How do you get and keep an RC10 running?

[JosephS]

Hey all,
With the Re-re now well behind us and the 40th anniversary of the rc10 coming up soon I am trying to get my rc10 running. I have the the B stamp black chassis stealth car that came out before the Team car.

I'm not looking to keep things mint or even stock, just running and I need some tips.

How do I keep my existing parts from shattering? Each time I get my car together and try to give it a low power shake down something breaks. I had a rear arm mount break, a front arm and today a ballcup.

What parts should I be building a stockpile of?
What's broken or worn out most?
What's hardest to replace?


I've taken to going to local hobby stores and buying every ASC part in the 6000 range that is fine at MSRP but I can't do that at e-bay prices.

Are there any ball-stud/ball cup replacements that fit in the original nylon parts? I'm worried about dropping in ballstuds larger then the original ones and splitting nylon.

thanks all

[juicedcoupe]

Old nylon losses its moisture over time and becomes brittle. You can rehydrate it in water but it does take time.

You can still buy correct size ball studs and cups. Schumacher and Custom Works make the correct size studs, as well as Lunsford ($$$).

Team Associated recently discontinued the replacement ball cups but you might still find some. The 7230 for a B3 will work but they have a longer body and fit a little loose.

RPM ends can be used for the outer points where there is more room.

For the rear, I prefer a regular captured ball link. Cheap Traxxas 1942 ends fit well and are plenty strong. If you still use dogbones, they reduce the chance of loosing one.

About the only original part that I don't really like is the servo saver/bellcrank setup. But there are still several options available for that.


Don't run the diff too loose. Original Stealth diff gears are kinda hard to find (priced reasonably) right now.

[Synergy]

I have the the B stamp black chassis stealth car that came out before the Team car.

Pardon my lack of knowledge but which version would this be, I’m still learning and I’ve never heard of this one before?

[JosephS]

I'm not sure.
Came with:
full white nylon
black b-stamp,
bearings
stealth v1
2.0 sized 3 piece white wheels
Top loaded grey body shocks with black caps.
The body was team car style.

It’s rare but not in the cool way. I don’t see it often on lists.
The box looks like the CE box but the pictures match the black chassis and there is a printed mention of the stealth.

[JosephS]

Old nylon losses its moisture over time and becomes brittle. You can rehydrate it in water but it does take time.

You can still buy correct size ball studs and cups. Schumacher and Custom Works make the correct size studs, as well as Lunsford ($$$).

Team Associated recently discontinued the replacement ball cups but you might still find some. The 7230 for a B3 will work but they have a longer body and fit a little loose.

RPM ends can be used for the outer points where there is more room.

For the rear, I prefer a regular captured ball link. Cheap Traxxas 1942 ends fit well and are plenty strong. If you still use dogbones, they reduce the chance of loosing one.

About the only original part that I don't really like is the servo saver/bellcrank setup. But there are still several options available for that.


Don't run the diff too loose. Original Stealth diff gears are kinda hard to find (priced reasonably) right now.

Rehydration sounds just like what my car may need. How is it done? Do I just disassemble it and drop the parts in a bucket for a week? Do I need to boil them?

I have a few after market parts and one of them is a bell crank. I don’t know the brand but it’s not rpm and it’s been just great. I have the original parts still in the box on the tree.

I saw the Lunsford ball studs ones are listed as 4.3 mm does that sound right? Are all Schumacher balls and ends going to work?

I was actually not worried about the diff gear I saw a company called d-hawk made an aluminum one for $20. I have a few spare 2.25 gears as well. I am still on the one from the kit. How often do they break?

I am worried about the diff rings. I just eBayed a pair for a reasonable price, but that was the last reasonable one. Is there an aftermarket source for rings?

I am also a bit concerned about the idler gear as the one re-re is not compatible with my version of stealth.

I was happy to find that the dog ones from amazon
Dogbone Universal Drive Joint Cup Shaft 61mm Long Iron Black for RC Hobby Model Car HPI HSP,COJOYS,4PCS

Work in my kit, though I need dogbone springs and the nylon spacers

I have a b4 top shaft running the avid gears and slipper.
What is needed to get on standard modern spurs and slipper.

[juicedcoupe]

Simply soaking them in water for several days will work. Mild heat (like a crock pot on low) might speed up the process but I wouldn't boil them.

All the Schumacher ones that I've tried fit. It's also worth noting that their ball studs use a M3 thread, which is slightly larger than the original 4-40. And 4.3mm is the same size as the original 0.17".

I prefer nylon gears, as the potential for damage is less. If you run the diff too loose, it can slip and get hot. Slippage and heat have the potential to cause damage.

I've got a idle gear from Dynotech to try but haven't gotten around to it. I'll let you know.

I don't know of any other diff rings that fit. I'm still working from a stash that I bought a few years ago.

The dogbones on Amazon do fit but they are sloppy (small OD). Factory Works still sells the correct ones. Find GoMachV on here or Factory Works on ebay.

The B4 slipper is about as modern as it gets. I've heard of some people modifying other types to fit, but it was far from a direct fit.

Springs this size fit perfect. And a small o ring will work in place of the spacer.

[juicedcoupe]

Quick follow up.

The Dynotech #9038 "GT Idler Gear" is a perfect fit on non-Worlds Stealth transmissions.

I believe that you can also use the Words idle gear assembly (gear, axle, and bearings) in non-Worlds cases as well. You'd just have an extra set of bearings.

[JosephS]

Quick follow up.

The Dynotech #9038 "GT Idler Gear" is a perfect fit on non-Worlds Stealth transmissions.

I believe that you can also use the Words idle gear assembly (gear, axle, and bearings) in non-Worlds cases as well. You'd just have an extra set of bearings.

Thank you for the idler gear information. I may pick one up just in case I ever need it.

I'd want to experiment with the worlds gears. The stealth housing on the re-release does not properly fit the gears from the v1 stealth I have. I'll have to check exactly why, but I believe the ideler gear is the difference between the 2. I'll have to disassemble my transmission, but I think one had the bearings in the case with a fixed axle and the other had the axle fixed to the case and the bearings in the idler.

[JosephS]

I have the the B stamp black chassis stealth car that came out before the Team car.

Pardon my lack of knowledge but which version would this be, I’m still learning and I’ve never heard of this one before?

The box model is 6035 "Rc10 Team Car"

[juicedcoupe]

The stealth housing on the re-release does not properly fit the gears from the v1 stealth I have. I'll have to check exactly why, but I believe the ideler gear is the difference between the 2. I'll have to disassemble my transmission, but I think one had the bearings in the case with a fixed axle and the other had the axle fixed to the case and the bearings in the idler.

The Stealth housing on the re-re Worlds car was known to have fitment issues, even with the gears that came with it.

[JosephS]

The Stealth housing on the re-re Worlds car was known to have fitment issues, even with the gears that came with it.

That's a bummer.

[juicedcoupe]

But you are correct about the idle gear. The Worlds car had the bearings in the gear, with a separate axle. Non-Worlds cars and 10T trucks had a one piece gear with bearings in the housing.

[mikea96]

I'm not sure.
Came with:
full white nylon
black b-stamp,
bearings
stealth v1
2.0 sized 3 piece white wheels
Top loaded grey body shocks with black caps.
The body was team car style.

It’s rare but not in the cool way. I don’t see it often on lists.
The box looks like the CE box but the pictures match the black chassis and there is a printed mention of the stealth.

That is the team car. There was no black chassis car before the team car.

[mikea96]

But you are correct about the idle gear. The Worlds car had the bearings in the gear, with a separate axle. Non-Worlds cars and 10T trucks had a one piece gear with bearings in the housing.

The world's re-re had the bearings in the idler gear but original worlds had the idler gear with shaft and bearings mounted in the case.

[juicedcoupe]

But you are correct about the idle gear. The Worlds car had the bearings in the gear, with a separate axle. Non-Worlds cars and 10T trucks had a one piece gear with bearings in the housing.

The world's re-re had the bearings in the idler gear but original worlds had the idler gear with shaft and bearings mounted in the case.

Yeah, all this junk runs together over time.