I cant title this project, project....T1.5

[sbcnyc]

so, while ive been home recouping some bone realignment (the unfun kind) ive gotten acquainted with this beyond awesome forum and all the sick, trick, colorful, real use and all things that a rc10 can be....really has helped me fight the cabin fever

after a few amazing reads on some badass builds, i had to try my hand at giving a pile of bulletproof Gt parts, a scuffed pan, and a few other ebay scores, a second life into something that could hang with store bought (borrrrrrring) new stuff, i guess this is a WOIN build...

the real step by step work hasnt been documented and im short a few parts, i butchered a shock tower and truck nose trying my hand at a long arm buggy front end, which will be part of a future build, but was the base for what this truck turned into, but its close enough to share, minus a body, and trimming and mounting the front battery hold down

with too many gt parts, including a full spare transmission...i wanted to use as much as i could, with what i had, and what interchanges i learned here, so spares could be had, i didnt achieve total availability but i dont think the parts that are rare are too prone (t2 bulkhead, rpm t2 rear arm mounts, major score)

so this isnt a museum, crisp, out of the box, perfect hardware, polished resto, super rare trick parts...just something i can throw a brushless/lipo setup and tear it up, maybe even race it if there was any place to give it a go (possible vonats participant?) i built this thing like my gt, knowing all the problem areas already, fingers crossed on the rear bulkhead, and arm mounts

i got the pan with a mangled motor plate (which is why i had to cut it so far, trust me, it was REAL bad), almost complete 6 gear (if anyone needs outdrives with blown out bearings but minty drive slots....), servo with mounts and the front battery hold...for 9 bux... yea... 9 bux... note to ebay hoarders, the best stuff is usually mislabeled, in this case rc1o.... super super SCORE!!!

on the finish me up list...

brushless/lipo something or other, b4 slipper, t4 cvd kit, turnbuckles, possible extended nose plate for added wheelbase to match a t4 (anyone got the numbers?) and of course a body of some kind, leaning towards newer jconcepts...

anyways... this is where the nameless project sits as of yesterday, please feel free to suggest some...just got home from stuffing my face and opened my apartment door to a landfill of tools, parts, shavings... so i figured id share on this day of thanks...

[klavy69]

cool project. Always good to see a gold pan truck. Don't have to be pristine to be here either...otherwise I wouldn't fit in . Keep up with the updates...

Todd

[sbcnyc]

in the immortal words of dr emmett brown... "if your gonna build a time machine, why not do it with some style"

just waiting on the front tower to finish the roller, i took a total guess at the shock setup, feels stiff but i wont know till i come up with a brushless setup and battery

wheelbase seems short to me, placing my newer proline gt body on it seems to fit, i know the blue gt is longer. ill run it as is to get a feel for it, before i make a longer nose (cant change the rear wheelbase, too much angle on the bones reward) i know the truck and buggy tubs are the same, but i think using the t2 gearbox might have me a few mm forward which makes sense why they changed the chassis for the t2

playing with a way foward nose plate that will clear a 90 degree bellcrank so i can put the servo sideways and foward to give more battery room and better weight transfer

it will evolve... now... to find some indoor offroad!!

[sbcnyc]

so no real progress other than b4.1 front castor blocks, sure you all know what those look like...

im stuck with a wheelbase snafu... i know the t4 is like 11.3'' ,thats what associated has it listed as, but im clueless to the adjustment in the rear carriers, how much does it vary?

no matter where i search, cant find numbers for the t2, i know 11.5 is max but that sounds like a dragster instead of a offroad truck, with my stock gt rear arms, i set the hub carriers back, my welfare truck is roughly 11 inches axle to axle, i say roughly due to a tape measure and not a solid ruler... does 11'' sounds right?

what im really trying to figure out is, on the t2, theres two sets of nose brace holes on the tub, im trying to figure out the final measurement with each set, ive seen the t2 buggy conversions and cutting and drilling back the chassis, it has me thinking, using the truck nose plate on the gold pan, im in t / t2 truck short wheelbase? using the rear holes on my nose plate... the only chassis i have to compare with is a black gt tub (which i found, lining up the gold pan 6 gear holes, with the bulkhead holes on the gt tub, match a set of trans mount holes on the black tub, WITH the holes i drilled for the T2 trans... which leaves the nose plate holes 10mm longer on the gt, is the t2 pan that length too???)

than i got thrown off again, due to the t2 servo mount.... has anyone ever noticed they moved it up by using a hole in the nose plate? which got me stumped again because if i move my servo up, the battery strap now looks clear of everything and makes the gold pan seem that its the same length.... ughhhh wah wah wah....

i found a pdf manual for the t2, but no where in the manual does is suggest moving the nose plate for wheelbase change, only the rear carrier spacer...

im going through all this so i can cut and drill my custom nose plate with the correct wheelbase! i guess i should just say F it and shoot for the t4 number, being that im streching out the width

i did figure out my forward servo setup though! it will finish the t4'ish layout once i get the stupid wheelbase figured out... geezs all these brain farts in the name of nose tubes and all that is gold pan!

[sbcnyc]

fleegay parts truck! really good price and free shipping!!!

bid next to nothing last night against my better judgement, but i figured i need turnbuckles and a few odds and ends, and i saw these....

didnt think much about it, if i lost i wasnt gonna be too upset...low and behold... charlie sheen style... winning...

psyched! check out the turnbuckles and steering bellcrank... cant wait till it gets here

[GoMachV]

Looks like technacraft/tecnacraft (lol) turnbuckles...I have a set too. I think lundsfords were stronger but I like the looks of these better.

The steering is stock t2/gt but is a great upgrade for a buggy too. Getting hard to find complete...I know I'm looking for a spare too

Great find on the rpm stuff

[sbcnyc]

Looks like technacraft/tecnacraft (lol) turnbuckles...I have a set too. I think lundsfords were stronger but I like the looks of these better.

The steering is stock but is a great upgrade for a buggy

all the lusdfords(lol) i have are too short! didnt want to spend money on new ones until i have the lengths worked out... upon more coffee and further inspection... u are correct sir, the bellcranks are stock...i was fooled by the caked on dirt making the plastic look dull...

its amazing how many sets of rpm rear arm mounts i have for my gt, and it still has the first set i ever bought for it, in yellow! i wish the T mounts were just as available

[knucklebuster]

I picked up a beat $40 10t on epay just for those turnbuckles.

Your lucky sbc, I had that gt in my sights for a mid-motor brushless truck

[sbcnyc]

I picked up a beat $40 10t on epay just for those turnbuckles.

Your lucky sbc, I had that gt in my sights for a mid-motor brushless truck

ha, i was gonna do the same to another tub gt i have, way easier to do it to a blue pan, pain to work around the tub, i was plotting around it pre gold tub find...

ill gladly pirate all the good parts and let you have at what i dont need...

i guess, in a way, this build IS a brushless gt! with a lil style, gold pan with as much gt guts as i could fit...

hows about a lil update?

[sbcnyc]

more shots...

[uniquenamehere]

Wow, that looks great! Well done!

[scr8p]

your wheelbase seems short to you because you have the nose plate in the wrong holes for a truck setting on a buggy chassis. the t2 tub is longer, so you mount it using the short wheelbase holes. it's the opposite on a buggy/10t chassis.

[sbcnyc]

your wheelbase seems short to you because you have the nose plate in the wrong holes for a truck setting on a buggy chassis. the t2 tub is longer, so you mount it using the short wheelbase holes. it's the opposite on a buggy/10t chassis.

well, asking charlie about my wheelbase, he said im good and not to worry, im on the number...

my nose plate is in the rear holes (my bell crank is the shorter gt, not original, longer length 10t) using the truck bulkhead, the rear holes are the only holes you can use with truck nose tubes, the t2 chassis is just longer in general, with no arm mount adjustment in the rear, only the hub carriers, so they made the whole front longer, i couldnt find any measurements on the length of a t2 with the nose plate in its forward nose tube holes, or even the stock axle to axle wheelbase

i actually cut out a blue gt plate to fit the gold tub, and using buggy nose tubes on the truck bulkhead (fitting them into the notches), it would extend the front about a quarter inch, center to center on the nose tube holes, but than id have a ride height issue, castor issue, and a bunch of stuff i cant fix with a hammer, drill and file...

i moved the servo up into the t2 position by drilling the pan where the truck nose plate has an extra hole, i think with a slim servo, i can flip the bellcrank and get the servo dead center in the chassis, dont really like the offset but whatever, how much weight could it be transferring?

my concern was with the t2 rear mounts and my trans placement, t2 arm mounts sit further back than gt mounts but not as far as originals, i just crossed my fingers and studied as many left side photos of T's to see where the end of the arm lined up with the original 6 gear holes... turned out i got lucky with minimal driveshaft angle (pointing towards the rear)

wanted to come close to a t4, but now with time to think about it, the 10t/t2 arm throw is shorter, even if you extend the scrub radius with t4 castor blocks and cvd's, the tiny bit of wheelbase extension could hurt, i hate to say it, but thats why my xxxnt handles so much better than my gt, narrow bulkheads with really long arms afford you more wheelbase, but you can slam a gt into a brick wall over and over and not worry about it

[sbcnyc]

el cheapo gt score turned into a bust, i shouldnt complain for the price but theres a few ingenious repairs and dremel work that would put helen keller to shame

dont have the time to take pictures right now but ill post some tonight after work

just like i thought, the only worthy parts ended up being correct rpm rc10t rear arm mounts (and 3 deg, i saw a set go for 30 bux!) shockingly mint nose plate, set of 3 piece front wheels, salvageable front rpm arms, some decent hardware, and the slightly tweaked tecnacraft turnbuckles.... the big shocker was pulling the gearbox, fingers crossed i was hoping for full metal.... well, i got the rrp idler, and a aluminum diff... problem is the outdrives are JB WELDED to the diff, how de shiz am i gonna get this apart!?!?

cant win em all, but after the T's build, i got yet another slew of spares, and a clean gt tub from way back, going to build that as a boring brushless midmotor conversion, but set it up identical to the T and see the head to head, i gotta rethink the layout using the black tub due to the weight difference vs the blue pan, but with shorty lipo's... i think i can get a good weight balance even being a tight fit, and yet again, i think i already have the servo placement worked out..

im back real world working, so build time has been cut drastically...but... ill have ample bux for all the hardparts... im dying to get the T going, hard to do the whole new age electronics upgrade in one fell swoop...

[jwscab]

if you have a toaster oven, you can put that gear and diff halves in there about 250-300 degrees, that should break down the jbweld. might stink though.