Coelacanth wrote:You're on a posting binge, H.P. However, I don't think some of these really belong on this forum; especially not the Redcat.
HI!... Well under the heading it does say : "The place to go when it doesn't fit anywhere else.."
I didn't see anywhere else it could go.
RCTech.net perhaps? This is a vintage RC forum...what would it become like if everybody started posting tons of topics on every current car out there, and all the clones like the Redcats, HSP's, New Brights, etc.?
It'd look a lot like RCTech.net. I'm sure the forum admins & mods don't want this vintage RC forum to become that.
The only reason I know anything about Caster Fusions is because the battery holders for the LiPos seem to work really well for Tamiya 801X/XT Electric Conversions.
I miss brushed motors in that hazy, everything seemed better when I was a kid, kind of way.
knixdad wrote:The only reason I know anything about Caster Fusions is because the battery holders for the LiPos seem to work really well for Tamiya 801X/XT Electric Conversions.
HI!... I build custom aluminum battery trays. If your interested LMK.
DR STATIC wrote:The shrink wrap on the driveshafts? Is that to keep dirt out of the end couplings? And then post these images on RCTech, they would enjoy them too.
I tried the search feature, but I guess I was typing in the correct wording. I have a vintage gold tub running stock. 30* casters and I'd like to try out some 25* but can't seem to find any. I know I can use B4 blocks but which ones will give me 25*...
Hello all,
It seems to be generally agreed that the long-arm Rc10 does best with 25 degrees of caster. Unfortunately, the 25 degree caster blocks are discontinued and hard to find. There's currrently one set on ebay, $30 shipped. Ouch.
What's the...
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Nobody?
Maybe I'll just order the 30d blocks and see how they work for me.
Edit: Is there any way to get proper track with b4 casters and JC Racing wheels, or will I need new wheels?
I may just go ahead and try the Custom Works caster blocks....
prolly just spent the last 2 hours tweeking them just so I could have a clean launch that didnt pull either way and turned equally each way. This was after a differential, idle gear, top gear and bearing replacement in the full car.
Hello all,
I had my first failure today running my newly restored glod pan when a caster block broke. I did some looking and it looks like the car came with the 6213 15* blocks but doing more reading it looks like using the 6210 30* caster blocks...
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I just took apart the broken parts and it looks like the caster blocks are in fact 15* when lined up with a protractor.
Just going through the bits for my car and noticed these are different.
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double click test mouse
Is this the difference between 15 and 30 degree? They look the same angle, but different heights.
If so, which is which?
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but it's an injection molded part. :?:
Perhaps they come out of the mold as blanks, then the pin hole is added to establish the different caster angles?
Anyway, I've not seen this before.