CVD/CVA Combos for Vintage RC10 - B6 Rear 12mm Hex wheels

[theman]

Hi all, the intention of this post is to serve as a reference point detailing how to duplicate some of the rear end setups I've used and get a lot of questions on.

I'll preface this by stating that there are a lot of different CVA/CVD and wheel/hub/arm combinations. This post is specifically focusing on using the RC10B6 12mm rear 2.2 inch hex wheels on a vintage RC10. This is great for me because I can interchange wheels on my b6 and vintage RC10. At the time of this writing, most of the parts required for the below setups are easy to find, which is another bonus.

There are two versions - setup for standard rear arms and another setup for "long" rear arms (Dynotech Kliens or RPM 91 Worlds rear arms). If you look at the parts list below, you may notice that the only real difference between these setups are the arm, cva bone and some shims.

SHORT ARMS:

*Please note that you may need to put a few spacers in the shocks to keep the CVA's from popping out. The original car also has spacers in the shocks.

• ARM: Team Associated 6355 - RC10 Standard Rear Arms

• HUB: RPM 70172 - Rear Axle carrier for SC10, T4, B4 (your going to need to drill the hole for the hinge pin with 1/8 inch bit)

• Bearings: Team Associated 7935 - .187' X .50" X .196"

• Bearings: Team Associated 3977 - 3/16" X 3/8"

• Crush Tube: Team Associated 7933 - Goes inside of hub between the bearings

• CVA Bone: Losi TLR232106 (61mm) - Your going to need 2 packages

• Axle: Team Associated 9755

• Rebuild Kit: MIP 10144

• Pin Retainer: Team Associated 7996 - Posilock QC Pin Retainer

• Hex Clamps: Team Associated 9893 or 9892 (if you want to extend wheels an additional 1/8" on each side)

• Axle Pin: Team Associated 7369

LONG ARMS:

* Note, with this setup as well as using b5/b6 shocks and Factoryworks shock towers I was able to get away with not using any spacers inside the shocks, as well as use the last shock mounting hole on the rear arms (closest to the wheel). If your going to race with this setup, keep an eye on the width as it is really close to 250 mm.

• ARM: Dyntotech Kliens (or RPM 91 Worlds) - https://dynotech-racing.com/partList.php?carID=K

• HUB: RPM 70172 - Rear Axle carrier for SC10, T4, B4 (your going to need to drill the hole for the hinge pin with 1/8 inch bit)

• Bearings: Team Associated 7935 - .187' X .50" X .196"

• Bearings: Team Associated 3977 - 3/16" X 3/8"

• Crush Tube: Team Associated 7933 - Goes inside of hub between the bearings

• CVA Bone: Team Associated 91434 (B6 67mm cva bone) - Your going to need to either file down the pin that goes into the out drive, or file down the out drive itself (only a little bit - enough for CVA bone to slide in and out smoothly)

• Axle: Team Associated 9755

• Rebuild Kit: MIP 10144

• Pin Retainer: Team Associated 7996 - Posilock QC Pin Retainer

• Shims: Team Associated 7368 - Rear Axle (Universal) Shims, 3/16 x .010 in (other vendors sell this as well - i used 3 on the inner axle)

• Hex Clamps: Team Associated 9893 or 9892 (if you want to extend wheels an additional 1/8" on each side)

• Axle Pin: Team Associated 7369

Special thanks to Lew Clayton and Freddy A. Valentin Rodriguez and anyone else who helped me with this, it was a group effort.

[Chewbacca]

Great summary!

Thanks !

[Lonestar]

Men this is the most stunning first post ever for me you certainly deserve your handle name

Welcome aboard! We are pleased to have you here with us

[sandbar782]

Great write up man. It’s been long overdue. So far everything we’ve tried and experimented w has been working. Sure was costly getting to this point, but what are hobbies for!?

[Dual]

Very good Thanks for taking the time to explain in great detail all the items necessary for this conversion.