RC10T eBay purchase

[Brendan2904]

Again I am not looking for a great deal guy or a price guide. I am looking at a good looking car for a restoration. I have been in the hobby for almost 40 years so I have a running idea of the “value” of these cars but to me they are invaluable and worth millions. I am a habitual collector with an addictive personality. I want to know everything about these models. I’m also asking questions because I’m curious to see if my “vintage Tamiya” experience also rolls over to vintage AE and other companies because I know some of the materials used are similar but not exact in some cases. So I am not looking for a price check per say or to “bait” anyone. I’m looking for a pat on the back or a smack in the head. I edited my first post so nobody feels uncomfortable.

Does anyone see any parts that aren’t stock? Front A arms?

[carloco8]

Looks like a very nice 10T sport with light to medium use. With the intention of cleaning it up and running it, you are going to get lots of enjoyment out of it. It does look completely stock to me with an upgraded rpm bumper (IMO must have for a runner since it covers the front nose plate and inner portion of the arms) and newer T2 front arms (previously may have broken the original white front arms). There were lots of variations of the 10T sport trucks all the way up until the T2 sport came out, with all white plastic and natural fiberglass towers to some having black arms only (zebras). Some had the GT front tower that GomachV pointed out to eventaully all black plastic and shock towers also. For what you have comin in the mail, I'd just swap in either white front arms black rear arms so they match. Only other thing I throw in is a set of bearings if it doesn't have them already for piece of mind since it'll be a runner. Lastly, you could upgrade the electronics to an affordable hobbywing justock brushless combo too. Otherwise, keeping the wiper arm and a brushed motor in there would be truly box stock.

[Brendan2904]

Looks like a very nice 10T sport with light to medium use. With the intention of cleaning it up and running it, you are going to get lots of enjoyment out of it. It does look completely stock to me with an upgraded rpm bumper (IMO must have for a runner since it covers the front nose plate and inner portion of the arms) and newer T2 front arms (previously may have broken the original white front arms). There were lots of variations of the 10T sport trucks all the way up until the T2 sport came out, with all white plastic and natural fiberglass towers to some having black arms only (zebras). Some had the GT front tower that GomachV pointed out to eventaully all black plastic and shock towers also. For what you have comin in the mail, I'd just swap in either white front arms black rear arms so they match. Only other thing I throw in is a set of bearings if it doesn't have them already for piece of mind since it'll be a runner. Lastly, you could upgrade the electronics to an affordable hobbywing justock brushless combo too. Otherwise, keeping the wiper arm and a brushed motor in there would be truly box stock.

It’s going on my Futaba Attack R with a Rooster Reversible esc.

I prefer my originals to have period specific electronics although I am running out of crystals and escs. I have a basket case rooster that I really need to fix up cause it is the last one I have in my parts bins. Plus I think I am down to 2 receivers with crystals, 2 S148 servos, a few airtronics servos, and some other odds and ends that I was able to root through some boxes at a closing hobby store and add to my stock years ago.

It’s going to be a shelf queen runner which just means a couple of times a year I will run it. My rere’s and new builds get most of my yard running. I am hoping during the tear down it has bearings but I have a couple of sets for the new T that should fit. I hen did they switch completely to the black nylon parts on these? I see so many variations it’s weird. I understand broken parts getting repaired and replaced but the mixing of the parts is interesting to me.

[carloco8]

You can check here in the 10T history thread (scroll down to the 10T sport post):

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=34096

I think some of the pictures are gone but the info is spot on and ofcourse confirmed by many, many, many members

[Brendan2904]

You can check here in the 10T history thread (scroll down to the 10T sport post):

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=34096

I think some of the pictures are gone but the info is spot on and ofcourse confirmed by many, many, many members

Thank you!

[JosephS]

It’s going on my Futaba Attack R with a Rooster Reversible esc.

If you are going for period that msc looks really nicely setup. It looks like a truck that will be lots of fun as it’s arriving

[Brendan2904]

It’s going on my Futaba Attack R with a Rooster Reversible esc.

If you are going for period that msc looks really nicely setup. It looks like a truck that will be lots of fun as it’s arriving

Tye msc is most definitely coming out. As is the airtronics equipment.

[Brendan2904]

It’s here. Before tear down shot:

[Brendan2904]

After tear down shot.

The radio is 27mhz so it has to come out.

[Brendan2904]

Finally a mock up without the receiver and motor see how things should look after replacing the a arms and cleaning the chassis up good.

My kingdom for some real servo tape!!!!!

[Frankentruck]

My kingdom for some real servo tape!!!!!

Amen brother!

I hate servo tape, but when I need it, it needs to be worth using.

[Brendan2904]

My kingdom for some real servo tape!!!!!

Amen brother!

I hate servo tape, but when I need it, it needs to be worth using.

The big jims motor had an envelope with it. Not sure what it has inside of it. When I get home from the hobby shop I’m going to dive into all of the little pieces and bags.

[juicedcoupe]

My kingdom for some real servo tape!!!!!

This removes old (and new) servo tape and breaks down many (non CA) adhesives, without attacking plastic or anodizing. Let the tape soak it up, then remove it with your fingers. Clean the residue with some fluid on a paper towel.

[Brendan2904]

My kingdom for some real servo tape!!!!!

This removes old (and new) servo tape and breaks down many (non CA) adhesives, without attacking plastic or anodizing. Let the tape soak it up, then remove it with your fingers. Clean the residue with some fluid on a paper towel.

Screenshot_20250315_120357_Samsung Internet.jpg

Thanks! I use it on other stuff too like guitars for pesky glue stuff lol. I just wish they made servo tape today like they made it in the 70’s, 80’s and 90’s so I could use it to mount the Futaba Servo in the same place.


Here are a few more pics. Work was interrupted by a fire call. So I am taking a break for today and tomorrow.

[JosephS]

My kingdom for some real servo tape!!!!!

This removes old (and new) servo tape and breaks down many (non CA) adhesives, without attacking plastic or anodizing. Let the tape soak it up, then remove it with your fingers. Clean the residue with some fluid on a paper towel.

Screenshot_20250315_120357_Samsung Internet.jpg

Thanks! I use it on other stuff too like guitars for pesky glue stuff lol. I just wish they made servo tape today like they made it in the 70’s, 80’s and 90’s so I could use it to mount the Futaba Servo in the same place.


Here are a few more pics. Work was interrupted by a fire call. So I am taking a break for today and tomorrow.

You can use hot glue under the servo to hold it down, once it’s placed use a heat gun, or lighter, to really get the glue stuck. It works amazing