RC10B3 4WD

General discussion, builds/restorations, etc...

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Mr. ED
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Re: RC10B3 4WD

Post by Mr. ED »

mmmm, I think I'd rather have steel pins and plastic outdrives with anti-spread rings on the end instead

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Re: RC10B3 4WD

Post by klavy69 »

Damn cool project. You got way too much time on your hands :mrgreen: . Can't wait to see more about it though .....
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Re: RC10B3 4WD

Post by wyldbill »

i have been using the same pin cushions in aluminum cvd bones and aluminum outdrives in my 10t based oval truck for the past 2 years with virtually zero wear. this is in my weekly racer that gets used in the stock trucks class. the only trick i use is i grind down the legnth of the steel inserted pin a few thousanths and when re inserted space the pin with equal distance space on either end so i can fill the small cavity with superglue. the reason i do this is sometimes the steel pin can slide out like halfway and the plastic will not so the glue has prevented that. i tore grooves into many rear arm mounts and spur gears and smoked 1 GM3 motor before i firgued that little trick. with all that aluminum in the drive train the truck rockets off a corner,the accelleration is unbelievable, espically in a truck turning 4" schumacher tires.

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Bugle
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Re: RC10B3 4WD

Post by Bugle »

Yea i was worried about the pin sliding out, that'd ruin the front gearbox. Do you just superglue the pin with pincushion into the original hole and it stays ok?

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Re: RC10B3 4WD

Post by wyldbill »

[[quoteDo you just superglue the pin with pincushion into the original hole and it stays ok?
[/quote]
if the pin were glued in you could not get it back out if it needed to be replaced due to wear. actually the plastic sleve is slightly larger in diameter than the dogbone hole. you slide the plastic sleve into the bone, center it, then insert the steel pin. when you slide in the pin there are tiny ribbs inside the sleve that expand the sleve when inserted and keeps it tight. however i do have 1 set in my edm car that for some reason the pin seems to walk out. i have seen some dogbone pins once removed that were serrated to keep them in place and others not. they were both mip bones but had different pins. so i just had to dimple the aera next to the hole in an effort to slightly deform the hole, this has worked well and has not walked out since.

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Bugle
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Re: RC10B3 4WD

Post by Bugle »

I made the aluminium outdrives and the outdrive blade thingos, i'll use pincushions on the CVD pins I think. Made it D-drive, I can still use normal rings if I want. They weigh 4g vs 10g for originals.

Broke my 2mm end mill doing the slot on that CVD so i've gotta wait til next week to get another one..
Attachments
outdrives.jpg
outdrive2.jpg
outdrive3.jpg

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bearrickster
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Re: RC10B3 4WD

Post by bearrickster »

thats cool great Job!
LOSI RULES!!

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http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=16714

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Re: RC10B3 4WD

Post by Mr. ED »

Wooooow
you're the CNC wizz of the forum

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Re: RC10B3 4WD

Post by adam lancia »

Is that freehand or CNC Bugle? Either way, they look great! Both the outdrives and the blades, nice work.

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Bugle
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Re: RC10B3 4WD

Post by Bugle »

It's all done by hand :)

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Re: RC10B3 4WD

Post by wyldbill »

i take all my aluminum outdrives and make them accept d-rings as well. i can use either losi d-rings or tc3 d-rings. i.r.s sells d-rings in packs of like 10 or so, thats what i use.

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Re: RC10B3 4WD

Post by Bugle »

Got an anodising setup working, did a few test pieces to start with in red, blue and gold. The gold dye looked like the chassis tub gold on the packet but came out pale gold like the chassis screws, gonna have to try a darker orange.. My dad made the constant current power supply for it, cathodes are really thin Al printers plate clamped onto Al tubes. Hanging the bits by Al mig welding wire fixed with Al thumb screws I made and some pegs on the top tube to give it a good connection. Had to keep everything above/in the acid aluminium because any steel will ruin it.

First actual parts I tried dying are these B4 parts. Made a motor guard because the original nylon one is incredibly flexible and bends solder tabs on brushed motors, not so bad with brushless though.. Made a new outer slipper plate old style that mates to the original B4 inner and uses B4 slipper pads so I could use spur gears smaller than 78 teeth for 17.5t motor gearing.

Was sealing it with steam and I dropped the damn slipper bit in the water before it sealed and most of the dye ran out! Motor guard is good though.
Attachments
anodising.jpg
motorguard.jpg
slipper.jpg

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Mr. ED
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Re: RC10B3 4WD

Post by Mr. ED »

you're gonna have to send the story and pictures to some magazines. I bet you could make 'readers ride of the year' with this

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Daddeo
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Re: RC10B3 4WD

Post by Daddeo »

I will agree! This project is very, very interesting.

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Re: RC10B3 4WD

Post by Bugle »

Yeah for all this effort theyd better give me a free subscription too :lol:

Next tool i've gotta make is a vacuum forming setup because i've gotta make a body to suit the slightly higher front end. Just gonna make a mould of a deja vu tu body and build up the front a bit, aswell as add a speedo cooling scoop.

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