to dye or not to dye?

[Synergy]

I think this is going to lead to lots of rolling eye smilies thrown at the newby but we will see. As it stands I have my lovely RC10CE , a 6010 that needs some work and the future vision of a composite project using parts I got from Shodog (thanks). Now for the question, I have another 6010 that I was going to use as a donor car but it's parts are white and my vision is black (this won’t be an accurate replica of anything I just want it to look cool). So do I dye the parts or trade them, what is the easiest and most economical option? If trade is the answer I will post a thread in the correct section when the time arrives. Thanks.

[badhoopty]

if they are perfect white and in mint shape, try to trade.

if they are dingy or just plain used looking, dye them.

[Synergy]

Thanks Badhoopty, with that in mind I will sort some pictures out, put a post in the trade room and see what happens, if no result I will dye them.

[shodog]

I never understood why people kept their parts white. I always thought it looked ugly.

[AYKBOBCAT]

I agree with Shodog I also think the white parts look ugly but if you want your parts to take value I guess white is better. If you want to drive the car then dye it to death

[shodog]

you know your all going to dye sometime http://www.tcphotos.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=2016&sid=34&secid=20&t

[superfly]

I just re-read an old issue of RC Car Action and in it is the first article on dying parts called "Dye or not to Dye"...the article written by a doctor at the time, was the first to suggest Dying car parts with Tintex or Rit. The Doc originally wanted to increase strength in his nylon molded parts by stress relieving them by boiling the parts in salt water. When he saw that the Dyes had sodium in them he put 2 and 2 together and came up with the dying process we all have tried. The article says that if you boil the parts in salt water for 30 to 40 minuites that should be sufficient to stress relieve them. Add the Dye instead of the salt and you're good to make coloured parts. Salt BTW helps the absorbtion of the water by osmosis apparently?! Thats what the article says anyways.

I dyed a bunch of parts with purple Tintex dye about 15 yrs ago and never broke a single dyed piece...maybe this stress relief thing works?!

I just found 5 boxes of Dye at an old supermarket and I'm about to do another batch. I'm thinking ORANGE for all the suspension parts. I guess if Orange looks bad I could always try darker colours like black...I bought RED, YELLOW, ORANGE, BLUE, PURPLE dyes so i'll have a few diff choices to make.

When I get them all done I'll take some pics for you all...I have a plan to make a colourful looking car...My last one was Floursencent Yellow Body with Purple suspension...I liked that one...this one will be an orange and yellow beast

[noony]

I agree with both shodog ,aykbobcat and FERRETTI im not a bid fan of white. So if you have nice clean parts see if some one wants to trade for them if not dye away.

[badhoopty]

so you white haters would take a brand new MINT 6010 kit and dye it?

i didnt think so...





fyi, if you are dying any color but black, take the parts out while they seem too light and let them cool down and sit for a long while, they tend to darken a little more after they are removed.

http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/faq/dye.htm

[Synergy]

Don't get me wrong, I love the look of gold tubs with sparkling white parts. I wouldn't even consider dying my CE or my 6010 resto but I would like my composite car to be mainly black I don't think white looks so good with flat carbon/composite chassis.

[badhoopty]

more than half my cars have dyed plastic on them btw.

if the white plastic wasnt so rare, i'd be dyin' stuff all the time.

[MONSTER]

Vintage R/C is new to me, but Ive always liked vintage anything. I even collect some "vintage" paintball equipment. If you go to URC, RCTech, or Hobbytalk, you may have an iea of what Im workin with. I'll post more here later. Long story short for this thread, Im trying to build a DS with white (or mostly white anyway) parts, then Im doing a RC10 in black. The DS will be driven, but not toooo harshly, so "less likely" to break the white parts. (riiiight). The RC10 will be driven as it was intended, so easier-to-get black parts makes more sense.

On another note, would it hurt the white parts to be bleached....maybe a little?

[scr8p]

Don't get me wrong, I love the look of gold tubs with sparkling white parts. I wouldn't even consider dying my CE or my 6010 resto but I would like my composite car to be mainly black I don't think white looks so good with flat carbon/composite chassis.

well, here's my opinion................

if you have all of the white parts to build the car, and the parts are in nice shape, i'd but them aside and just go buy all of the black parts. tower has pretty much every part you'd need, except the rear a-arm mounts i believe. you know if you dye then, some other chassis will come along, and you'll wish you had the white parts to use on it.

just my $.02.....................

[Synergy]

These are the parts I'm going to put them in the trade section to try and get a direct swap for black ones, I think they might be too good to dye. I will specify what's up for swap there.