Yeah, it turns out those bearings don't fit. I should've checked sooner. Do you want me to send them back to you?
Oh, wait, I've blown my cover. Dang.
How is the oval car coming?
. . . you have Associated Green Slime for brains. And not even new Green Slime, but old gooped out Green Slime.
really, don't fit where? should fit wheels and rear hubs. odd.
you don't need to send them back, i don't need'em, i don't run flanged bearings on anything.
nothing new on the oval car, been spending my time on that durango i won @ the vonats.
i did race @ rchr last night, with my b4 in 17.5 class, good times!
Oh, the outside diameter fits the rear hubs. The inside diameter is small for the stock stub axles, but maybe some modern axles will fit.
The ID fits around the stock front axles, too large OD for the wheels.
. . . you have Associated Green Slime for brains. And not even new Green Slime, but old gooped out Green Slime.
Anyway,
The Novak SS may be a great motor, but spending less money is always nice. Any suggestions for a competitive, reliable motor in the $60 range?
I could probably get an SS off ebay.
. . . you have Associated Green Slime for brains. And not even new Green Slime, but old gooped out Green Slime.
That's one reason I was looking at Brushless Hobbies. It's cheap, from a US based company, and a proven design. I'm just wondering about cs.
The Novak gtb2/Ballistic combo squeezes into my price range, but I'd like to spend less. The $120 one doesn't have some features I'd like. I'm looking at doing local club racing with this motor, so boost would be nice.
With a Hobbywing/BH esc, you can buy a second one if #1 fails and only come off slightly worse than a name bramd esc. Some good reports of Stan's customer service would seal the deal.
If I were to go buy a system now, it would probably be a BH 120 esc and a Novak SS.
Why is the HW customer service bad? Did they refuse to replace the esc? Were they rude?
. . . you have Associated Green Slime for brains. And not even new Green Slime, but old gooped out Green Slime.
about a year and a half ago bought xerun 150amp esc w/2250 kv snesored motor.(1/8 scale system)
on the second battery about 2 minutes in the sensor came loose inside the motor, dropped into the motor, taking out the motor and esc.
took me 3 weeks to get a reply from them. they had the nerve to tell me that i used the wrong battery (4s), clearly the esc is rated up to 6s.
i wasn't about to pay to ship the thing to china with a good chance of them not fixing it under warranty.
and only god knows how long it would take to get back.
i haven't bought a hw since.
the day it happened i bought a tekin rx8 1900kv combo and have been a happy camper ever since. the 1900kv tekin is faster then the 2250kv hw to boot!
85Edinger wrote: Some good reports of Stan's customer service would seal the deal.
If I were to go buy a system now, it would probably be a BH 120 esc and a Novak SS.
I dont know if anyone else on this board has BH speedo's but myself. I did have some cogging issues when using boost on my 80a/17.5 Novak SS combo. Turned out (after e mails back and forth with Stan over the span of a few hours), I was pulling too much from my batteries and hitting the LVC shutting the system off (brown out). I changed the LVC and went to a higher C rated pack and was happy afterwards. I have e mailed him other times asking about ROAR certification, he only responded with "in the works". My speedo's have worked flawlessly, I havent had the need to seek out his CS. I have read the same complaints you see on RCTECH, and feel for those racers. I will probably order another one or 2 from him, but I wont be getting the 120a model. I have asked in the thread (on RCTECH) more than once and no one reported an 80a failure. That makes me personally feel comfortable.
On your decision about the motor, purchase what you feel most comfortable with, d3.5 has a separate sensor wire that can be replace the SS doesnt. I personally like both, so I wont offer up one over the other.
--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
It's possible that the failure rate is equal for both esc's, but more people bought the 120. Maybe the lower capabilities of the 80a meant that no one pushed it past its breaking point because they were more cautious.
Oh, who am I kidding? Something must be up with the 120s.
Think a 5000mah 25c SPC would be adequate for a 17.5 with boost?
The Xerun esc's are roar approved, why not the same ESC with better FET's?
. . . you have Associated Green Slime for brains. And not even new Green Slime, but old gooped out Green Slime.
not knowing the exact scenario, the BH speedos, even though they are clones, must be submitted to ROAR and tested to ensure they are legal. I dont know where they are in that process.
I regularly run my 10.5 on my 80a speedo, no fan on either motor or speedo. No issues for me.
Heck, in the end, who knows. I am happy with mine.
--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
Anyway, it'll be a few months before I can buy it. I'll post a review.
Those motors that come with the cheap Novak Club Spec look a lot like the SS. Are they the same?
. . . you have Associated Green Slime for brains. And not even new Green Slime, but old gooped out Green Slime.
A brushless newbie, that is... :wink: I just snagged an LRP AI Brushless Pro esc on the bay and was curious of a decent motor on the cheap. Probably a 13.5T or 15.5T at the lowest. Still haven't nailed down the kv equivilents. :oops: It'll probably...
Last post
For the AI/LRP, its not fast out of the hole, its just steady fast. My Yoke goes just a smidge faster than my son's Rustler with a stock set up and the 8 cell battery. I run Venom hard case 4200 mah saddle pack battery with it.
As the title says , I'd like to know how reliable an old vintage ESC would be , something like a Novak 410 for instance , I like to run my cars so any electronics need to work plus I don't want to ruin a nice vintage bit of kit by using it .
So are...
Last post
I run several vintage ESC and motor combinations and have no issues. I don't run lipo. NiMh and some older 3000 mAh NiCds - everything works just fine. I have a couple Optima Mid's and my favorite has a LeMans 240SB (that's an old 30,000 RRM mill)...
Anyone know of a cheaper alternative for something like this? I'd need 2 and $400 is kinda steep. Even if they're not this high, maybe 8-9000mah. Did a bit of searching, but no luck.
Last post
Gens Ace :D
10 minute mains with a 5.5 motor in my SC10 4x4..no problem
For a few years now, I've been trying to find a nice way to display my small HO-scale slot car collection and never could find what I was looking for. A lot of guys buy those cheap plastic dollar-store containers with the dividers inside, but since...
Last post
Thanks Matt! It took me 2 solid evenings to rebuild all of the cars to get them all working properly again. I had my track set up for a few months 2 Christmases ago, but after putting the track away, it seemed a shame to stuff all the cars in a box,...
This RC12LW eBay find I'm cleaning up is coming along pretty well but I'm going to have to address the diff problem. And by 'diff problem' I mean that it's missing half of it.
Working from left to right, I have up to and including the diff balls...
Last post
I would opt for the 3 bolt hubs as you can use modern wheels, or better yet a 3/2 pattern hub so you can fit either 3 bolt or 2 bolt rims, plus you don’t have to disassemble the axle every time you want to change tires.
ok ive never even looked at a brushless motor in person i never needed to but it seems like i just need (want) a littlle more i want to take my gold pan and do one of these wats old is new cars ive been seeing on here they ROCK but sadly i know...
Im sure you guys have probably been asked this several times before and im sorry if it has but my searches on here didn't reveal much. So anyways I am looking for a good brushless combo for the sc10.2 that will be good for racing yet controllable....
Last post
I swear by the Hobbywing V3.1 and whatever motor fits into your class. The V3.1 really shines when you start introducing dynamic timing, but also seems to have more power in blinky classes. It also has the smoothest power delivery of any ESC that...