Wider suspension arms

[fredswain]

I could easily bury this in the 2.2 thread but I felt the benefits were more then just running 2.2's. As we all know, modern cars run wider arms than the older car. The arms are all equal length now. The older car ran shorter arms in front with even the longer rear arms still being shorter than modern arms. Jake makes a set of longer delrin arms that many use that allow B4 style wheels to be used with no wide axles up front and no spacers or different offset wheels at the rear. I wanted to take this a bit farther. I wanted the arms to be wider but look like they came on the car. I modeled a stock RC10 front arm and then widened it to account for the offset. Basically what Jake did with his except I used the standard nose and arms rather than a modified world's/dynotech style front end. Here's the first result that I had 3D printed compared to a stock RC10 arm. It's very close but I'm not quite happy with it. I need to go 1/8" longer. By using the standard RC10 spindles and carriers it'll give proper front end width with B4 wheels but with the more favorable scrub radius of them which the wide axles can't give.

I'm working on a rear arm as well. I've accidentally discovered that I can widen the rear arms a bit to allow B4 hubs to be used with B4 axles and by doing this I'll have equal length arms all around. They aren't as wide as modern arms but it should be an improvement and should also look basically stock. I'll post pics when I get them all done.

[scr8p]

Look nice.

I did that a couple years ago, though they are machined.

[fredswain]

Those will probably take more of an impact but I don't have any current access to a cnc.

[mk-Zero]

Nice work! I'd be interested in a set of these down the road for my B1M project, I think they would go great on that car.

[mikea96]

Those look good!

[Seabass]

Its cool to see these longer nylon arms being discussed again.

Nice work on the arms, I really need to get my 3d skills nailed down so I can start doing some of this print work as well.

Jake

[broodenburg]

I'm sure it is on the forum somewhere, but what would be a perfect "buggy width" front and rear? I don't race so that's not a problem.

I've mounted b4.2 front steeringblocks and rear hubs with b4 cvd's on my B3 (thanks fredswain!). Front looks a fraction narrower than de rear, should that be exactly the same?

[askbob]

Those arms are cool. Would like to have a set that looked like the AE arms.

[mk-Zero]

Are you going to put those on Shapeways? I'd like to try a set when i get the b1m going. And longer rears, too, if you design them...

[RC104ever]

Would love to have wider front arms without having to do a truck front end. Are the RPM arms the same length as the worlds arms or would they be similar to these?

[JK Racing]

I'd also be interested in a full set...lazy me, I just want to use the wheels I have tons of already instead of buying 2 sets of everything for racing

[fredswain]

These are Shapeways parts. I've got lots of things in Shapeways that are visible to the public but nothing for sale. I won't put anything for sale that I haven't verified to work. I haven't received the updated versions of these yet and I'm not done with the rear arms. They'll have a stock but wider appearance as well. If those work out correctly, they'll use B4 rear hubs, cvd's, and wheels.

The front arms have kept the same shock mount locations in relation to the distance ratio of the inner to outer hinge pin distance. This means that they've moved outwards a little bit which will lay the shocks over more compared to the stock arms. That may not be an issue but I personally intend to make a new front tower to keep the shock angle the same. I'm also planning to use the inner most camber link location from an original RC10 tower rather than the standard inner location from the later towers.

Again, this may not all be necessary but it's what I'm planning to use on my car.

[RichieRich]

I like these. Great work. I'm going to keep an eye on this thread.

[JK Racing]

I dont mind testing for ya

[fredswain]

There's one thing to note about Shapeways parts. It may have been mentioned elsewhere such as Niki's thread and I just missed it. Colored parts in Shapeways are still just white parts. Only the outside layer is colored. This includes black. Only the white gives me the option to get them with a polished finish, which I think looks much nicer. I'd recommend getting them in white polished and then dying them if you want different colors.

Due to wall thickness issues in one spot, I made the screw holes small. They are too small to self thread so they need to be drilled out a little bit. I did it on the prototypes and they work but they definitely aren't like injection molded parts where you can just install them with no additional work.