Mid Motor rc10 late model with a custom chassis
- lowrydesign
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Mid Motor rc10 late model with a custom chassis
it all started with a 15x8 .125 sheet of g10... and the want for an oval car.....
so i sketched out a few ideas and did a lil bit of research before settling on the final design.
one of the most important details that i wanted was to be able to shift the battery and move the front end if needed.
also i wanted the battery on the inside but still centered in the chassis, that's why i decided on the angled approach .
other than that its pretty straight forward....
-gt rear bulkhead with Factory Works tower w/ .71 shocks
-custom works front end w/ .51 shocks
and so the build begins with gluing the blueprint to the g10 and drilling/countersinking the holes... after all the important holes are made, its time to cut it out- i used a rotozip to cut out the chassis, works very well time for assembly!!! ---after getting it all together i have noticed that the front end is much wider than the rear end... i might have to use kline/worlds arms in the rear.....
so i sketched out a few ideas and did a lil bit of research before settling on the final design.
one of the most important details that i wanted was to be able to shift the battery and move the front end if needed.
also i wanted the battery on the inside but still centered in the chassis, that's why i decided on the angled approach .
other than that its pretty straight forward....
-gt rear bulkhead with Factory Works tower w/ .71 shocks
-custom works front end w/ .51 shocks
and so the build begins with gluing the blueprint to the g10 and drilling/countersinking the holes... after all the important holes are made, its time to cut it out- i used a rotozip to cut out the chassis, works very well time for assembly!!! ---after getting it all together i have noticed that the front end is much wider than the rear end... i might have to use kline/worlds arms in the rear.....
- Charlie don't surf
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Re: rc10 mid motor oval build, with custom chassis
Gregg, you can also narrow up the front end, and/or offset it by checking the dimensions
of the narrow holes on the shock tower, and making a row of "narrow" holes in
your chassis, then she should be square--
of the narrow holes on the shock tower, and making a row of "narrow" holes in
your chassis, then she should be square--
- PBR Allstar
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Re: rc10 mid motor oval build, with custom chassis
Greg,
You gonna put a latemodel body on this and come out to oakley???
You gonna put a latemodel body on this and come out to oakley???
- lowrydesign
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Re: rc10 mid motor oval build, with custom chassis
square as in with the rear wheels??Charlie don't surf wrote:Gregg, you can also narrow up the front end, and/or offset it by checking the dimensions
of the narrow holes on the shock tower, and making a row of "narrow" holes in
your chassis, then she should be square--
what about the tube that connects the arm mounts?? do i shorten or ditch it??
yea im even shooting for this friday.....PBR Allstar wrote:Greg,
You gonna put a latemodel body on this and come out to oakley???
ive got a body just tryng to figure out the front mount... then i can paint it!!
any suggestions guys??
thanks!!!!greazy wrote:looks great, nice work cant wait to see it done.
- SMOKE-DOG
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Re: rc10 mid motor oval build, with custom chassis
Nice looking project. Will be watching this one.
TC showroom: http://tamiyaclub.com/showroom.asp?id=18447
- PBR Allstar
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Re: rc10 mid motor oval build, with custom chassis
Greg, I made a small stainless plate to pick up the front mounting holes on the nose plate, then bent it parallel with the chassis. I followed that up with some 1/8" abs plastic "kydex" from tap plastics (about 15 bucks for 4 square feet). you could do something like this pretty easily, or if you want the easy way out, sheldon's hobbies has some RPM oval front bumper/body mounts in their ebay store.
Also, let me know if you need anything else to make it out. I should be there friday but might not make it til a little later. Oh, and for gearing, if you're going to run a 19T you want to be about 7.0 final or if you're running 10.5 you want to be about 6.0 final. I'm at 5.8 on my 10.5 when it's hooked and handling well, a little less gear seems to be more forgiving if you're still sorting out the car.
http://cgi.ebay.com/RPM-FRONT-OVAL-BODY-SUPPORT-70132_W0QQitemZ200216296420QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadio_Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2e9dd23be4&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262

Also, let me know if you need anything else to make it out. I should be there friday but might not make it til a little later. Oh, and for gearing, if you're going to run a 19T you want to be about 7.0 final or if you're running 10.5 you want to be about 6.0 final. I'm at 5.8 on my 10.5 when it's hooked and handling well, a little less gear seems to be more forgiving if you're still sorting out the car.
http://cgi.ebay.com/RPM-FRONT-OVAL-BODY-SUPPORT-70132_W0QQitemZ200216296420QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadio_Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2e9dd23be4&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262

- lowrydesign
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Re: rc10 mid motor oval build, with custom chassis
yea ive got a 10.5 im gunna use, do you have the chart to figure out final drives, i cant find mine....PBR Allstar wrote: Oh, and for gearing, if you're going to run a 19T you want to be about 7.0 final or if you're running 10.5 you want to be about 6.0 final. I'm at 5.8 on my 10.5 when it's hooked and handling well, a little less gear seems to be more forgiving if you're still sorting out the car.
what springs do i start with?? soft/hard at what corners......
thanks for the input.. i think i might have the mounting figured out.. we will see.....lol
- PBR Allstar
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Re: rc10 mid motor oval build, with custom chassis
Greg,
Here's the ratio calculator I use. The message board on this site is pretty up to date for Oakley info as well.
http://www.rcracing.com/Gear_Ratio_Program_1100.cfm
As far as springs go, you're shocks look to be pretty close to vertical so you're going to be a bit on the softer side of things, I can't quite tell what shocks you're running but I'll assume you're going to be using touring car springs? for oil I'd start in the 45-50 range up front on a #2 piston and 30-35 in the rear with a #2 piston. for springs I'd go a bit stiffer in the front than you are in the rear, way easier to deal with a tight race car that one that is swapping ends all the time. since your shocks are so upright you can start somewhere around 8LB RF, 6LB LF, 7LB LR 6LB RR. for springs I use associated springs for anything 12LB and over, and under that I usually use the wind tunnel style springs available from a few different places. RC4Less.com has good prices on them and usually in stock, I think they sell an assortment with 2 of every rate from 2LB to 12LB. If you're going to be stuck starting out on buggy type springs you're probably going to have to use fronts all around and if that's the case I'd run silvers (3.85LB) on the LF and RR, with blues (4.20LB) on the RF and LR, you'll have to come heavy with the preload to get them to work I imagine. I have a big box of springs with me at all times so I can help you out when I get there. All the other guys (with the exception of reject pack) are very helpful with sorting out cars (I mean helpful as in willingness,,, I'm still not sure any of us know what we're doing! LOL)
Here's the ratio calculator I use. The message board on this site is pretty up to date for Oakley info as well.
http://www.rcracing.com/Gear_Ratio_Program_1100.cfm
As far as springs go, you're shocks look to be pretty close to vertical so you're going to be a bit on the softer side of things, I can't quite tell what shocks you're running but I'll assume you're going to be using touring car springs? for oil I'd start in the 45-50 range up front on a #2 piston and 30-35 in the rear with a #2 piston. for springs I'd go a bit stiffer in the front than you are in the rear, way easier to deal with a tight race car that one that is swapping ends all the time. since your shocks are so upright you can start somewhere around 8LB RF, 6LB LF, 7LB LR 6LB RR. for springs I use associated springs for anything 12LB and over, and under that I usually use the wind tunnel style springs available from a few different places. RC4Less.com has good prices on them and usually in stock, I think they sell an assortment with 2 of every rate from 2LB to 12LB. If you're going to be stuck starting out on buggy type springs you're probably going to have to use fronts all around and if that's the case I'd run silvers (3.85LB) on the LF and RR, with blues (4.20LB) on the RF and LR, you'll have to come heavy with the preload to get them to work I imagine. I have a big box of springs with me at all times so I can help you out when I get there. All the other guys (with the exception of reject pack) are very helpful with sorting out cars (I mean helpful as in willingness,,, I'm still not sure any of us know what we're doing! LOL)
- lowrydesign
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Re: rc10 mid motor oval build, with custom chassis
well i finished it and drove it a lil bit in front of the house today, handles a lot different than what im used to... thats for sure.... brake...then turn left..lol
.....still waiting on a custom works wheel/tire setup to come in that i ordered.... so dont worry about those b3 wheels staying on it very long...



.....still waiting on a custom works wheel/tire setup to come in that i ordered.... so dont worry about those b3 wheels staying on it very long...



Re: rc10 mid motor oval build, with custom chassis
I like it but it looks like the CG is quite high. I assume it will probably be lower with the new wheels/tires.
- lowrydesign
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Re: rc10 mid motor oval build, with custom chassis
their is no battery in it.... and the custom works tiers are 3/4 inch shorter.fastang wrote:I like it but it looks like the CG is quite high. I assume it will probably be lower with the new wheels/tires.
i might have to change the shocks positions around also...
- PBR Allstar
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Re: rc10 mid motor oval build, with custom chassis
better put a spoiler on the back of that body!!! max height is 2" and the side boards cannot extend further forward than the quarter windows
- lowrydesign
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Re: rc10 mid motor oval build, with custom chassis
what is that supposed to look like???PBR Allstar wrote:better put a spoiler on the back of that body!!! max height is 2" and the side boards cannot extend further forward than the quarter windows
- Charlie don't surf
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Re: rc10 mid motor oval build, with custom chassis
2" tall rear wing, 45 deg angle (towards the rear of the car)
, right triangle sideboards
and in most cases on a 2" max wing, you want to subtract for the 1/2" wickerbill at the
top----------------------you know this really would have been easier if you let me send you
one of my bodies

and in most cases on a 2" max wing, you want to subtract for the 1/2" wickerbill at the
top----------------------you know this really would have been easier if you let me send you
one of my bodies

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