Diff slipping
Diff slipping
Hi all
My diff seems to be slipping since I rebuilt it. I have set it up as per book but still slips. I have to back the slipper off to stop it from screaming.
Has anyone got any ideas?
Thanks
TJF
My diff seems to be slipping since I rebuilt it. I have set it up as per book but still slips. I have to back the slipper off to stop it from screaming.
Has anyone got any ideas?
Thanks
TJF
Still building my RC10
- Eau Rouge
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6-gear, Stealth, B4 Stealth, Losi, MIP or what?
Need some more infor before any help can be offered. I can tell you DO NOT slip the slipper just to get it to not make noise... you'll burn stuff up in a hurry. If it's slipping, figure out what the problem is before running it anymore. The slipper has only a few small purposes, and one of them is NOT to control the diff action or slippage.
When you rebuilt is, did you use all new diff parts? I'm assuming it's an original Stealth, but for any tranny with a slipper, it should be the same build steps. If the diff is used, and you rebuilt it, the most important parts in the whole thing are the thrust balls, washers and the diff screw assembly. The diff nut and spring might not look like much, but after a few rebuilds, they need to be replaced.
Odds are the diff nut (the plastic thing with ears on the back of the diff that the diff screw threads into) is worn and isn't holding a diff setting.
Still, could use more info to assist more.
doug
Need some more infor before any help can be offered. I can tell you DO NOT slip the slipper just to get it to not make noise... you'll burn stuff up in a hurry. If it's slipping, figure out what the problem is before running it anymore. The slipper has only a few small purposes, and one of them is NOT to control the diff action or slippage.
When you rebuilt is, did you use all new diff parts? I'm assuming it's an original Stealth, but for any tranny with a slipper, it should be the same build steps. If the diff is used, and you rebuilt it, the most important parts in the whole thing are the thrust balls, washers and the diff screw assembly. The diff nut and spring might not look like much, but after a few rebuilds, they need to be replaced.
Odds are the diff nut (the plastic thing with ears on the back of the diff that the diff screw threads into) is worn and isn't holding a diff setting.
Still, could use more info to assist more.
doug
Right well its the stealth tranny. I basically replaced the transmission case as the screws were a little loose where it screws to the chassis. I thought as I had it apart I would rebuild the diff. I replaced the rings and balls but all the rest is just cleaned and put back together with new grease etc. I've never had a problem with diffs before and I have built and rebuilt all different types many times. I had this problem once before and I put a little cyano on the back of the rings so they dont slip and that worked well.
Thanks
TJF
Thanks
TJF
Still building my RC10
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instead of putting ca glue on my diff ringg here is what i do.i have taken all of my aluminum 2.25 outdrives that i use for racing and with the assistance of my drill press an end mill and a cross slide milling vise i cut them to accept a d-ring. i machine the round ring mount into a D shape so i can use any losi style or tc3 d-ring. i realize not everybody has this kind of equipment but it works unbelieveable and i dont have to use glue and damage the outdrive. i can run the diff a little looser than stock without the anoying squeal or chatter you usually have. this also allows the diff to free wheel more on tight corners when off power and increases corner speed for oval. the noise that comes out of an associated round ring diff is usually due to ring slippage and usually gauls or scratches aluminum outdrives causing the rings to not sit flush. i have ran my oval cars this way for 4 years with very little matinance or problems.
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