A-Stamp cleanup/rebuild

[GoMachV]

For 3/16 axles you can use their B2/B3 wheel set. The fronts for those use the 3/16x3/8 unflanged bearings like the worlds car and CE cars.

[NomadRacer]

I believe the wheels for the Associated B2/3 have 3/16" axle rear. https://www.jcracingproducts.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=18&product_id=259

The tires are Pro-Line Dirt Hawgs. They are a little taller in the sidewall than dirt/carpet 2.2 tires.

Rears: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pro-Line-1071-00-Dirt-Hawg-I-2-2-Fr-Re-Buggy-2/131984727723?hash=item1ebae71eab:g:wyoAAOSwdnZaAkMY

Fronts: They seem hard to find right now (in the USA). Heres some in Australia with shipping costing more than the price of the tire
https://www.ebay.com/itm/PROLINE-DIRT-HAWG-III-2-WD-WIDE-FR-TYRES-2PCS-PR1073-00/182273171993?hash=item2a7053e219:g:dbIAAOSw-IVbc7oG

If you really want them, get with some of the guys here on the forum from "downunder". They might be able to help you.

[jeepnut24]

Wow, thanks again for all the help... This is turning into a build more than a clean and run... But I can't help it. Two sets of wheels ordered. Still not sure on what tires to run.

Here is the cleaned up tub. See if you can spot the tell tale signs of grey epoxy... AKA JB Weld.. Not to mention short of welding up the back end, I don't think this one will ever be getting a Stealth transmission. All of the drilled holes are off. All 6 for the battery cup, and all 4 for the stealth trans.

Oh and now I just want to polish the thing...

[XLR8]

Oh, I've seen worse -- much worse. I agree, it's probably best to stay with a 6-gear with this tub unless you're able to have those wonky holes welded and drilled in the right location. Still, it's not that bad. How's the bottom side?

[jeepnut24]

The bottom is in pretty good shape. I was sad to see the poorly aligned holes, but going with the Six gear will be fun. It came pretty much clean and rebuilt with bearings. So a quick clean and some fresh grease and I'm going to run it. Could be a touch smoother, but it will work.

Separate question for the experts. Is there any good ways to turn this into a long travel suspension? Maybe some extra ride height? I noticed these factory arms have a travel limiter molded into them.

[XLR8]

You could re-position the shock mounts and whittle away the stops that are molded into the arms to provide more droop. You'll want be cautious though because droop in the rear may then be limited by the dog bones. Too much down travel and they could bind and possibly break an axle, a bone or an outdrive.

[jeepnut24]

You could re-position the shock mounts and whittle away the stops that are molded into the arms to provide more droop. You'll want be cautious though because droop in the rear may then be limited by the dog bones. Too much down travel and they could bind and possibly break an axle, a bone or an outdrive.

Ok, so I started mocking things up... The tub doesn't seem to be cut enough to let the rear arms droop in the short wheelbase position? Should I file both sides? This is without mods to the arm? This is the aluminum right below the rear bulkhead screws to the tub. My team car doesn't seem to have this problem.


Oh and what are the part numbers for replacement turnbuckles? This is for the camber links. It currently has WAY too much positive camber. LOL The ones that came with the car are too long, chopped up, and don't have enough thread to shorten them. I would like something other than all-thread, and I can't find the "official" re-re parts either. I would prefer some that I can adjust more easily.

[XLR8]

First, I guess it would be a good idea to confirm that you have the rear arm mounts on the correct side (it is possible to switch them and I have done this before). When viewing the car from the side, the front of the arm should be higher than the rear.
I've never personally done this before but I guess you could file some material away from each side of the tub to gain some clearance and allow the arms greater droop. Or, increase the notch in the arms.

I can't tell from your photos which hole in the rear bulkhead the camber ballstuds are installed in but I've checked the original RC10 manual and it calls for them to be installed in the innermost and top holes. Perhaps if yours have been installed in another hole this might explain your positive camber problem. The original RC10 already uses the shortest rear camber link (6256 1.25"). For reference, the Worlds, CE, and possibly Graphite and Team cars use an even longer link (Worlds re-re uses 6264 1.375") but their ballstuds are also mounted farther inboard (directly under the wing tubes). Maybe the Dual Sport uses links that are shorter than 1.25" but I'm just speculating (I've no experience with that version).

[jeepnut24]

Pictures being worth a thousand words and all...


So my issue in the front, I swapped the shock towers over to the older style. It doesn't have the same inner hole as the newer style shock tower, so the old turnbuckles don't match up. The ones that came with the car are "setup" cut down to match the newer style tower.

As for the back. I adjusted them to match my team car, and all is good. This time when I swapped out the bulkhead, the inner holes weren't in the same locations.

Now for picture of the interference with the arms and the tub. As you can see, if I insert the front phillips screw, its even worse interference. I double checked the inner mounts, and Left is left and right is right.

[scr8p]

The majority of the A stamps had the 1st series of rear bulkhead that would not allow the forward placement of the rear arm mount (unless you notched the bulkhead yourself). After the change to the 2nd series bulkhead which allowed the forward placement, the tub was clearanced in those corners.

So, you can either clearance the tub yourself, run the arms to the rear, or you could get the newer rear arms and inner hinge pins which are shorter in that area.

[RCveteran]

The majority of the A stamps had the 1st series of rear bulkhead that would not allow the forward placement of the rear arm mount (unless you notched the bulkhead yourself). After the change to the 2nd series bulkhead which allowed the forward placement, the tub was clearanced in those corners.

So, you can either clearance the tub yourself, run the arms to the rear, or you could get the newer rear arms and inner hinge pins which are shorter in that area.

Is there anything you don't know about RC10's?

[scr8p]

I don't know everything, but I do have a fairly decent database between the ears.

[jwscab]

here's when he noticed it and documented it:

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=28308&p=290739&hilit=stamp+arm+clearance#p290739

[jeepnut24]

Well that sounds like the case, and I bet it's hard to find an early bulkhead... long wheelbase it is I guess

[jwscab]

It's not terribly difficult to find the earlier bulkhead. That bulkhead isn't necessary in order to use long wheelbase. If the chassis isn't pristine and your like the short wheelbase, look at the link I provided and trim your chassis to match.