ReRe rear dogbones popping out

[Brendan2904]

I have heard there is an issue with the rear drive axles popping out on the Team, T, and other reissues.

Is there a good fix for this? I know some will say AE needs to replace some things or make available stuff but I am probably going to start working on the 4wd kit this week and the Team and T kits shortly after and would like to have a fix in hand while building these kits.

[jwscab]

The only fix you need is to put the shock on the outer hole in the arm, and add shock internal limiters to reduce droop so the bone does not disengage. You can also place the blue spacer on the axle on the inside to bias the bone inwards. Honestly guys that aren't really builders (regardless of what they say) are the guys that can't figure this out. I think the included manual is wrong though for the lower placement of the shock. Also, be sure you have like 0 or preferably -1 camber.

I don't know why people need so much droop.

[Brendan2904]

So, like I said, I haven’t started yet so I was asking questions before hand so I was prepared when I got to that point. I haven’t opened the kits yet so I don’t even know there’s a blue washer.

[JosephS]

So, like I said, I haven’t started yet so I was asking questions before hand so I was prepared when I got to that point. I haven’t opened the kits yet so I don’t even know there’s a blue washer.

For the dogbones there is a spring that fits in the drive axle that helps. Additionally you want axle shims to push that axle inwards from the rear hub. You can use an old shock oring as a washer on the transmission side to push things out. That is in addition to jwscab's advice. As he noted droop in the main reason for bones to disengage( in my experience) having additional shock limiters available can help while you are building. AE has been 'optimistic' in their limiters recommendation on some kits.

[RogueIV]

The only fix you need is to put the shock on the outer hole in the arm, and add shock internal limiters to reduce droop so the bone does not disengage. You can also place the blue spacer on the axle on the inside to bias the bone inwards. Honestly guys that aren't really builders (regardless of what the say) are the guys that can't figure this out. I think the included manual is wrong though for the lower placement of the shock. Also, be sure you have like 0 or preferably -1 camber.

I don't know why people need so much droop.

While I agree there are ways to work around the issue it bad form to have build instructions that put the car into a configuration that won't work properly. Its even worse to not design a product correctly to not be able to use all the available tuning options. Even with the fixes the dogbone, cvd, cva ect should never be that close to the edge of the drive cup. Especially on a "reimagined" car like the RC10 4wd

[Ronbo]

I decided to look at my only 1/4" axle universal equipped RC10 OG graphite and compare to the new universals offered by AE. AS you can see in the pics, the location of the drive pin is shorter than the OG dogbone length and where it would ride against inner bearing is the same. Putting it on the RC10 Masami Graphite, I used non flanged outer, with keeping the flanged bearing on inner. Normally its flanged inner and outer, using 5 shims on inside.
My shocks are 1.32, although I dont know/remember if I used 1.02 shafts. (more than likely I did as that was the setup)

[jwscab]

Yeah agreed they definitely screwed up the length and the manual. That is the real issue but you can set it up to work.

[KidAgain]

I decided to look at my only 1/4" axle universal equipped RC10 OG graphite and compare to the new universals offered by AE. AS you can see in the pics, the location of the drive pin is shorter than the OG dogbone length and where it would ride against inner bearing is the same. Putting it on the RC10 Masami Graphite, I used non flanged outer, with keeping the flanged bearing on inner. Normally its flanged inner and outer, using 5 shims on inside.
My shocks are 1.32, although I dont know/remember if I used 1.02 shafts. (more than likely I did as that was the setup)

Would you happen to have a set of the new MIP CVD’s to compare to the other two you posted?

[Ronbo]

I decided to look at my only 1/4" axle universal equipped RC10 OG graphite and compare to the new universals offered by AE. AS you can see in the pics, the location of the drive pin is shorter than the OG dogbone length and where it would ride against inner bearing is the same. Putting it on the RC10 Masami Graphite, I used non flanged outer, with keeping the flanged bearing on inner. Normally its flanged inner and outer, using 5 shims on inside.
My shocks are 1.32, although I dont know/remember if I used 1.02 shafts. (more than likely I did as that was the setup)

Would you happen to have a set of the new MIP CVD’s to compare to the other two you posted?

I wish I did, but since they are out of stock, same with FAN RC, I cannot right now. All I have currently is new MIP RC10T and DS NIP. As well as only 1 set of shiny CVD in my Re RE RC10T. The rest are for B3/4 and OG RC10s are dogbones.

[Ronbo]

To update my previous finding, this setup would appear to only work on the OG rear carriers. The inside is chamfered/narrowed on inside, thus only letting the unflanged bearing go so far into the carrier. The new black NIP AE carriers I have are not chamfered/narrowed on inside, thus allowing the bearing to push in. The new style RC10T carriers have a step to contain flanged/non flanged bearing and would probably be a better setup to use in order to use the bearings to shim... my opinion only

[juicedcoupe]

You might have an oddball set. Originals don't have any taper or step to them. Gold pans had a single bushing that went all the way through.

[Brendan2904]

Robert Rankin keeps posting this on the facebook group is that the blue washer you’re talking about?

[Brendan2904]

David Kaffka also posted this for the shock limiting.

[Ronbo]

You might have an oddball set. Originals don't have any taper or step to them. Gold pans had a single bushing that went all the way through.

It could just be that tighter tolerances during the mold process vs the later black ones that Im seeing.

[RogueIV]

David Kaffka also posted this for the shock limiting.

I thought the 4wd came with shorter rear shock shafts than the Classic.