AE Hinge pins

[XLR8]

Hey all,
I'm using SC10 caster and steering blocks for a custom build and I'm having some trouble finding hinge pins - or rod material to make them.
Apparently AE changed from 1/8" to 0.110" diameter sometime prior to the B4? Anyway, the set is numbered 9622 and 9621 and AE has discontinued them (of course they have ). I need just 6 pins for my project (arm inner and outer and steering).

There is 91394 but I don't know the diameter. They are shown for:

hinge pin set.JPG (20.98 KiB) Viewed 1325 times

hinge pin set.JPG (20.98 KiB) Viewed 1325 times

I'm guessing these are B5 era pins and perhaps they are metric?

Anyway, I'm looking for advice before I give up and ream the holes to 3mm.

thanks.

[juicedcoupe]

I believe the 9622 is what you need. They are still available from several places.

[XLR8]

Apparently none of my trusted retail sources have them. According to Mr. Google, places like "GShobby" and "Tony's hobbies" claim to have the parts but I've never ordered from them before so I'd prefer to avoid the risk.

Anyway, I'll need front inner arm pins and according to my manuals, 9622 doesn't include them. Inner pins are identified as 9621.
I've found 9622 on ebay but want to avoid paying $15 - $20 for 6 pins (including shipping and sales tax).

I could just ream the holes to 3mm since I have some rod that size. Need to be careful because they're not through holes.

Could someone confirm my suspicion that B5 onwards is metric?

thanks

[bluewormx]

All hinge pins > B5 are 3mm

[LoboNYC]

This is a SC10 c-hub on my DS.

All i did was take a 1/8" drill bit, attach it to a vice grip, and SLOWLY turned it through the hole.

Afterwards i would push/pull the drill bit without turning through a few times to smooth it out.

The hinge pin slid through easily without slop.



Don't use a power drill. i ruined a set that way.

[XLR8]

This is a SC10 c-hub on my DS.

All i did was take a 1/8" drill bit, attach it to a vice grip, and SLOWLY turned it through the hole.

Afterwards i would push/pull the drill bit without turning through a few times to smooth it out.

The hinge pin slid through easily without slop.



Don't use a power drill. i ruined a set that way.

That's a great tip from our resident DS master. Thanks!

I'm building a Porsche 934 with rear motor and I really wanted to start with a DS but I didn't see an easy way to shorten the wheelbase to 230mm without hacking-up precious vintage AE parts so I decided to go the custom build route. Also, I wanted trailing arm rear suspension like the 1:1 car.

By the way, where did you find the aluminum DS arm shown in your photo?

[juicedcoupe]

All i did was take a 1/8" drill bit, attach it to a vice grip, and SLOWLY turned it through the hole.

Save yourself a little trouble.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-93-Adjustable-Vise/dp/B000COYPG4/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?crid=DT7EPHJ49AB&keywords=general+tools+handle&qid=1677166181&sprefix=general+tools%2Caps%2C8468&sr=8-16

Also works good with smaller taps and reamers.

[Frankentruck]

This is my preferred tool for holding drill bits and other round things. It's open ended and allows pass through.
.

[LoboNYC]

That's a great tip from our resident DS master. Thanks!

I'm building a Porsche 934 with rear motor and I really wanted to start with a DS but I didn't see an easy way to shorten the wheelbase to 230mm without hacking-up precious vintage AE parts so I decided to go the custom build route. Also, I wanted trailing arm rear suspension like the 1:1 car.

By the way, where did you find the aluminum DS arm shown in your photo?

The DS would have been perfect to slide under that particular Porsche body except for the wheelbase. I slid a DS chassis under a Tamiya Porsche body without altering chassis. However, i altered the body. I was not happy with outcome though. I trimmed the front portion of the body in order for the front wheel to clear but this left a big space behind the front tire as you can see... This bothers me.



Eventually i will correct this by either by ordering a custom carbon chassis with shorter wheelbase or by replacing the Porsche body with an HPI version that has proper wheelbase for the DS. But that's a future project

The blue aluminum arms came from an early DS roller purchase. I combined them with an emerald green B stamped chassis.

[LoboNYC]

Save yourself a little trouble.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-93-Adjustable-Vise/dp/B000COYPG4/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?crid=DT7EPHJ49AB&keywords=general+tools+handle&qid=1677166181&sprefix=general+tools%2Caps%2C8468&sr=8-16

Also works good with smaller taps and reamers.

This is my preferred tool for holding drill bits and other round things. It's open ended and allows pass through.

FREAKING COOL!!!

Thanks guys...this definitely beats the vice-grips

[XLR8]

Save yourself a little trouble.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-93-Adjustable-Vise/dp/B000COYPG4/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?crid=DT7EPHJ49AB&keywords=general+tools+handle&qid=1677166181&sprefix=general+tools%2Caps%2C8468&sr=8-16

Also works good with smaller taps and reamers.

This is my preferred tool for holding drill bits and other round things. It's open ended and allows pass through.

FREAKING COOL!!!

Thanks guys...this definitely beats the vice-grips

I agree, both of those tools would be very helpful. Thanks for posting links.
The small drill chuck in my mini lathe can be removed by pulling a pin so I'll use it for hand drilling.

[XLR8]

That's a great tip from our resident DS master. Thanks!

I'm building a Porsche 934 with rear motor and I really wanted to start with a DS but I didn't see an easy way to shorten the wheelbase to 230mm without hacking-up precious vintage AE parts so I decided to go the custom build route. Also, I wanted trailing arm rear suspension like the 1:1 car.

By the way, where did you find the aluminum DS arm shown in your photo?

The DS would have been perfect to slide under that particular Porsche body except for the wheelbase. I slid a DS chassis under a Tamiya Porsche body without altering chassis. However, i altered the body. I was not happy with outcome though. I trimmed the front portion of the body in order for the front wheel to clear but this left a big space behind the front tire as you can see... This bothers me.



Eventually i will correct this by either by ordering a custom carbon chassis with shorter wheelbase or by replacing the Porsche body with an HPI version that has proper wheelbase for the DS. But that's a future project

The blue aluminum arms came from an early DS roller purchase. I combined them with an emerald green B stamped chassis.

Actually, I think your 911 looks really good. I didn't notice the enlarged front wheel openings. We tend to be our own worst critic.
Anyway, I started down that path, bought the same Tamiya 911 body set, then I heard that Tamico got a shipment of 934 bodies sets so I went ahead and got one of those as well. I didn't realize they were different wheelbases. I though I could build one chassis and it would fit either body. Wrong. So when the 934 is finished, I might build another chassis for the 911 or maybe I'll get a cheap TT-02 for it. I just feel that mid-motor AWD is wrong for a 70's era Porsche.

[LoboNYC]

I agree with the Porsche needing have the engine mounted in the rear. That's why i wanted to slide a DS chassis uunder a Porsche body...for the rear engine handling characteristics.

Now when i did the Pantera DS...i used a mid engine mounted chassis for mid engine characteristics.

One day i'll take the two out for a few laps to see the difference.