It was the engineering plate I used , maybe a different brand of tape might work better maybe with a different adhesive ? a bit of trial and error might find the best tape , my feeling is that lowering the bed temp may help with tape as the adhesive may soften at higher temps ? , I was running 80°C ( recommended temp on filament spool was 60-80°C ) , ultimately the print permanently bonded to the tape and has to be cut out so it's far from ideal ! The Magigoo glue stick works , I just reprinted the arm with a 10mm brim and it's perfect , you can even still see the fake carbon fibre weave pattern from the cheap build plate is unaffected by the glue stick , the Magigoo glue aplicator is very (suspiciously) similar to the glue you get with the P1P .silvertriple wrote: ↑Thu Jan 04, 2024 12:54 pmI take note of this. Engineering plate is perfectly flat and should be the first choice for this...Dadio wrote: ↑Thu Jan 04, 2024 10:02 am There is a quick down and dirty solution though , most regular sticky tape is PP so you just tape up the bed and print on the tape , now I tried this but I used a smooth PEI bed plate that may have been the problem as the filament stuck very well to the tape but the tape peeled off the bed leaving a very warped part .
At this point I could have stripped the PEI coating off the bed so the tape was sticking to the spring steel plate directly but I only had two plates for my P1P and didn't want to ruin one so I ordered a cheap plate with fancy patterns on each side thinking I could strip the coating off the cheap plate , after ordering the new plate I found that Magigoo made a special glue just for PP so I ordered some of that too .
Ultimately if your making structural parts the thickness is going to promote warping and I think the Magigoo is a better option .
then i though what about the suspension pin holes , this is the hardest thing to make strong with 3d printing , i put a pin in one hole and started pulling , it just stretched 
