SC10 To Dirt Oval Modified or Late Model

[joeman37]

Guys, I am not sure if this is the right spot for this or not, if it is not a mod can please move it.

Anyway my local track just put in a dirt oval and the two classes that look like they may be big will both be based on short course trucks. They will have an IMCA Modified class with 17.5 motors and a Late Model class with 13.5 motors. I have been tossing the idea of getting my 7 year old son into RC Racing (he has a Midnight Pumpkin and just got a Traxxas Grinder last week for his birthday) and I thought he would like the offroad but he swear he wants to race the oval (we go to the local dirt track every Friday night and I still have my 1:1 stock car in the shop he wants me to race again) I really want to race the oval too.

So the question is, what is my best bang for the buck to turn into an oval car? I have a FT SC10 in the box I bought a while back but never got around to building, so that will probably be one of them. But would I be better off buying a second FTSC10 (are the first ones considered SC10.1 now that the SC10.2 are out?) kit or one of the ready to runs? Tower has the FTSC10's for about $230 plus discount coupons and the RS RTR are about $300 less coupon but I would probably still have to go with new electronics. I am leaning towards another kit. I don't really see an advantage to getting the FTSC10.2 for this as the big bore shocks seem overkill for an application like this. Keep in mind this will be done on a budget since I will have to be buying two of most everything. I do have until next summer as it is an outdoor track but figure I better get a kit soon before they dry up if that is the way to go.

Any suggestions on gearing, and an affordable ESC/motor combo for this?

We were there Sunday for a little bit and ran his Grinder and my Gravedigger on the oval and a little on the outdoor offroad track. He still swears he likes the oval better.

I do also have a pair of Sliders I bought used a while back but never put electronics into those. They are not planning a sprint car class but said they would run one if at least three cars showed up...

-Joe

[DHood]

I run one at my local oval track and it's loads of fun. I'm running B4 shocks and custom bumper and body mounts. I'll get some body off pics if you want to see them.

[joeman37]

Yes pics without the shell would be cool. I am just wondering if there is any advantage to the SC10.2 over the SC10 since I don't see a need for big bore shocks on an oval. The other changes don't seem to major and I don't know if the front arms would make a big difference either.

-Joe

[RC10th]

Not exactly an SC10 but a close relative, a B4 converted to oval using speedys parts and a custom works body.

[joeman37]

Not exactly an SC10 but a close relative, a B4 converted to oval using speedys parts and a custom works body.

Cool, I also have a FTB4.1 I have sitting on a shelf I built but never ran, what is all involved in this conversion?

That is the other question what would it take to convert the B4.1 to an SC10? I would need wheels and tires, but I could probably keep the shocks and shock towers, then just mounting the body? The Mod body comes with a front bumper assembly. I am guessing I would need a chassis, will the bulkheads and suspension mounts all transfer from one chassis to the other? I am forgetting about arm too...maybe not the best idea, plus I want to offroad race something next summer or in the winter...

-Joe

[joeman37]

Well I did not get any responses to my main question so I did some pricing around and Tower is out of the FTSC10 but I got a good deal on one from a member on RC tech forums. I'll now have 2 FT kits to turn into a pair of modifieds for next season.

The track is about a scale 1/3 mile the rules call for a 17.5 turn brushless set up. what would be a decent B/L system to get started with? I already have 3 or 4 ROAR approved 40c2s LiPos.

Any tips on gearing that won't run hot?

Am I better sticking with the ball diff or getting a gear diff?

-Joe

[RC10th]

Converting a B4 to SC10 would be an expensive exercise. Shocks, towers, chassis, arms, tierods and drive shafts are all different.

I assume the 17.5 class is an open timing class, meaning you can run dynamic timing? If so I think the AE manual gives you a good starting point. Otherwise keep adding boost and turbo till your in the right temp range. If it's a blinky class you'll have to keep gearing it up till your in the right temp range.

Every 2wd gear diff car I've driven I've hated. I'd stick with the ball diff, just build it correctly and you wont have any issues with it.

[joeman37]

Converting a B4 to SC10 would be an expensive exercise. Shocks, towers, chassis, arms, tierods and drive shafts are all different.

I assume the 17.5 class is an open timing class, meaning you can run dynamic timing? If so I think the AE manual gives you a good starting point. Otherwise keep adding boost and turbo till your in the right temp range. If it's a blinky class you'll have to keep gearing it up till your in the right temp range.

Every 2wd gear diff car I've driven I've hated. I'd stick with the ball diff, just build it correctly and you wont have any issues with it.

I am still trying to get the brushless lingo and such down pat. From what I understand you are not allowed to add timing with the ESC but can add it through the motor manually, if that makes sense.

I knew the converting a b4.1 to sc10 would not be cheap but I was also thinking I could skip the shocks and towers since I don't need the travel or ride height. In any case I am going with two SC10's.

I think I will start with the ball diffs and pick up gear diffs for spares if I eat the ball diffs in a short amount of time. I've got a lot to learn since I haven't raced in years and am still trying to learn about brushless stuff.

Thanks for the reply,

-Joe

[Johnboy72]

Everyone around me liked those Tekin ESCs but my Mamba Max Pro would hang with them. I used this motor and loved it. I just kept an eye on the temps and have used it for about two years now. It's a rocket!

Use the ball diff. I had a gear diff in my Havoc 2.1 and converted it back to ball diff. Same with my Losi trucks. Just wasnt happy with how it rotated thru the turns with the gear diff.

[longboardnj]

Yes pics without the shell would be cool. I am just wondering if there is any advantage to the SC10.2 over the SC10 since I don't see a need for big bore shocks on an oval. The other changes don't seem to major and I don't know if the front arms would make a big difference either.

-Joe

sc10.2FT has nicer body mounts that id like to put on my sc10 but i think you may need the front shock tower for that to work .. the ft is cool for racing but i love the rtr stuff . i just take out the 3300 motor and put in a 4900 and they are a blast.. i really like the rtr gear diffs too. makes me wonder if you put a diff locker in would that be good for dirt oval?

[joeman37]

Yes pics without the shell would be cool. I am just wondering if there is any advantage to the SC10.2 over the SC10 since I don't see a need for big bore shocks on an oval. The other changes don't seem to major and I don't know if the front arms would make a big difference either.

-Joe

sc10.2FT has nicer body mounts that id like to put on my sc10 but i think you may need the front shock tower for that to work .. the ft is cool for racing but i love the rtr stuff . i just take out the 3300 motor and put in a 4900 and they are a blast.. i really like the rtr gear diffs too. makes me wonder if you put a diff locker in would that be good for dirt oval?

I was wondering that about locking the rear as well. In my stock car we run a mini spool and the other classes also run either a full spool or mini spool. The thing there though is you can use tire stagger to get the rear end to rotate properly through the corners. With RC cars and the tires not having air pressure I don't think you can do too much with stagger.

As for kits I hate RTR's, there is a whole lot of fun that is missed by not building a kit. It is a big part of the hobby for me but I am a little old school like that.

Yeah I don't think the improvements the sc10.2 will make a big difference to me so I will save over $100 on the second kit and go with the FTSC10.

-Joe

[joeman37]

Bumping this old thread because I am about to start building these cars for the upcoming outdoor oval season. I have two SC10FT kits I will be building into dirt modifieds. I think I have found the body kits I want to go with. I still need to pick out an ESC/Motor combo for them. It is going to be a 17.5 blinky class so I need some suggestions for some cheap esc/motor combos. I am also looking for some cheap steering servos. My budget for motor/esc/servo is about $150 per car so what would you suggest? I also need some ideas on where to start on gearing and springs/shock oil if anyone has some feedback.

Thanks!

-Joe

[hawgfanman]

Hobbywing Justock ESC for about $50 and a red can Turnigy Track Star 17.5 for about $35 and you should be good to go! I'm a Savox fan for servos.

[joeman37]

Hobbywing Justock ESC for about $50 and a red can Turnigy Track Star 17.5 for about $35 and you should be good to go! I'm a Savox fan for servos.

The 2270kv one?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__21866__turnigy_trackstar_17_5t_sensored_brushless_motor_2270kv.html
Out of stock right now and I am not seeing anyone but Hobbyking carrying them?

Which Savox servo?

Thanks for the reply, any ideas on gearing?

-Joe

[hawgfanman]

Yea, that's the right motor. Can't beat 'em for the price! I don't know of anywhere else that sells them. For gearing, 17.5's seem to like a really small spur with a big pinion. I haven't run one in my SC10B but run 81/30 in my gold pan and it could use more gear.
I have three of the Savox 1251mg in my cars including my SC10B and my Slash 4x4. Plenty of torque and super fast. Honestly, probably too fast for my skill!