Rebuilding kit 6035 Team Car - Some advice needed

[badcrc]

Getting back into RC, I started racing a Tamiya Fox in the early 80s, upgraded it with a Hot Trick (I think that was the name) aluminum kit, and eventually got a gold tub RC10 to race in stock class. Real cars and girls came my way and I hung up my transmitter and my trophies and sold all my gear...I don't even like thinking about giving up my RC10 now (I'd even like to have that Fox back because I never saw one then or since that was completely modified like mine). Anyway, at some point I built two RC10 Team Cars (Kit #6035) with Stealth ATC tranny for my nephews as Christmas gifts from their parents back in the 90s and one of my nephews gave me his car years ago and it sat all this time until last weekend.

I dug it out, cleaned it up slightly, then tried to fire it up with a 2200mah 2S lipo, the old Airtronics Blazer Sport radio, Futaba MC210cb esc, and Airtronics receiver. The throttle didn't work at all, so I went through the esc calibration in the manual with the transmitter throttle orientation switch set to "normal". Still nothing. With the the throttle switch set to reverse, I can do the calibration corrrectly (the led on the esc responds correctly as I turn the adjustments) but afterward when I pull the trigger the motor goes in reverse. From what I read on the forums the esc could be fried, but I'm fairly sure it worked before my nephew shelved it. The steering works perfectly either way. Ideas?

I got online and went a little nuts ordering parts, I bought a "Castle Creations 1/10 SV3 Sidewinder SCT System 3800kV", JConcepts aluminum steering bellcrank set, and various other little parts like a new wing. This is where my second question comes in...I wanted to get new tires but the Team Car seems to have a weird wheel size, something between the original RC10 and the World's Car, or am I wrong? The front wheel diameter is about 2 1/4" and the rear wheel is about 2 1/8" (actually less). I guess I'm just nervous about getting the wrong parts, but will 2.2" tires fit on this thing? I really don't like the original knobby RC10 tires, but I wanted to try some rally type tires that don't wear as much on pavement, which is about 50% of my driving around the house. Anyone have a link to something that would fit the front and rear? Every tire I looked at on rcplanet and tower hobbies didn't seem like it would fit.

Last question, is the Castle Creations combo I ordered a good choice for this car? I read quite a bit and everyone seems to have their own favorite, but Castle seemed to be pretty popular. After I already ordered I also read that I may have an issue with that old Airtronics receiver (I think it's a 92621 "micro bec receiver", AM 27mhz). I kind of want to keep the car as close to original as I can but I also want to fix things that annoyed me since the gold tub days, like the sloppy steering. I'm still trying to decide if I want to restore it for the shelf or drive it. The chassis is a little scratched on the bottom.

[foots]

4 pole motor might be a little much but you can always turn it down some.

[DMAT]

just judging from it being a team car, its probably running 2.15" wheels in the front and 2.0 wheels in the back.

your front axles are 3/16" so most modern wheels and tires that run bearing in them will fit already.

the rear axles are probably 1/4" which limits what you can use a good bit. If you swap out your bearings in the rear carrier to 3/8" x 3/16", you can run the 3/16" cva's (asc6371) which will be compatible with most rear wheels.

for that castle system, I do have the same one in one of my buggies and its a lot of motor for the car. its worth getting a castle bec though as their systems only put out 5v to rx/servo.

[badcrc]

just judging from it being a team car, its probably running 2.15" wheels in the front and 2.0 wheels in the back.

your front axles are 3/16" so most modern wheels and tires that run bearing in them will fit already.

the rear axles are probably 1/4" which limits what you can use a good bit. If you swap out your bearings in the rear carrier to 3/8" x 3/16", you can run the 3/16" cva's (asc6371) which will be compatible with most rear wheels.

for that castle system, I do have the same one in one of my buggies and its a lot of motor for the car. its worth getting a castle bec though as their systems only put out 5v to rx/servo.

I guess they're 3/16 in the rear...I found the team car manual on the forum here and the part #6371 shows 3/16 cva. Good thing, I almost sprung for the conversion kits.

[mikea96]

The original rear universals were 1/4 inch the re-re version are 3/16. Associated used the same part number on the re-re part as the original.

[badcrc]

I'm fixing up this Team Car only replacing some worn parts, except for the RPM A-arms which I got to match the chassis, and the JConcepts steering because I think it's a necessary thing. I did buy some heavy duty RPM ball cups (rod ends), and they don't fit with the front castor rod ball stud in the stock position on the shock tower because it hits the rod end on the steering arm, so I moved the ball stud up to the right to an open hole but now the steering rod hits the castor rod end (as you can barely see in the one picture on the "passenger" side of the car). Anyone have a solution for this besides going back to the stock ball ends? I was thinking of moving the castor rod in front of the shock tower but then it hits the shock spring. Sucks because I bought two packs of these RPM rod ends. I guess I'll have to go back to stock, or does anyone know if the low friction associated ball cups are the same size as the stock rc10?

[badcrc]

The original rear universals were 1/4 inch the re-re version are 3/16. Associated used the same part number on the re-re part as the original.

Thanks for the info, the ones I have are tapered and measure 3/16" at spot where the threads end up to the taper, and 1/4" after the taper where it goes into the bearing, so I guess that's considered 1/4".

[bully]

Yeah mate..

[aeiou]

You have a couple of possible options for solving the issue with the steering and camber links hitting. If you stay with the RPM cups, you can try using use one of the low-height ball studs - 9145 or 3981 - on the tower and / or bell cranks. Or, replace those 4 inward cups with 7230 (which I think are the same dimensions as the low-friction). These cups are about the same height as the stock cups, but have longer shanks and are more reinforced overall. There may be others out there that'll also work, but these are the ones I've used before in this application.

All that said, I haven't really worked with the JConcepts steering kit yet, so I don't know how it compares to others, especially in how high up off the chassis it places the ball studs.

I used both the 3981 ball studs and the 7230 cups on my Worlds ReRe racer build to fix a similar issue where the inward RPM cups were contacting each other during steering at nearly full compression. I'm using the Worlds bell cranks that came with the kit. I replaced the studs on the shock tower and bell cranks as well as all 4 inward cups. Had I not used the thicker carbon fiber shock tower, I'm pretty sure the studs alone would have provided enough clearance for the RPM cups. It was that close.