My old-new gold tub project...

[delsami]

i got my b44 cvds today!! i had most of the other stuff.. almoste ready to start!

almost got a 4.1 this will be more fun for sure.

[Eau Rouge]

Doug, what size shock shafts did you use? Great idea

Whoops, sorry, didn't see this question. They were stock rear RC10 gold shock shafts. They mic out to 2.25" (1.32" stroke shocks) in the rear and 1.50" (.56" stroke shocks) for the front. Any brand .125" diameter shock shafts would work.

Unobtanium shafts:

• Front: ASC6419 .56
  Rear: ASC6416 1.32

[JK Racing]

Thanks! I wasnt worried, I'm not to that part of my build yet..

[drbelleville]

Question: Do you have Part numbers for the shocks, or a chassis to reference where they came from?

Thank you

[Eau Rouge]

Question: Do you have Part numbers for the shocks, or a chassis to reference where they came from?

Straight off of a Kyosho RB5 SP/SP2, front and rear. You might be able to find sets second hand on eBay and RCtech now that the big bore shocks are starting to hit online stores and guys will be "upgrading."

KYOW5194V

• Kyosho Triple Cap Thread Front Shock Set (30mm)
  Front of RB5 SP
  USD $51.99
  Shock case: W5185-01V

KYOW5196V

• Kyosho Velvet Coated Triple Cap Shock Set (38mm)
  Front of RT5/SC
  Rear of RB5 SP
  USD $62.99
  Shock case: W5196-01V

I listed the shock case numbers, too, in case you manage to find standard original RB5 shocks and you want the Velvet (Teflone/hard anodized) shock bodies, too. They are pricey, but they are some of the best shocks on the market, period. The only other shocks out there that I would consider even close are the Tamiya TRF shocks found on the 201x.

Also, the springs on the Kyosho shocks are larger I.D., so Associated springs will NOT work on these shocks. They fit tight on the body and bind, and will cause more grief than good.

[drbelleville]

Question: Do you have Part numbers for the shocks, or a chassis to reference where they came from?

Straight off of a Kyosho RB5 SP/SP2, front and rear. You might be able to find sets second hand on eBay and RCtech now that the big bore shocks are starting to hit online stores and guys will be "upgrading."

KYOW5194V

• Kyosho Triple Cap Thread Front Shock Set (30mm)
  Front of RB5 SP
  USD $51.99
  Shock case: W5185-01V

KYOW5196V

• Kyosho Velvet Coated Triple Cap Shock Set (38mm)
  Front of RT5/SC
  Rear of RB5 SP
  USD $62.99
  Shock case: W5196-01V

I listed the shock case numbers, too, in case you manage to find standard original RB5 shocks and you want the Velvet (Teflone/hard anodized) shock bodies, too. They are pricey, but they are some of the best shocks on the market, period. The only other shocks out there that I would consider even close are the Tamiya TRF shocks found on the 201x.

Also, the springs on the Kyosho shocks are larger I.D., so Associated springs will NOT work on these shocks. They fit tight on the body and bind, and will cause more grief than good.

Just to follow up, is there an issue with teh shock body or springs rubbing on the Shock Towers as well? I see your rears are spaced out, is this why? Thank you for the info.

[Eau Rouge]

Just to follow up, is there an issue with teh shock body or springs rubbing on the Shock Towers as well? I see your rears are spaced out, is this why? Thank you for the info.

Kyosho shock inserts are not solid like Associated or balls like Losi, they have a "hat" on a ball insert for proper clearance and spacing on all of their mounting points (like the original Asscoaited nylon insert). They are mounted like that on all of my Kyosho cars, too. The shocks have a larger diameter than Associated shocks, so small .060 spacers would be used if you didn't have the proper shock inserts with the shocks. Not really a big deal, just locate the shocks where they need to be to have proper clearance for everything. It's not something I made a conscious effort to do—it's just the proper way to mount a shock.

Virtually zero modifications were made to the car or the shocks to mount on the RC10.

[Eau Rouge]

Here's the current update on the progress of this car...

Late last week, someone who had seen my Kyosho RB5 SP2 somewhere on teh internets fell in love with the car and offered me an obscene amount of cash for it, without the servo, PT and receiver, but including the ESC and motor. I had the car all ready to race this winter at a new local indoor track being built at this very moment, and I really didn't want to sell it. Though, money talks and new cars can always be bought again down the line if I decide I want another. I needed the cash for new decal production, so I sold it as fast as I could pack it up.

So now I am left with a couple of really rare European B4 conversions that I don't really want to race, and my retro RC10 old-new project that I had planned to race, but wasn't taking tremendously seriously before. I decided that this will be my main focus this winter, and if I need to, I can always build another B4 out of spare parts.

Now this car gets some serious attention paid to it, because it will be the priority car on track for me when I get a chance to race this winter.

First, the body. I had planned to either use a re-pop Mirage body or a stock Protech, but after trimming the Protech, I wasn't happy with the way it looked on the car (it'll soon have a quickie retro paint scheme shot on it and offered here on the forums cheap). I decided against the Mirage for various reasons, so I was left to solve the body problem again. I decided to see how bad of shape the old Proline Class 1 buggy body was that I got a long time ago from Jay (mr lexan). It was trimmed out previously by someone that Jay got it from, and not very well. Hacked up is a better term. Bodies should not be trimmed with scissors, forks, nail clippers or pruning sheers—ever. Don't drink and trim bodies, kids, you could lose an eye.

So I trimmed the body to fit the RC10 as we used to run them, and tried to remove as much of the problem areas as I could. Excess mounting and antenna holes made it complicated, but I did get it mounted in a pretty clean way. Using old school short TRC on road posts, I drilled a new hole in the left front pan for the nose mount, and in the rear I devised a horizontal plane mount for a second TRC post using another old school JG Kydex rear body mount that was originally intended to be up at the top of the shock tower. It works, looks good and is a pretty clean install, all things considered. I love the look of this body on an RC10, which is one of the reasons why I'd like to get reproductions made of a proper full new shell. We'll see how that goes.



The wing used on the car is a Losi XXX CR wing I had lying around the shop. I will probably use a standard straight Losi XX4we wing, as I think it looks a little better on the old car. The mounting struts for the wing are from the Kyosho RB5 and required 4 holes to be drilled in the Atlas rear shocktower. I already think these shocktowers are way too thin as it is (.080" and flexible), so I wasn't crazy about making it weaker, but we'll see how it works. I'm contemplating getting another rear and doubling them up for more strength, or maybe having Dynotech cut some towers from 3mm quasi carbon weave, but for now, this will have to do. There are also washers under the bottom mount screws to give the wing a bit of rake. It's a little high for my tastes, but the shocktower didn't give me many options. It still looks old school for this car, so I'm good with it where it is. I'll put options in another shocktower if I have them made.





Up front on the car, is the new body post and the addition of the personal transponder out of my former RB5. There is also the addition of a Spektrum 3500 micro 3-channel receiver and an antenna post. You don't really need an antenna in a car these days with 3.6" antennas, but I like the look of the stubby little mast sticking out of the buggy.





I have a few things still to change and add to the car, including the battery mount system. I have a different plan than what is in the car currently, and it should be pretty simple and clean, and allow for different size packs with relative ease. I also need to clean up the steering linkage somehow, as I still have a bind in the interior ball ends on full compression and full lock. I am using low profile ball ends and low profile ball links on the interior links, but it's not enough. Might have to seek out some different linkage, or maybe even draw up new bellcranks with a shorter reach to give me more room to use a thicker front shock tower down the road.

Also, the rear of the tub needs to be drilled for the Stealth, as it is currently only held in by the motor plate, back of the tub mounting points, and the tranny brace up top. It's actually a pretty stout mount, but it needs to be bolted to the chassis. A "B" chassis would make my life easier, but I haven't had the spare change to go find another chassis.

Looking for a small front bumper still, and it needs a new ESC, proper tires, paint, decals and a few other minor things, but it's getting close to being race-ready finally.

[Charlie don't surf]

What type of surface are you running on?

[Eau Rouge]

Going to be hard pack black dirt. Fine-sifted, and packs like modeling clay, only it's not clay. Should be similar to the new dirt at Trackside's new off road track.

[Charlie don't surf]

I had to add 1oz to the nose of my car regardless of what tires and set-up I tried- and are you having any weird bump steer in that front end arrangement?

[Eau Rouge]

Almost no bump-steer at all. There is a rising rate on the bump camber, though, but this front end is so limited, there isn't too much to be done on that, short of making a new shock tower with different inner link mount points. The only out of place (non-stock) linkage points are from the B4 steering knuckles. I do have short ball links on the inside and tall on the steering knuckles, though.

I figured there would be weight needed on the nose, which is why the PT is up there, and the heavy-duty looking steering linkage. I could have used titanium balls and axles up front, but it's all steel, and I will probably also use stainless steel 8-32 screws in the front bulkhead mounts, as well.

[Charlie don't surf]

Hmm, I had the same front end set-up but was having a really odd bump-in situation until I changed to a different bellcrank- Maybe just to used to Terminator steering geometry

[Eau Rouge]

See that's funny, because my Terminators that I had always had messed up bump-steer and Ackerman. I could never get it fully dialed out no matter what I shimmed or changed. But the cars worked, so I left them alone. This is considerably better than most RC10s I have seen, including my stocker 1987 Project.

[JK Racing]

I also need to clean up the steering linkage somehow, as I still have a bind in the interior ball ends on full compression and full lock. I am using low profile ball ends and low profile ball links on the interior links, but it's not enough.

Looking for a small front bumper still

I noticed the same thing with my Losi steering this weekend. I starting lightly shaving the ball cups, but stopped, unless I keep some shaved cups in my tool box, it would be a hard trackside fix.

RPM re-released the RC10 front bumper...that is my plan.