RC10 buggy with long RPM arms

[Niki]

Hello,
I don't think RPM #80492's are long enough for RC10T/GT use...?

-Niki-

[BohemianBabyDev]

So in my hunt to find arms to build my RC10GTE Basher (Sos I don't have to destroy my vintage arms when smashing into city things)
I happened across the post using RPM front arms with and RC10T bulkhead and arm mount.

Picked these up today to test them.
Realized I'll need to shave the inside inside a bit to fit the metal support and
ream the outer pins a bit to fit the associated hinge pins but otherwise it looks like a fit.

If anyone has any other suggestions I am open to them.
It will be nice to have A Arms readily available for my GTE.

This is RPM Part 80242

[BohemianBabyDev]

Hello,
I don't think RPM #80492's are long enough for RC10T/GT use...?

-Niki-

Currently been testing RPM Part 80242 (If you check the photos the wheelbase on this part is shorter than the original).
I may be mistaken but I believe Part 80242 (The one I'm testing now) is shorter than #80492 and I've mounted it and am in the process of trying to find shorter Camber links and shorter turnbuckles to keep the toe similar. I used a 4-40 no head screw and chopped it to size to get camber / castor / toe under control.
The arms on RC10GT are the same make as RC10T2 and same length as RC10T and the measure in at around 3.5 inches in length maybe a tad more.
I got Part 80242 to work but it is Not long enough to create the same wheel base as the original RC10GT arm.
I'll post a picture here using Part 80242. I'm kinda just working on finding a readily available arm that doesn't break easy and that I can replace at a reasonable price.
I have some 3d printed GT arms but the cost of 3d printing in Carbon/Nylon is just as much as buying an original set off ebay.
So my OEM aren't really something I wanna be bashing or practicing with.

Mind ya I'm technically a beginner who once raced a bit in the 90's and I love love my RC10T (So I'm finishing a restore and shelving it.)
The RC10GT basher project is a mid motor config that I'm putting a VTS slipper on and will hop up as needed.
It will end up on a track for a bit of fun later on.

Anyway, I know you know your stuff but here's where I'm at so far on my Front Bulkhead on My Franken 10T.
I'm working on the front arms problem while i wait for the rest of my GTE parts to come in the mail.

If there's one that's a bit wider than 80242 I'm open to mess a set up to get the build right.

[GoMachV]

The nitro arms would be shorter or the same, definitely not longer. You might try the 70662 extended arms. They add 1.25” to the width of an electric rustler and since those are the arms you are currently trying they would be easy to estimate the width. Just add 1.25” to your existing width to see where you would end up. https://www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/a-arms/front-a-arms/wide-front-a-arms-for-the-traxxas-e-rustler-stampede-2wd/

[BohemianBabyDev]

The nitro arms would be shorter or the same, definitely not longer. You might try the 70662 extended arms. They add 1.25” to the width of an electric rustler and since those are the arms you are currently trying they would be easy to estimate the width. Just add 1.25” to your existing width to see where you would end up. https://www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/a-arms/front-a-arms/wide-front-a-arms-for-the-traxxas-e-rustler-stampede-2wd/

Rad, while digging through the measurements last night I saw that, have some on their way.

[JPaul]

Thanks for posting. I’m planning to do the very same, so please keep us posted. One of my concerns is the stock shock length. The oem arms have the risers that are not on the rpm arms. I think this would impact the ride height and possibly the handling.

[juicedcoupe]

The newer (T2 style) arms have the raised shock mounts.

You can still adjust the ride height with limiters and spring adjustments.

[BohemianBabyDev]

The newer (T2 style) arms have the raised shock mounts.

You can still adjust the ride height with limiters and spring adjustments.

I actually have an original arm on it's way.
Thing I notice I got the RPM Rustler Long arms but as you stated the Associated arms have a tab that runs up.
Without the tab the ride height gets borked. The other option was to snag a set of back shocks from my busted up T2.
I will probably just build a tab for the RPM arm for my basher.
I'm not gonna put em on the Original T (OT) I just feel bad messing it up.
Gonna replace it and clean this one up and shelve it because it hurts my heart to beat on it.
I moved on to a RC10GTE basher I'm building.

[juicedcoupe]

Anybody mind checking the length of the 80492 arms, pin to pin?


I'm collecting parts for a build and trying to decide between these and the Klein arms.

[juicedcoupe]

Anybody mind checking the length of the 80492 arms, pin to pin?

I went ahead and bought some. By my measurements, I see ~71mm.


Anyway. For my project, I wanted hex fronts. I went with Traxxas parts, as they are narrower than AE and more readily available.

The overall width comes in just shy of 250mm. With 5mm hexes, the hex to hex width is 230mm.

I think that B5 offset wheels should work. Maybe I'll experiment with different hexes as well.

BTW, those are RPM caster blocks, modified to fit. Regular Bandit or Drag Slash parts should be a direct fit.

[juicedcoupe]

Here is the above setup, pieced together with some Avid B5 wheels and random hardware.

I'm measuring right at 248mm to the edge of the wheels.

It won't allow full steering lock with any compression but it probably doesn't need that much anyway. A set of narrow (carpet) wheels would probably help as well.

[Jeep-Power]

BTW, those are RPM caster blocks, modified to fit. Regular Bandit or Drag Slash parts should be a direct fit.

You have a part # on them, by chance?

I am building an rc10 carpet car and want to run front hexes --

[juicedcoupe]

BTW, those are RPM caster blocks, modified to fit. Regular Bandit or Drag Slash parts should be a direct fit.

You have a part # on them, by chance?

I am building an rc10 carpet car and want to run front hexes --

They are just replacement parts for a Traxxas Slash, Rustler, or Stampede. The lower hinge pin hole is opened up to 1/8" and the caster blocks are clearanced for the control arms.

The caster blocks for a Traxxas Bandit are similar. But they already have 1/8" hinge pins and more room.


Having said that, the Custom Works hex conversion might be a better option. The Traxxas parts will result in a narrower track width when used with standard RC10 control arms.

[Jeep-Power]

Having said that, the Custom Works hex conversion might be a better option. The Traxxas parts will result in a narrower track width when used with standard RC10 control arms.

I've got it set up with the CW hex conversion now. With the B6.3 JC rims, it is more than a quarter inch over width. The rear is about the same, But that's another story (b2 arms & b44 blocks)

All that is to say that having some front hex conversion that takes a little bit more off the width might be perfect. Which one is narrower, the bandit or the slash?

[juicedcoupe]

Which one is narrower, the bandit or the slash?

The caster blocks are about the same. The hex thickness can be varied.

Maybe look at this.

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=47227