Building a brushless RC10GT

[RC10th]

Thanks Todd, It's coming along. That's basically what I have planned, you could never use the full gear ratio range on that plate with mod motors so I was going to attach a mount to the front lower motor slot.

Flex isn't too much of a concern (unless excessive) as the motor plate is bolted directly to the gearbox. If it was mounted to the chassis that's a totally different story.


I flipped the servo over and mounted and wired the rest of the electronics. It all powered up ok, the motor is a 6.5T and ESC was set to 8* boost and 30* of turbo (previous car). I doubt it would will ever get to turbo on a med-small sized track but it will be fun trying.

[green510]

Those lipo wires are super neat!

[RC10th]

Thanks, I try to make things as neat as I can sometimes I fail miserably

[romulus22]

Flex isn't too much of a concern (unless excessive) as the motor plate is bolted directly to the gearbox. If it was mounted to the chassis that's a totally different story.

As for the flex I was thinking just to keep the suspension consistent. As for the motor fixed to the trans. I did have a problem with the plate bending and losing my gear mesh. But my motor took a direct hit itself. I'm not sure if the motor plate will flex on a hard wreck or not.

Truck is looking good though. Everything is nice and low. Looking forward to the paint job on the old school body.

[Chewbacca]

nice and CLEAN build,how does she handle?

[RC10th]

Sadly I don't know yet, It's still sitting on the floor just the same. I was waiting on shocks then and I'm still waiting on a rear pair now

I'll finish it one day as life hasn't been too kind to me these past few months


Edit, I just noticed you were from Fremont. Have you been around the RC circle there long (HobbyTown USA, Fremont RC Raceway and NorCal Hobbies?)

[Chewbacca]

So for no track time.

I've been to Sheldon's hobbies, and wanted to stop by NorCal Race track one day.

[RC10th]

Fawk.... Finally broke down and bought the cheapest pair of rear shocks for this off ebay which ended up being $60 AUD shipped.

Talk about bend over and suck it up

[RC10th]

I also just ordered the last few remaining parts needed to finish it. Luckily I was able to find a set of used front shock bodies and alloy caps amongst my parts so I don't have to crack open my new set. They are scratched a bit around the "nut" part of the body but they will do. I also finally decided on a paint job. Hopefully this will be drivable in a couple of weeks.

[PerryCodes]

Wow - VERY NICE! I'm starting my RC10GTe build very soon and this will be a nice one to base my build on!

One thing I can definitely suggest for your shocks are the B4.1 12mm Spring Collar Adapters from Avid. They allow you to use the V2 threaded bodies with 12mm big bore springs!

detail_437_AV1014-SpringCollarAdapters.jpg (26.41 KiB) Viewed 2623 times

detail_437_AV1014-SpringCollarAdapters.jpg (26.41 KiB) Viewed 2623 times

Here's what they look like installed...

[PerryCodes]

Got a question... Does anyone feel like there is a benefit to leaving the GT brake installed in addition to the brake provided by the ESC/motor?

And do you still have any concerns re: that Dynotech motor mount? I had purchased both the motor mount and esc shelf from Dynotech and the tranny brace from GPM. It's fairly well known that GPM uses garbage-quality aluminum, so I'm not holding by breath on that one... while hoping something better pops up on eBay at some point. I did, however, have my hopes up for that motor mount! What about it do you not like?

Regards ~ Jason

[klavy69]

Got a question... Does anyone feel like there is a benefit to leaving the GT brake installed in addition to the brake provided by the ESC/motor?

Regards ~ Jason

I see no reason to keep the brake assy myself personally. I don't know if it will work with the dynotech motor mount and then you'll have to have room for the servo/linkage. Don't know if it would be feasible with all the extra steps and not enough real estate to work with but thats just me.

I think the dynotech motor mount is OK. Seems to work with no issue. Only issue is it doesn't allow for a gear cover which is a necessity if you have a little gravel action like I do.

As far as the GPM tranny brace it will work out just fine for you. I've used them in the past and have a couple yet. I take the spacers they provide with it and glue them to the brace though so it acts like the trinity brace when I take it on and off so I don't lose the spacers. Also, without the brake/throttle servo pulling on the truck the brace isn't as vital on these as with gas motor. Still needed but not for the same reasons as originally

This all being just my opinion though so hope the rest of these guys chime in. Right off the top of my head I know Theytookmythumbs and RC10th both have threads in here on their own conversions.

Todd

[RC10th]

I wanted to originally use the Ghea Big Bore collars but upon testing found you couldn't use big bore springs as they fouled on the rear camber link.

I wouldn't use the GT brake in conjunction with an electric conversion, just make sure you put a shim between the mount and transmission when you remove the bracket.

I wasn't happy with the fact that the Dynotech mount doesn’t bolt to the chassis, it just hangs off the transmission. Like Todd pointed out earlier if you got T-boned hard enough or had a big side impact you could bend the plate. You can't use a motor that has a snout with the Dynotech mount without a spacer, I had to use a motor spacer to get my motor to bolt up square. Another thing I didn't like is you can't use the slightly larger 550 sized can motors, ie some short course motors.

The GPM trans brace is pretty average but does the trick, anything is better then the stock plastic brace. I would have preferred to use the Trinity mount but couldn't find one at the time. I couldn't stand the silver beveled edge on the GPM piece so I flipped it over and it actually looks pretty good.

[PerryCodes]

I'm using big bore springs successfully... No problem at all with the rear camber links. It's close, but completely clears. Had it running a week ago, but didn't wait for enough snow to melt! Took it apart to clean things up, but I'll post up full pics when I've got it back together.

One thing is FOR SURE... having the spring be close to the rear camber links is a million times better than the rubbing you get with stock springs/bodies. That's what we call in the software world - a defect.

Found one I had taken earlier, but I'll take some close-ups of the rear...

[RC10th]

You are probably correct on the big bore springs and the GT. The issue I had was with a flipped 10T gearbox and bulkhead, so the dimensions are likely different. I think the big bore springs on the smaller shocks is a huge improvement.

I finally received my $60 rear shocks in the mail today so I can at least get them built up. Just waiting on the parts to arrive so I can rebuild the front shocks.