Stealth Trans woes

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pumpkinfish
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Stealth Trans woes

Post by pumpkinfish »

Today I took apart my stealth to put in a B4 top shaft and slipper. When I assemble the trans, the slipper hub rubs the motor plate. When I did this mod in my ReRe I had zero issues. I am using all new B4 parts and bought the same for each vehicle. Anyone else run into this issue? I hate to cut down the plastic spacers since I don't know how I could get all four to the same height.

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Re: Stealth Trans woes

Post by slow_jun »

can post some pics of the plate rubbing the slipper?there is a very small gap between the back slipper plate and motor plate, you can shim the inside of the top shaft ( left outer most bearing)
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pumpkinfish
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Re: Stealth Trans woes

Post by pumpkinfish »

Here is the pictures. Not the best but all my Galaxy S3 can do. You can see how it is rubbing. I checked the top shaft and have sucha small amount of movement. I know you said to shim it, but if I add a shim, the shaft doesn't have any play at all.

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Re: Stealth Trans woes

Post by Charlie don't surf »

Backspacing shims are needed between the bearing and shaft on left side case. Bet you have side to side slop on.the shaft-

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Re: Stealth Trans woes

Post by pumpkinfish »

Charlie, I have a slight play as I indicated above, maybe a hair. When I took the trans apart it didn't have shims. What size should I be using? When I took apart the one for my ReRe, I used Avid bearing since it had bushings. Are the Avids thicker than the kit bearings?

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Re: Stealth Trans woes

Post by Charlie don't surf »

Shim thickness depends on top-shaft, early B4 shafts came with spacers...later black gear ones don't (I think)

pumpkinfish
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Re: Stealth Trans woes

Post by pumpkinfish »

Finally figured it out. I used two rear axle shims in the case and still had to take a hair off the spacers and the screws need to be dead even with the plate face. I used part number 9601 and it had a black gear on it and no spacers in the bag.

That being said the top shaft doesn't rotate as free as it was without the shims. I'm not thrilled about that but when pushing it on the floor it free rolls a decent distance.

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Re: Stealth Trans woes

Post by Charlie don't surf »

Super thin pan car front axel shims between the case halves let you crank the case tight, without the binding

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Re: Stealth Trans woes

Post by scr8p »

Maybe the hubs are machined wrong. Did you try the slipper from the other one you built? The flat spots on the topshaft may be milled towards the gear too far, too.

pumpkinfish
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Re: Stealth Trans woes

Post by pumpkinfish »

I did try the slipper setup from my ReRe and it was the same. It leads me to believe that the flat spots are milled to far. Since I didn't want to take apart my buggy, that is the only thing I didn't measure/compare.

Just waiting on electronics in the mail to run the truck and see how it shakes out at speed.

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Re: Stealth Trans woes

Post by bully »

Goin by the big brass bushing on the top shaft near spring u have the wrong or no top shaft spacer at all behind back slipper plate. Don't have part number handy but its b4 t4 top shaft spacer. With spacer u need to open up rh side case hole just enough to fit the b4 top shaft spacer thru so it sits on internal case bearing an not case otherwise it will drag when u tighten slipper an melt case. Only open enough for spacer or grit could enter bearing. PS the b4 top shaft isn't supplied with spacer u must buy seperately

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Re: Stealth Trans woes

Post by pumpkinfish »

Interesting you bring that up. In my ReRe, I just dropped in the shaft and assembled it with no issue. I didn't need any spaces so I did this one the same. Do you have a link to a 2.25 trans assembled the correct way? I have run the truck one day so far in practice and the trans seemed to be fine, and the case shows no signs of wear or heat.

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bully
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Re: Stealth Trans woes

Post by bully »

This the best i can do for now. Pic with shaft in u can see where spacer should be you can see where it will hit case, you can see how i opened up hole just enough 4 correct spacer in pics an finished properly. The top shaft spacer is essential. Also you wouldn't notice any burning or wear on the case because you had no spacer at all,the only thing stopping your back slipper hub is the motor plate an probably the end of the machined section on shaft... No one probably mentioned it b4 about the spacer because it is essential an probably thought you new about it, but b4 top shaft an slipper hubs require the 9602 spacer to work period... Buy cpl :mrgreen:
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bully
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Re: Stealth Trans woes

Post by bully »

By the way the spacer is 7.9mm long, 6.22mm outer diameter, 4.65mm internal diameter. Part number is ASC9602 for top shaft spacer mate, good luck. By the way the flat sections on shaft aren't there to stop slipper disk only to key the slipper plate, shaft spacer is only there to stop slipper plate in correct position.

pumpkinfish
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Re: Stealth Trans woes

Post by pumpkinfish »

Interesting. Since pictures are blurry what I think I see is the spacer goes over the shaft and into the case and rests on the bearing. Correct?

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