RC10T Indoor Clay Track setup
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RC10T Indoor Clay Track setup
Anyone have a good base starting point for these vintage trucks on indoor clay? The track is usually damp but can get dry as the day goes on. When I was practicing I could't figure out the rear. I tried blue, silver and black springs. I was running a 8.5 brushless motor.
- RC10th
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Re: RC10T Indoor Clay Track setup
Changing the steering bellcranks to T2/GT is a must in my opinion. It's a bit of fiddling around but is needed.
I was old school - when old school wasn't cool !
Re: RC10T Indoor Clay Track setup
This the setup I have been running on my RC10T in the 17.5 class at my local track OC/RC. It's indoor medium to high bite clay. I am running AE T4.1 big bores and the B4 top shaft slipper mod, but other then that it's fairly stock. Also the front shock tower is the carbon fiber version with only 2 upper shock mount holes.
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Javier -
RC10 Shelfer, RC10 Worlds Car Runner, RC10T Shelfer, RC10T2 Runner, SC18, JConcepts BJ4, B5M and counting.
RC10T WOIN Build http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=32541
RC10 Shelfer, RC10 Worlds Car Runner, RC10T Shelfer, RC10T2 Runner, SC18, JConcepts BJ4, B5M and counting.
RC10T WOIN Build http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=32541
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Re: RC10T Indoor Clay Track setup
Is there any threads documenting this change?RC10th wrote:Changing the steering bellcranks to T2/GT is a must in my opinion. It's a bit of fiddling around but is needed.
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Re: RC10T Indoor Clay Track setup
janaya,
I have tried on mulitple computers to click your setup and it won't expand. It is a little small for me to read.
I have tried on mulitple computers to click your setup and it won't expand. It is a little small for me to read.
Re: RC10T Indoor Clay Track setup
PM me and I can send it to you as a PDF or I'll try and post it up as a PDF tomorrow.
Javier -
RC10 Shelfer, RC10 Worlds Car Runner, RC10T Shelfer, RC10T2 Runner, SC18, JConcepts BJ4, B5M and counting.
RC10T WOIN Build http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=32541
RC10 Shelfer, RC10 Worlds Car Runner, RC10T Shelfer, RC10T2 Runner, SC18, JConcepts BJ4, B5M and counting.
RC10T WOIN Build http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=32541
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Re: RC10T Indoor Clay Track setup
Hi Guys, Hi Pumpkinfish,
I was planning to change my 10T to the Worlds steering because I have read previously that the steering bell cranks are too long and cause erratic steering.
When I compare my buggy to my truck, the buggy is so much more precise and I too believe the steering bell cranks are too long.
As RC10th said the T2 and GT went to a worlds type bell cranks.
To do the mods you will need, and again I have not done it but plan to try it in the future.
2 x Asc6931 8-32 x 1/4" Flat Head Screws to replace you steering bell crank long bolts. $2.00 for 6
2 x Asc6241 8/32 x 1/2 Flat Head Screws in the forward holes where the buggy bell cranks would bolt. $3.69 for 6
1 x Asc6254 Worlds steering bellcranks. $5.49 plastics only ( all parts available Tower Hobbies)
4 x Flanged Bearings for the worlds bell crank I am not sure of the size will try to find out (Avid Bearings) $1.00 each could be 1/4 x 3/8 x 1/8?
This should tighten up the steering and stop the truck from wandering around under power.
Cheers, Dave.
I was planning to change my 10T to the Worlds steering because I have read previously that the steering bell cranks are too long and cause erratic steering.
When I compare my buggy to my truck, the buggy is so much more precise and I too believe the steering bell cranks are too long.
As RC10th said the T2 and GT went to a worlds type bell cranks.
To do the mods you will need, and again I have not done it but plan to try it in the future.
2 x Asc6931 8-32 x 1/4" Flat Head Screws to replace you steering bell crank long bolts. $2.00 for 6
2 x Asc6241 8/32 x 1/2 Flat Head Screws in the forward holes where the buggy bell cranks would bolt. $3.69 for 6
1 x Asc6254 Worlds steering bellcranks. $5.49 plastics only ( all parts available Tower Hobbies)
4 x Flanged Bearings for the worlds bell crank I am not sure of the size will try to find out (Avid Bearings) $1.00 each could be 1/4 x 3/8 x 1/8?
This should tighten up the steering and stop the truck from wandering around under power.
Cheers, Dave.
- RC10th
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Re: RC10T Indoor Clay Track setup
Dave hit the nail on the head, the 10T bellcranks are too vauge. T2/GT or worlds bellcranks will definately tighten up the steering and make it more precise.
I would use 8/32 button head screws instead of countersunk screws for the bellcranks though.
I would use 8/32 button head screws instead of countersunk screws for the bellcranks though.
I was old school - when old school wasn't cool !
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Re: RC10T Indoor Clay Track setup
Hi guys, Hi RC10th,
You are right I just checked, the nose plate is not counter sunk, if you have a counter sinking bit then
the gold screws might still work.
The next time I place an order to Tower Hobbies I will be able to try this mod myself.
Again mine gets really squirrely under power, I suppose that's because we have brush less power
houses now?
Cheers, Dave.
You are right I just checked, the nose plate is not counter sunk, if you have a counter sinking bit then
the gold screws might still work.
The next time I place an order to Tower Hobbies I will be able to try this mod myself.
Again mine gets really squirrely under power, I suppose that's because we have brush less power
houses now?
Cheers, Dave.
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- Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2013 8:01 am
- Location: Schwenksville, PA
Re: RC10T Indoor Clay Track setup
Am I using the standard truck steering holes or the ones in front of them? I run my truck with the nose in the long position.
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Re: RC10T Indoor Clay Track setup
Hi Guys,
The small screws fill the holes where your bell cranks are currently bolted.
The longer gold aluminum screws go in the two forward holes where the buggy bell cranks bolt to.
You do not need to move the front nose plate from its current long position.
This is an idea I have had for a while and plan to try it myself as soon as I can afford to place an
order with Tower Hobbies.
Cheers, Dave.
The small screws fill the holes where your bell cranks are currently bolted.
The longer gold aluminum screws go in the two forward holes where the buggy bell cranks bolt to.
You do not need to move the front nose plate from its current long position.
This is an idea I have had for a while and plan to try it myself as soon as I can afford to place an
order with Tower Hobbies.
Cheers, Dave.
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