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About the chassis it is certainly thinner and lighter than the original. It's like the CC. I don't have the classic reissue so can't comment on that one. Do you have actual thickness numbers to support the thinner claim? From my research, I have heard the 40th is as thick as an original variant. I ...

Do you have actual thickness numbers to support the thinner claim? From my research, I have heard the 40th is as thick as an original variant. I haven't opened my 40th, so I can't confirm. I have personally confirmed that it's the same thickness as a B stamp chassis. I'm not sure where people keep ...

About the chassis it is certainly thinner and lighter than the original. It's like the CC. I don't have the classic reissue so can't comment on that one. Do you have actual thickness numbers to support the thinner claim? From my research, I have heard the 40th is as thick as an original variant. I ...

Tried searching here and could find nothing on it, but what's the deal with the currently available Associated "Stealth X" transmission? With the difficulty of finding (affording) the originals, is this a viable option to use in builds or is it not suitable in some way because it's a crawl...

Thanks...did see that. I guess what I'm asking is if there's a way to ID a motor aside from its can's sticker? Are there any other marking manufacturers put on their motors to designate things like # of turns?

Any guidance on how to ID vintage motors that you have in hand? Like, I have a "Revenge of the Monster" motor that according to the excellent Ultimate Vintage Brushed Motor Reference Guide in this subforum is a Trinity motor, but nowhere on the motor does it say Trinity. Another example, I...

Thanks guys.

So, KidAgain....the o-rings in that ebay link are the particular size that's needed?

XLR8 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 22, 2019 9:14 pm I concur. The trans appears to be aftermarket as well.

Yep...identified on that original post as an A&L lethal weapon trans and Robinson Racing steering.

Warhead...I'm thinking like you are. I recently got a B4 for my collection and feel like now's the time to buy. Also, since Associated (and seemingly everything else) has gone mid engine and (in my opinion unappealing) "cab forward" looks, anything that's rear engine looks "classic&qu...

Thought I’d post a way long overdue update on a car I asked a question about here many years ago. Like many hobbies of mine, this one went dormant for a long time, hence my absence here. The good news is that the car I asked about in this thread from many years ago did ultimately get completed and i...

I've searched and found older threads on rebuilding the Classic (gold) shocks. One said a particular Traxxas seal would work, another simply suggested getting a commercially available o-ring from an industrial supply house. So, now, in 2019, are there any other (better?) options for doing this? Obvi...

Thanks for the replies on this. Definitely needs something to increase rigidity but I only have the part shown. Was thinking of modding this into some sort of double deck chassis to increase stiffness but didn't want to hack it up if it was something super rare/desirable.

Anyone recognize this? Believe this to be some sort of fiberglass RC10 chassis. All existing chassis holes line up with original gold pan (no stealth holes). Thinking this may have been some type of early on road chassis as it doesn’t seem quite rigid enough to be a buggy platform (it’s thinner than...

Car looks good, get it cleaned up and runnin'!! That's the plan! Incidentally, these arms substantially increase the track of this car front and rear. Here are comparison shots against an early 1990's RC10 CE with the factory wide-track front suspension... http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv95/Se...

Thanks for the replies guys. That does indeed look like what this transmission is. I bought this roller as it sits years ago, so because I did not build it (and had only messed with stock RC-10's), I was unable to identify many of the parts on this car. Which leads to the arms that JK Racing comment...