RC10 Team Car Setup for 2008 Vintage Off-Road Champships

[Mark Westerfield]

Mark Westerfield's

2008 Vintage Off-Road Nationals @ Radio Control Hobbies & Raceway, CT.

1991 RC10 Team Car Setup

Front

Shock Body: .71
Shock Shaft: .71
Travel Limiter: None
Piston: #1
Oil: Asc 40wt
Spring: Green
Shock Upper Mount: Top Middle
Shock Lower Mount: Arm Outside
Camber Link: Inside
Camber: -1.5 Degrees
Castor: 30 Degrees
Toe-In: 0 Degrees
Bump Steer: 2 x .030 on steering block
Bellcrank Type: Houge Ball Bearing
Steering blocks: Inline
Front Axle: T4 Inline
Ride Height: 22mm
Wheels: RC10B4
Tires: JConcepts Rounders
Inserts: JConcepts Standard

Rear

Shock Body: 1.32
Shock Shaft: 1.32
Travel Limiter: 3 x .125
Piston: #1
Oil: Asc 35wt
Spring: Green
Shock Upper Mount: Inside
Shock Lower Mount: Outside
Camber Link: Inside Under Wing Mounts
Camber: -1.5 Degrees
Anti-Squat: Std (3 Degrees)
Toe-in: 1.5 Degrees On Mount, 1.5 Degrees On Hub Carrier
Wheelbase: Short
Rear Axle: MIP RC10 CVD's W/RC10B4 CVD Axle, B4 wheel spacers, 3/8 x 3/16 Flanged Bearings
Ride Height: 22mm
Wheels: Duratrax Nitro Evader
Tires: JConcepts Double Dee's
Inserts: JConcepts Standard

Motor: Novak 17.5
Gear Ratio: 28/81
Battery: Orion 3200 Lipo
Speedo: LRP Sphere Competition
Settings: 1-4-1-3
Servo: Airtronics 94357
Body: Asc Viper
Wing: Asc 6.5 w/ Full Spoiler

Other tips...

If using the graphite trasmission brace, make sure the .060 washers are between the the bulkhead and brace. Use a striaghtedge to make sure the chassis is striaght across the bottom for correct front kickup and rear antisquat. Add shims between motor guard and chassis to correct antisquat. Use short neck ballstuds on steering rack and front shock tower to eliminated ballcup contact. Final tuning on these cars is mostly done with shock limiting and ride height adjustments.

[adam lancia]

Hey Mark,

Nice job on giving the guys a place to start with their setup, seems from looking at the video that it's a pretty forgiving setup as well. One thing I would suggest (picking nits here...) If you use 1.02 shafts in the rear you'll achieve 2 things: fewer spacers on the shaft to get the correct down travel and the piston will stay completely in the oil with the shorter shaft since it won't travel up as far into the shock body. It's by no means a necessity though, just something that crossed my mind when I saw your internal limiting values.

I wish I could attend this race myself but I'm going to be out of town on a long previously scheduled trip

Have a great time!

[RichieRich]

Mark Westerfield's


If using the graphite trasmission brace, make sure the .060 washers are between the the bulkhead and brace. Use a striaghtedge to make sure the chassis is striaght across the bottom for correct front kickup and rear antisquat. Add shims between motor guard and chassis to correct antisquat. Use short neck ballstuds on steering rack and front shock tower to eliminated ballcup contact. Final tuning on these cars is mostly done with shock limiting and ride height adjustments.

How do we know if we need the washers? I swear some of the bulkheads have different heights.

[Mark Westerfield]

The oil mixes with the air and is emulsified with either shaft length with the amount of turbulance the piston causes, so it really dosen't matter which shaft you use. Most racers pump their shocks a few times before the race to pre-mix the air and oil for consistancy.

Oh yeah, I'm using Yokomo bleeder shock caps - forgot to put that in the setup.

Another trick is make sure the top and bottom coils on the springs are sperated and not powder coated together as this changes their spring rate. Use Brian Kinwald's spring grinding tip to ensure the springs do not rub the shock bodies during travel...

http://www.2wdrc.com/DDP/SpringAdjusting.htm

[Mark Westerfield]

How do we know if we need the washers? I swear some of the bulkheads have different heights.

If your using the graphite brace on the AE Stealth transmission, then you need them. If you look very closely at the very top of the Stealth Transmission (especially if its out of the car on a flat surface), you'll see that the top of the transmission is not perfectly level and leans back, because of this, you need the washers. The effect is that the transmission pulls on the chassis plate and reduces the antisquat (checked with a straightedge on the bottom of the chassis)

[carloco8]

The bulkheads with the the 9-hole camber link square need the .060 washers. The "world's" bulkhead with only three camber link holes on the outside has extra plastic molded on top and doesn't need them.

[tecnica2001]

Hey Mark, have you tried fitting anything larger than a 3200 pack, will a 4500 pack fit in the RC10??

[badhoopty]

man that helps a ton...

thanks mark!!!

[Mark Westerfield]

The bulkheads with the the 9-hole camber link square need the .060 washers. The "world's" bulkhead with only three camber link holes on the outside has extra plastic molded on top and doesn't need them.

I have a worlds bulkhead on my car and still needed the spacers to keep the chassis straight and true for correct anti-squat. The main goal is to keep the chassis straight, unless your doing a "by the book" restoration.

[Mark Westerfield]

Hey Mark, have you tried fitting anything larger than a 3200 pack, will a 4500 pack fit in the RC10??

I had to drill holes in the chassis for the battery cup to compensate for the length of the Orion 3200 lipo. The Orion 4800 and the Reedy 5000 both fit, although the screws that hold the battery strap in needed to be raised. I choose the Orion 3200 because the race lengths at Vintage Nats is only 5 minutes, and the 3200 is lower in weight. You have to remember, my setup is based on the weight of the Orion 3200, heavier batteries might have undesired effects using my setup.

[Mark Westerfield]

man that helps a ton...

thanks mark!!!

Your welcome.

Pictures of my car to follow soon...

[aeiou]

Thanks for all the detail, Mark.

Are you running an original slipper on that car?

[tazz888]

Mark,

Thanks for all the info. You shoud have told me that you posted the set-up here, then I wouldn't have palyed 20 questions with you at the shop yesterday.

Can you order me the parts needed to do the rear CVD conversion for Garys gold tub car? Let me know because I'll be putting a list of parts together that he need to get in addition to the axle conversion. I'm be sending him up next weekend to get what you have. I'll probably give you a call durring the week let you know what we need so you can hold them for us. He probably will be buying a few of the parts back from you that you bought from him yesterday....

[covell2]

thanks Mark!

[Mark Westerfield]

Thanks for all the detail, Mark.

Are you running an original slipper on that car?

Yes, the original slipper. Your really not going to need a slipper clutch with a 17.5 and current compound tires on our track.