Fan RC FR-01

[Rc10812]

Oh man. Excellent feedback already. Thanks guys!

So, yeah basically that's what I did. I added a small metal washer and that seemed to do the trick. The bellcranks just clear the chassis now by a smidge.

I also carefully tightened down the plastic hex head bushings a little better and am more satisfied with how sturdy they are. I might add a drop of ca on top after I'm more sure it won't need to come apart again.

I must say that I completed through page 5 of the instructions, the world's instructions, i have both on hand though, and so far parts "Bag A" did it's job. There is one odd looking stubby screw and those nylon washers I mentioned before leftover. That's it. Maybe... maybe they are for spacing the bellcranks? I'm satisfied with my metal washers for now. I'll keep them stored safe in the mean time. Although there's only 3 now. I could have sworn there was 4 to start. But I will keep the rest safe.

I do think the original graphite bellcrank setup was better but I have to keep telling myself this isn't an rc10 graphite. This is a worlds kit redux. Actually a little bit of a hybrid. The chassis and the shocks appear to be the same as the real "rc10 graphite" the rest appears to be world's car.

[morrisey0]

I was hoping that since it too so long for my FR01 to get to me, that it would show up just as a manual became available for it. I asked Cheng about it yesterday, and he just said "this month." So that didn't give me the warm and fuzzy that it would be in the next week or so.

[RogueIV]

Oh man. Excellent feedback already. Thanks guys!

So, yeah basically that's what I did. I added a small metal washer and that seemed to do the trick. The bellcranks just clear the chassis now by a smidge.

I also carefully tightened down the plastic hex head bushings a little better and am more satisfied with how sturdy they are. I might add a drop of ca on top after I'm more sure it won't need to come apart again.

I must say that I completed through page 5 of the instructions, the world's instructions, i have both on hand though, and so far parts "Bag A" did it's job. There is one odd looking stubby screw and those nylon washers I mentioned before leftover. That's it. Maybe... maybe they are for spacing the bellcranks? I'm satisfied with my metal washers for now. I'll keep them stored safe in the mean time. Although there's only 3 now. I could have sworn there was 4 to start. But I will keep the rest safe.

I do think the original graphite bellcrank setup was better but I have to keep telling myself this isn't an rc10 graphite. This is a worlds kit redux. Actually a little bit of a hybrid. The chassis and the shocks appear to be the same as the real "rc10 graphite" the rest appears to be world's car.

Yeah had the same issue with the belcranks. The screw hole should be smaller for more bit, i ended up running longer screws through them i also put a small nylon spacer under them to give it more clearance.

The diff in the kit is kinda meh. The gear it too tight and the balls\diff rings make for a gritty feel. I ended up yanking the diff out of my project rc10t and tossing it in this tranmission and the binding went away and that diff it buttery smooth.

Ran some practice laps with it and it handles OK, needs some tweaking to not push so much on the Turf track but i think i can get it to hook up well

[Rc10812]

Didn't AE just re release the RC10T? If so shouldn't we be able to get a legit stealth transmission from them? Assuming the 10T had the same stealth transmission. Damn I wish they would just manufacture this stuff again and make it easy on us. I've actually contacted them through customer service and I get quick replies. Often helpful and it's hard to say for sure but sometimes feels sarcastic or snarky. Things like "have fun buddy"... haha. I'm like damn dude all I want to do is buy stuff from you. Make it and sell it to me. But they have their reasons.

[morrisey0]

The maker, Cheng Fan, is one of the legit nicest people you could possibly work with.

Small tweaks have always been needed for pretty much every vintage (and rere vintage ) kit rc car ever made.

[RogueIV]

Here's my chassis after it's maiden voyage.

It looks great. BTW it also comes with noseplate stays so if you really wanted to build all this on a Tub you could.

Didn't AE just re release the RC10T? If so shouldn't we be able to get a legit stealth transmission from them? Assuming the 10T had the same stealth transmission. Damn I wish they would just manufacture this stuff again and make it easy on us. I've actually contacted them through customer service and I get quick replies. Often helpful and it's hard to say for sure but sometimes feels sarcastic or snarky. Things like "have fun buddy"... haha. I'm like damn dude all I want to do is buy stuff from you. Make it and sell it to me. But they have their reasons.

Not sue if you saw the FB post but AE is going to start releasing Parts for the RC10 family.

[RogueIV]

In regards to the Belcranks
Just thought of something that can kill 2 birds with one stone. Use a thin profile 8-32 nut to secure the bellcrank screws to the chassis then put the included shims and bellcranks over them. This will keep the screws from loosening up and making the bellcranks wobbly and will also space the bellcranks up so they clear the chassis.

Overall thoughts on the kit, with some tips
Aside from the previously mentions Bellcrank an Diff issues everything fits very nicely together in the kit. That said like most kits of old, you may have to do some filing/sanding to fit parts together properly. I prefer this over newer kits with looser tolerances and you can get a much nicer build out of it with less slop without having to use 20 packs of shims. (don't get me started on how sloppy new Schumacher kits are) .
Both the 4-40 cap screws and 8-32 flat head screws use a 3/32 hex driver. Pretty cool IMHO as I can work on the car with 1 less driver. The 8-32 hardware is the proper 100degree version as well.
The plastics are great quality and the finish on the Carbon parts looks amazing.
The included ball bearings seem to be pretty good quality as well.
The inclusion of both white and black arms is a nice addition.
You may need to adjust the amount of shims needed for the rear axles. Mine only required 2 shims per side. Glad to see they included the anti crush spacers so you can tighten your rear wheel nuts with reckless abandon without binding up the drivetrain.
The body and wing are OK although the window nets aren't well defined and would have preferred if they just left the window plain. Also there's no markers for the body posts, this isn't a big deal for me but some people really like them. Funny enough the Wing tubes are marked on it though.

The ballcups seem to work better than their AE counterparts and doesn't require you to have the Might of Hercules to screw them on.
The turnbuckles seem well made, just keep in mind the rear ones are made to use the innermost hole and will not work on the any of the locations in the 3x3 section unless you want positive camber for some wild reason.
Rear Bulkhead is the same type as the Rere World's car. I opted to cut the outer 2 columns of camber link holes off and then used the part that I cut off as a drill guide and drilled another column of holes in between the remaining column and the innermost hole so I could somewhat replicate Craig Drescher's setup (https://site.petitrc.com/setup/associated/setuprc10/RC10W_CraigDrescher_Dortmund2013041314/) These positions work with the supplied turnbuckles as well.
Don't forget to CA the rear wing tubes in, unless you like them popping out every time you pull the wing off.
As stated by others you may need more internal spacers in the rear shocks if you're not using the outer holes on the arms to avoid having the half shafts collide with the arms. At least they used the shorter version of the shock shafts so it's not as bad as the Classic and 40th where the instructions are wrong and no fuel tubing is supplied to make it right.

[Rc10812]

Excellent feedback. I for one greatly appreciate it. Some of it is slightly above my head so far. I'm a little nervous about these axles but I'll cross that bridge when I need to.

That's great news that AE will start making replacement parts. I really love their stuff and it's all I know.

The graphite parts do seem top quality. I used some 800 grit sand paper to just knock off the sharp edges. I love the 8-32 nut idea. Just gotta look up some extra hardware kits to buy. Anyone know some good quality stuff that works w AE stuff? I admit I ask before I search so shame on me.

[morrisey0]

Finally took some time away from the pullers to get into the FR01 tonight. Fun build so far.

Agree that the bellcranks need some spacing under them to separate them from the chassis.

Also agree that the diff is a bit on the rough side. I am just going to go with the "it will clearance itself" approach to it.

I think I may have to coffee dye the link ends. The whiteness is bothering me.

Other than that, straight forward RC10 build so far. I did remember that mine was shipped with the CVA barrels missing, and they were shipped separately, and I did receive them, but right now, have no idea where they are.

[GoMachV]

the rod ends look good from here! Whatever you do dont use the latest AE rere ones, wow i have never seen such crappy ball ends. At least the neon green ones would stay on the ball.

[juicedcoupe]

Whatever you do dont use the latest AE rere ones, wow i have never seen such crappy ball ends. At least the neon green ones would stay on the ball.

I'm glad you said something, I was about to buy a couple sets.

[GoMachV]

Yeah mine are already showing stress marks where the rods thread on too. Really, really bad. Ugh.

[RogueIV]

Yeah mine are already showing stress marks where the rods thread on too. Really, really bad. Ugh.

One of the only things on the 40th that I don't really like were those ballcups. Too tight on the tie rods and too loose on the ball studs.

[jcwrks]

Yeah mine are already showing stress marks where the rods thread on too. Really, really bad. Ugh.

One of the only things on the 40th that I don't really like were those ballcups. Too tight on the tie rods and too loose on the ball studs.

Taiwan quality

[morrisey0]

Ran into a couple of issues quickly as I got into this evening's work on the FR01.

1) Bent CVA. Given that FanRC isn't in the CVA manufacturing business, I am guessing these were outsourced. I stated earlier about my kit, and this was typical of many of the first kits, that the CVA barrels were not shipped in the original kits. I am guessing this is an issue with the CVA manufacturer / source. I am guessing this bent shaft is the fault of the same source.

2) I may be me missing something here, which is often the case. I have the rear links twisted all the way in, and am in the inner hole on the bulkhead, but still just a bit of positive camber???