Building a brushless RC10GT

[klavy69]

, or the damper hobby ebay special thing.

dammit...I knew I was forgetting something

[RC10th]

This has been on the backburner but I managed to get a little bit done. This is where I'm up to at the moment, just need to get a motor to pick a final location for the batteries.

I'm not terribly impressed with the Dynotech mount, it could have been made so much better.

[RC10th]

I got my ebay special Damper Hobby/ GPM trans brace in the mail today. I was quite surprised with it really, it wasn't as bad as I thought. It's also only machine chamfered on one side so flipping it over makes it look not too bad once installed.

I just need to buy shocks for this truck then the rolling chassis is pretty much done. I will eventually order Fiber-lyte shock towers (narrow) to replace the stock ones, this will allow me to run an early style body.

[RC10th]

I was thinking of something simple like this photo that I pinched from this site somewhere. Easy to paint and very 90's.

[RC10th]

What is happening here?

[THUNDERSTRIKE1]

Shortening wheelbase and weight transfer maybe.DON

[RC10th]

Don is semi correct - we will see how the shorter wheel base helps with the mid mount conversion (or if it makes it worse )

I finally poked and countersunk the remaining holes, I always tend to mess up one or two holes but everything came out perfect this time. I'm surprised all the tranny holes were in "clean" locations.

We can finally put the truck together for the last time..... The really cool thing is the short holes exactly match the shorter tub GT meaning short bodies can be used. You can also use short bodies with the longer FT wheelbase if you wish, or move it all back to the FT position and use longer bodies. Or... you could easily convert it all back to GT stuff and run it as a gas truck.

As I said earlier the Dynotech mount isn't the best designed mount. I had to use a 1/8" motor spacer to get the motor to fit, this was due to the slightly raised nose on the motor can (wouldn't sit flush). The other issue is a lack of chassis bracing, you can't use the FT chassis brace with the mount. I will try to make a brace that bolts to the mount if there is room.

[RC10th]

Saddle pack holders all bolted in. They are slighly spaced to raise them above the chassis sides. I think they came out well, It was the cleanest design I could come up with. I may also make a battery stop so you could also run a shorty pack eventually, this will depend on how well the truck performs when it hits the track.

Here's the overall layout with all electronics except the ESC installed. Luckily everything fit well and seems to be placed well.

[RC10th]

Mounted suspension and mounted the body.

Getting there....... Hopefully it looks good.

[bully]

That looks awesome mate...

[green510]

Awesome!

May I ask what those saddle pack holders are out of?
B44.1? and their posts?

[RC10th]

Thanks guys.

They are indeed B44.1 cradles, good eye. The posts and straps are all B44.1 as well. The B44.2 cradles are more versatile but I liked the full carbon look, plus the molded cradles from the 44.2 would have looked funny if I spaced them up.

I think I need to mirror the servo onto the other side of the chassis as it suits the layout of the ESC I want to use better.

[green510]

Yep the carbon cradles looks great!

I wonder if they would be a direct fit where my 44.2 plastic cradles reside on my b3 carbon project.

[RC10th]

I dont think they will fit as the footprint is different. The 44.2 cradles are slightly longer with a little plastic spacer, these hug the saddle pack.

[romulus22]

Truck is looking good. Just an idea to help stiffen the rear of the chassis. When I was using that motor mount on a car I had I countersunk the back side, motor side, lower screw slot on the front. Made a small square delrin block to attach the motor plate to the chassis. Not sure how stiff that chassis is but an idea for you.