What was old is… still old, but a lot newer (Update 2/20/11)

[vintage AE]

Vintage AE - exactly what i need, any more bottom veiw pics? i need to base where to start to cut the front kink up. would you happen to know the part number of that nose tube and nose tube post/mount (dunno whats its called ), and also Links to tower.... if any...

Scr8p - was this a modified Kick up? seems like its machine cut (perfect).and cant help but noticed , is this composite or Graphite? Sorry I;m not that too knowledgeable on RC10/T.

Checked my RC10 and it seems that it will need a very large modification on the front Kick up, just need to be sure before any dremel kiss my RC10...

Thanks.... Great thread!!!! indeed.

go for it, cut it up, I did, BUT mine was pretty scratched up so I wasn't worried about it.

here's my 10T buggy chop up, which you can see I didn't measure enough times before I drilled, bit the trimming went well...and it's a composite chassis


sorry, I don't have the nose tubes and mounts on this one and don't know the part numbers

[Soncho Ponza]

cool stuff to watch and read.

[scr8p]

Scr8p - was this a modified Kick up? seems like its machine cut (perfect).

yes, it was narrowed. i just used my dremel with a cut off disc.

[slow_jun]

scr8p- REALLY!!! WOW!!!! sure wish i have steady hands.... will definately cut it when i get my front bulkhead. will update you guys..

Thanks,

[corkyjohnson75]

Ive had these parts lying around for a while now time to put something together. gona cut the chassis down run to tubes through the middle so can some one tell me where i can get them thanks. got b4 cv's front rear hubs gona dye all plastics black not sure what to do with chassis parts yet . Mip tranny

[aeiou]

Hard to believe it's been nearly three years. My, how time flies.

I had the runner on my workbench for a little while now getting a good cleanup, lube and some new shoes. I made a couple of small changes, but it's basically unchanged from the original build. I replaced the rear shock tower with an Andy's graphite piece, mainly because I like how it matches the front. The biggest change was the wing mount. For that, I made a transmission brace out of some Andy's molded truck chassis material and attached some RPM 10T front body mounts. The B4 wing mount just didn't work well mounting it to the rear shock tower. This new setup works great and handles roll-overs much better.

For the shelfer, I had the chassis pieces anodized in FT blue and added some additional blue bits here and there. I'm still planning on adding FT turnbuckles and a couple of other little things, but it's finally looking close to the way I envisioned it way back when. My son suggested putting the Lohas wheels on there and I really like the way it looks. I think that's where they'll stay.

[JK Racing]

If you got those Lohas centers anno'd to match the chassis....just sayin'

both cars look great.

[RC10Sprinter]

Wow!!! Love the blue and the Lohas!!!!

[aeiou]

If you got those Lohas centers anno'd to match the chassis....just sayin'

both cars look great.

Thanks. I like the idea of the blue inserts.

[RC104ever]

This project started out as collaborative experiment with scr8p. The idea was to test various combinations of parts and figure out which ones would allow the use of those Delrin Klien arms he discovered at Dynotech, together with B4 CVDs, wheels, tires and other parts. Had some luck with it, so I figured I’d go ahead and build it the rest of the way. I thought it might be interesting to see just how much of a car could be built using the good old aluminum tub chassis and readily available parts, and how close it could get it to a modern buggy’s footprint and (dare I say) handling. Anyway, it was a fun project and I thought it worth sharing.

Out of all the parts used in this build, only the following can no longer be purchased new:
• Chassis, 10T nose piece and motor/trans mount
• Rear bulkhead
• Rear suspension mounts
• MIP steering kit

The final track and wheelbase are nearly identical to the B4. The RPM rear hubs were used to lift the axles up a bit (10T hubs work also). They were drilled out about 1/16” on the inside to push the axles out and to give it a little more clearance for the bones in the out drives. Shocks are 1.02” in the front and 1.18” rear.

Fibre-Lyte parts were added for show, but there are stock AE parts that’ll work in their place. This one turned out a little too pretty (imho ) to run, so a runner version is in the works…

Questions for you about the car:

1. Where can I get the battery strap and posts etc that you have here?
2. Is there any advantage to the longer front shock setup vs. the original car?
3. Where can I can the rear hub / CVD's and front knuckles etc?

Thanks!

[aeiou]

Questions for you about the car:

1. Where can I get the battery strap and posts etc that you have here?
2. Is there any advantage to the longer front shock setup vs. the original car?
3. Where can I can the rear hub / CVD's and front knuckles etc?

Thanks!

I think you'll find the answers to your questions, and a lot more, here:
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=10403

[RC104ever]

Thanks I will post my questions there!

[Charlie don't surf]

Just an observation, but before you post another question- read through that thread and I will bet 90% of you questions someone will have already asked and been answered there.

[RC104ever]

Thanks - I did read through the posts and found that it did answer some of my questions, but I guess I'm looking for some specifics.

[fredswain]

That's good advice. It seems that everytime I have a question someone gives me a link to where it has been covered already. This place is a treasure trove of information. You've just got to find it.