RC10B3 4WD
- Mr. ED
- Approved Member
- Posts: 5483
- Joined: Thu Dec 21, 2006 1:30 am
- Location: Back @ home: Belgium
- Has thanked: 62 times
- Been thanked: 62 times
Re: RC10B3 4WD
mmmm, I think I'd rather have steel pins and plastic outdrives with anti-spread rings on the end instead
- klavy69
- Moderator
- Posts: 5204
- Joined: Thu May 29, 2008 4:11 pm
- Location: Fulton, IL (Land of one stop light but we DO have a windmill!)
- Has thanked: 628 times
- Been thanked: 294 times
Re: RC10B3 4WD
Damn cool project. You got way too much time on your hands
. Can't wait to see more about it though .....
Todd

Todd
Peace and professionlism.....Kabunga signing off!!!
-
- Approved Member
- Posts: 553
- Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 11:03 pm
- Location: birdsboro,pa
- Been thanked: 2 times
Re: RC10B3 4WD
i have been using the same pin cushions in aluminum cvd bones and aluminum outdrives in my 10t based oval truck for the past 2 years with virtually zero wear. this is in my weekly racer that gets used in the stock trucks class. the only trick i use is i grind down the legnth of the steel inserted pin a few thousanths and when re inserted space the pin with equal distance space on either end so i can fill the small cavity with superglue. the reason i do this is sometimes the steel pin can slide out like halfway and the plastic will not so the glue has prevented that. i tore grooves into many rear arm mounts and spur gears and smoked 1 GM3 motor before i firgued that little trick. with all that aluminum in the drive train the truck rockets off a corner,the accelleration is unbelievable, espically in a truck turning 4" schumacher tires.
Re: RC10B3 4WD
Yea i was worried about the pin sliding out, that'd ruin the front gearbox. Do you just superglue the pin with pincushion into the original hole and it stays ok?
-
- Approved Member
- Posts: 553
- Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 11:03 pm
- Location: birdsboro,pa
- Been thanked: 2 times
Re: RC10B3 4WD
[[quoteDo you just superglue the pin with pincushion into the original hole and it stays ok?
[/quote]
if the pin were glued in you could not get it back out if it needed to be replaced due to wear. actually the plastic sleve is slightly larger in diameter than the dogbone hole. you slide the plastic sleve into the bone, center it, then insert the steel pin. when you slide in the pin there are tiny ribbs inside the sleve that expand the sleve when inserted and keeps it tight. however i do have 1 set in my edm car that for some reason the pin seems to walk out. i have seen some dogbone pins once removed that were serrated to keep them in place and others not. they were both mip bones but had different pins. so i just had to dimple the aera next to the hole in an effort to slightly deform the hole, this has worked well and has not walked out since.
[/quote]
if the pin were glued in you could not get it back out if it needed to be replaced due to wear. actually the plastic sleve is slightly larger in diameter than the dogbone hole. you slide the plastic sleve into the bone, center it, then insert the steel pin. when you slide in the pin there are tiny ribbs inside the sleve that expand the sleve when inserted and keeps it tight. however i do have 1 set in my edm car that for some reason the pin seems to walk out. i have seen some dogbone pins once removed that were serrated to keep them in place and others not. they were both mip bones but had different pins. so i just had to dimple the aera next to the hole in an effort to slightly deform the hole, this has worked well and has not walked out since.
Re: RC10B3 4WD
I made the aluminium outdrives and the outdrive blade thingos, i'll use pincushions on the CVD pins I think. Made it D-drive, I can still use normal rings if I want. They weigh 4g vs 10g for originals.
Broke my 2mm end mill doing the slot on that CVD so i've gotta wait til next week to get another one..
Broke my 2mm end mill doing the slot on that CVD so i've gotta wait til next week to get another one..
- bearrickster
- Approved Member
- Posts: 4372
- Joined: Thu Mar 06, 2008 11:36 am
- Location: Hollywood Maryland
- Been thanked: 8 times
- Mr. ED
- Approved Member
- Posts: 5483
- Joined: Thu Dec 21, 2006 1:30 am
- Location: Back @ home: Belgium
- Has thanked: 62 times
- Been thanked: 62 times
-
- Approved Member
- Posts: 1116
- Joined: Tue Feb 05, 2008 6:37 pm
- Location: Donkin, Nova Scotia, Canada
- Has thanked: 7 times
- Been thanked: 42 times
Re: RC10B3 4WD
Is that freehand or CNC Bugle? Either way, they look great! Both the outdrives and the blades, nice work.
-
- Approved Member
- Posts: 553
- Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 11:03 pm
- Location: birdsboro,pa
- Been thanked: 2 times
Re: RC10B3 4WD
i take all my aluminum outdrives and make them accept d-rings as well. i can use either losi d-rings or tc3 d-rings. i.r.s sells d-rings in packs of like 10 or so, thats what i use.
Re: RC10B3 4WD
Got an anodising setup working, did a few test pieces to start with in red, blue and gold. The gold dye looked like the chassis tub gold on the packet but came out pale gold like the chassis screws, gonna have to try a darker orange.. My dad made the constant current power supply for it, cathodes are really thin Al printers plate clamped onto Al tubes. Hanging the bits by Al mig welding wire fixed with Al thumb screws I made and some pegs on the top tube to give it a good connection. Had to keep everything above/in the acid aluminium because any steel will ruin it.
First actual parts I tried dying are these B4 parts. Made a motor guard because the original nylon one is incredibly flexible and bends solder tabs on brushed motors, not so bad with brushless though.. Made a new outer slipper plate old style that mates to the original B4 inner and uses B4 slipper pads so I could use spur gears smaller than 78 teeth for 17.5t motor gearing.
Was sealing it with steam and I dropped the damn slipper bit in the water before it sealed and most of the dye ran out! Motor guard is good though.
First actual parts I tried dying are these B4 parts. Made a motor guard because the original nylon one is incredibly flexible and bends solder tabs on brushed motors, not so bad with brushless though.. Made a new outer slipper plate old style that mates to the original B4 inner and uses B4 slipper pads so I could use spur gears smaller than 78 teeth for 17.5t motor gearing.
Was sealing it with steam and I dropped the damn slipper bit in the water before it sealed and most of the dye ran out! Motor guard is good though.
- Mr. ED
- Approved Member
- Posts: 5483
- Joined: Thu Dec 21, 2006 1:30 am
- Location: Back @ home: Belgium
- Has thanked: 62 times
- Been thanked: 62 times
Re: RC10B3 4WD
you're gonna have to send the story and pictures to some magazines. I bet you could make 'readers ride of the year' with this
Re: RC10B3 4WD
Yeah for all this effort theyd better give me a free subscription too
Next tool i've gotta make is a vacuum forming setup because i've gotta make a body to suit the slightly higher front end. Just gonna make a mould of a deja vu tu body and build up the front a bit, aswell as add a speedo cooling scoop.

Next tool i've gotta make is a vacuum forming setup because i've gotta make a body to suit the slightly higher front end. Just gonna make a mould of a deja vu tu body and build up the front a bit, aswell as add a speedo cooling scoop.
Create an account or sign in to join the discussion
You need to be a member in order to post a reply
Create an account
Not a member? register to join our community
Members can start their own topics & subscribe to topics
It’s free and only takes a minute
Sign in
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post
-
- 88 Replies
- 17521 Views
-
Last post by sundevil67
-
- 15 Replies
- 3614 Views
-
Last post by 2500M_Sub
-
- 0 Replies
- 610 Views
-
Last post by gtv1
-
- 4 Replies
- 773 Views
-
Last post by HorseNZ
-
- 3 Replies
- 833 Views
-
Last post by jwscab
-
- 1 Replies
- 713 Views
-
Last post by mrfoski
-
- 46 Replies
- 5418 Views
-
Last post by Jimbo302
-
- 1 Replies
- 793 Views
-
Last post by MelvinsArmy
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Facebook [Bot],
Google Adsense [Bot] and 5 guests