Many years ago...I had a idea...

[JK Racing]

Many years ago...I had a idea...

[JK Racing]

and now....the JRXX4

[JK Racing]

Lots of finish work to do, free up drivetrain, make/move shocks in one hole, 12mm hex front/rear (so I can use my 22-4 wheels), rebuild shocks, install electronics, install Heavy Metal body kit, trim and mount body....LOL

[TRX-1-3]

Dude, that's rad.

[YakkityYak]

Awesome car. Ive been thinking about building a Buggy with Frog front suspension and either a Losi 5-Link or a trailing arm setup.

I just wish i could find an affordable 5-Link roller or parts to do it!

[Lonestar]

that... is... totally... awesome

all this despite keeping the fragile front end of the XX4 with the breakage-prone rear end of the JRX2, ie the worst of both worlds

[jwscab]

how did you mount those side link bulkheads? are there glued flanges there you added?

very cool, always loved that 5 link.

[JK Racing]

how did you mount those side link bulkheads? are there glued flanges there you added?

I started with a broken chassis (rear arm mount area) - so there were no pristine parts modified I measured about 50 times, drew out lines on where the mount holes would be, went about 5mm out from each side and cut the sides of the chassis. I heated the cut section and flattened it out to make an 'ear'. Drilled and countersunk the ear. After a bunch of trial and error and testing different set ups, I got to the current one. Liked it, like the feel, but the ears were flexible and I fear would break. I could flex them by pushing in on the top of the forward 5 link mount. I had bought a product to try, called Speedy Fix - its CA glue with some powder that 'fixes' modern plastics like fan shrouds on full size vehicles. So, I tested it on the rear of the chassis. Quite amazed at how strong the section was, I had to redrill and countersink the hole that was busted out. It drilled and sunk like the Losi stiffezel chassis. So, I used the same product and created small flaps/triangles on each side of the ear, then the triangle up the side of the chassis. Amazingly very stiff now. There is no flex in the ear, the mount itself will start to flex before the ear does. I am going to put another small coat on and sand it smooth, attempting to make it look more 'factory' and then finish this up and run it.

Version 2.0 - if needed - will have a G10 insert (think of an L shape) where the batteries go, tabbing out over the ear.

[JK Racing]

..

[mikea96]

Nice work! I'm assuming you plan on racing it like the rest of your cars.

[jwscab]

Very cool. I will have to check out that adhesive. Really interesting how you heated and bent the chassis. Good to know I have a chassis with a broken nose I plan to repair so this sounds like the stuff I want to use.

[JK Racing]

Nice work! I'm assuming you plan on racing it like the rest of your cars.

Yep, hoping to have it running in a couple weeks tops. Just need to source parts

[coxbros1]

Very nice homz!

[Mr. ED]

can't help but love it

[JK Racing]

Rebuilt the shocks, messed with the rear links for smoother operation (moved to the front on the shock tower side), put the proper spur gear inside & free'd up the drivetrain something fierce Smooth now. Body mounts and servo mount in route, just need to button up a few more little details and toss it on some loose dirt!!

Yes, I have a set of 5 spoke Losi wheels getting cleaned up.

The 22-4 motor clamp WILL WORK. It is a hair shorter, so I ovaled out the rear hole a touch and no issues. Will be running 13.5, geared 25/78 to start.