack and just wedge it in, but I'm not really a fan of that. I've done what most seem to do: buy a shorty and use a foam block of some sort to keep it pressed up against the forward battery holder. The car appreciates the forward weight bias anyway, so it's a win-win. You can also go aftermarket and get a fancy holder that will mount the shorty transverse.

[rknize]

This might be another option.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/325116795282?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=D84v3Z4_TVu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=rUKMRphWSMG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

That might just about give enough extra space to make it work.