OK no more Rock Talk lets get down to Building. I thought about this one when the slash first came out i got 2 of them . then the SC10 shots showd up oh ya sexy i thought. I did some drawing and marking on my best friend for building material( sheet of G-10) Then came that gold tub stretch shot that was all it took Here we go you bunch of crazy SOBs [/img][/img][/img]
I get that you wanted to splice to chassis plates together,
but I don't understand why you didn't mate one to the other instead of adding the sliver.
It's going to be a mess structurally, no?
Ya it would have been better to use two full then Short & long cut then graph. but i didn't want to murder one good chassis for this project. I had the other chassis i got in a Bay parts buy that was hacked up real bad . I don't know what they used it for or what they used the stuff they cut off for but i kept it around thinkn it might be good for something and the center left just happend to increase the wheelbase needed for the truck. it will have a liittle warping but i think it will be cool for the build. I figure i used one chunk of metal , to make another with some coolness Welded her up tonight
badhoopty wrote:post some pics of it welded for petes sake!!
just to let you guys know that welding 7075 does not work it has too much zinc in it.
wikapedia- 7075 is an aluminium alloy, with zinc as the alloying element. It is strong, with good fatigue strength and average machinability, but is not weldable and has less resistance to corrosion than many other alloys. Its relatively high cost limits its use to applications where cheaper alloys are not suitable.7075 is widely used for construction of aircraft structures, such as wings and fuselages. [3] Its strength and light weight are also desirable in other fields. Rock climbing equipment, bicycle components, and hang gliders are commonly made from 7075 aluminium alloy. The bicycle industry is also using 7005 and 6061 aluminium alloys. Hobby grade R/C's commonly use 7075-T6 and 6061 for chassis plates. One interesting use for 7075 is in the manufacture of M16 rifles for the American military. It is also commonly used in shafts for lacrosse sticks.
Due to its strength, low density, thermal properties and its polishability 7075 is widely used in mould tool manufacture. This alloy has been further refined into other 7000 series alloys for this application namely 7050 and 7020.
badhoopty wrote:post some pics of it welded for petes sake!!
just to let you guys know that welding 7075 does not work it has too much zinc in it.
wikapedia- 7075 is an aluminium alloy, with zinc as the alloying element. It is strong, with good fatigue strength and average machinability, but is not weldable and has less resistance to corrosion than many other alloys. Its relatively high cost limits its use to applications where cheaper alloys are not suitable.7075 is widely used for construction of aircraft structures, such as wings and fuselages. [3] Its strength and light weight are also desirable in other fields. Rock climbing equipment, bicycle components, and hang gliders are commonly made from 7075 aluminium alloy. The bicycle industry is also using 7005 and 6061 aluminium alloys. Hobby grade R/C's commonly use 7075-T6 and 6061 for chassis plates. One interesting use for 7075 is in the manufacture of M16 rifles for the American military. It is also commonly used in shafts for lacrosse sticks.
Due to its strength, low density, thermal properties and its polishability 7075 is widely used in mould tool manufacture. This alloy has been further refined into other 7000 series alloys for this application namely 7050 and 7020.
The chassis is made from 6061-T6 and it can be welded. But it will more then likely warp with the two welds being as close as they are. Soncho ponza if you need a hand with this I maybe able to help.
noony wrote:The chassis is made from 6061-T6 and it can be welded. But it will more then likely warp with the two welds being as close as they are. Soncho ponza if you need a hand with this I maybe able to help.
Did her up last night ,few beers ( think it makes the hands steadier) now need to do some grinding she came together nice. after i grind the welds i might want to go back and do some filling. you always think how you could have done it differently after you get going. You know u could do it in a fraction of the time the second time.
1--insulate around the welds
2--secure the chassis tighter to base
3--drink less beer
4--maybe drink more beer
Ground more material off around weld line before starting from first two pictures [/img][/img][/img][/img][/img]
Something you might consider, and would give you some added strength,
would be to get a sheet of 2mm CF and cut out a piece that's the side of the centersection of the pan and just bolt it inside the tub.
Wouldn't increase the weight, or raise the CoG, that much - but I bet you'd never have to worry about breaking it.
Here she is in her rough glory what u all think--Ya why not spec class legal put slash elecs in and kick some ass . Just got another slash yesterday makes three in my stable. none of them will look as cool as this one when shes done. Time to start grindn and a smoothn. My 10t racer 4m project will show you the support system im putting in it [/img][/img]
The NW shortcourse is set for May 15th in Pasco Wash. The event seems to have an issue regarding hybrid trucks ---My sc10t is not allowed to race the event...(I WAS ONLY GOING TO RACE HER IN MOD) that also means any xxxt lxt schumacher traxxus cust...
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Hey EvolutionRevolution thanks, think it came out well. :D
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Yes ur prob right . I've never had on road car so not used to them at all
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Another little update.
Got a set of M4 Proline Primes for this. Seems to be what everyone runs at the track we go to. The car is still working pretty well, I'm fairly happy with it. Current shock setup: