Intergenerational 6035 Team Car

[juicedcoupe]

I made these nose and wing tubes yesterday, from the K&S tubing.

To protect the nose, I'd recommend a bumper. Andy's bumpers can be found on eBay sometimes.

If you prefer something smaller, there are some 3D printed ones on Shapeways that fit closer.

[JosephS]

File the top of the slot in the motor plate a little bit.

I'm going to need a file for that. Do you know what size is proper?

[jwscab]

Yes use a foam block to keep your shorty lipo in place.

As for the file, you can buy a cheapie set of jewelers files, there are about 5 or 6 different shape profiles, and a number of them would work. They usually come in a pack with plasti-dip handles. They are all around 1/8" to 1/4" wide depending on the profile.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-8-in-Smooth-File-Set/999921002?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-google-_-lia-_-216-_-handsaws-_-999921002-_-0&placeholder=null&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=CjwKCAjw8cCGBhB6EiwAgORey71e1Vn1Vydey-GUARPj0Qcw6EBFrRprcLDPd8PS3iSHfySQ5jTB5hoCAzUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

[JosephS]

So the foam block is in place and the body is painted.

I found some computer case screws that work perfectly on the hold down. Electrical tape works great for holding down the wires but any loose edge attracts dirt. I think I am going to cut a foam block to go between the front suspension mounts to see if that cuts down on the dirt and grass entering the chassis.

This was my first attempt at a paint job and I learned a lot. My masking was good, but not good enough so the pattern had to change. The detonator body from J concepts looks great, but there is a corner in the back of the tub area that makes this less friendly to beginners. My masking wicked the paint in this area and it attracts dirt with no way to get it out.

I followed the convention of paint dark colors first and I would not do that again . It makes most sense to do the easiest /cleanest masking first. In this case I would have painted the blue first and the black stripe second with the orange last. This would have let me mask the body from the bottom, which has far fewer curved sections to mask down.
I also learned that if you are careful you can use acetone to remove spot problems. A small dab from a cotton swab right on the paint you want to remove and an immediate follow up with a clean swab to remove it. It’s time consuming this way but if you let the acetone sit it hazes the body and allows the offenseive color to embed in the lexan. So quick and light it is

I used some of the chassis protector on the the underside of the body to protect the paint. It was rubbing off on the chassis. I tried extra coats to protect it but that didn’t help.

Once the wiring is set this project will be done

[JosephS]

Making new shock towers to try out a new wiring path.

AD0933C8-31ED-43A9-96C2-5DB724783AE8.jpeg (29.33 KiB) Viewed 1164 times

AD0933C8-31ED-43A9-96C2-5DB724783AE8.jpeg (29.33 KiB) Viewed 1164 times

[juicedcoupe]

The back of that wing is made to be mostly cut out. There should be some faint lines in the mold for trimming it.

[JosephS]

The back of that wing is made to be mostly cut out. There should be some faint lines in the mold for trimming it.

Thanks for that. That wing is actually the original kit wing. I should un-string it and work up the detonator wing. Is the wing is painted from underneath?

[juicedcoupe]

Is the wing is painted from underneath?

Mine is.

I've seen it done both ways.

[jwscab]

With the foam block you should consider adding a battery strap that looks like a worlds style, that has an extension that hooks under the rear bulkhead box. This will be a better way to prevent the battery from popping up.

[JosephS]

With the foam block you should consider adding a battery strap that looks like a worlds style, that has an extension that hooks under the rear bulkhead box. This will be a better way to prevent the battery from popping up.

I thought about that. It seems like the way to go, but I'll have to a bit before I get one.

[JosephS]

Just got the bullet connectors they are a bit chunky but are easy to grip. It looks a bit cleaner now. The motor wires are next.

[JosephS]

A new paint scheme for a new owner.

Still need the paint scheme for the wing and stickers to be put on.

It’s all mechanically and electrically there.

[juicedcoupe]

As with the JConcepts wing, the AE high downforce wing is also made to be partially cut out at the back.

Here is my Team Car. It has a JConcepts Protector body but uses a reproduction AE wing.

You can see how the rear is trimmed. You can also see that I left the trailing edge clear. It looks cloudy in this picture but is barely noticeable in person. I also trimmed the top of the wing to match the angle of the bottom.

[JosephS]

notes
Front end.
The front steering knuckles are a weak point on this car. The driver snapped one at the last track session in 2024 and it took me until now to get it swapped out. I am happy that it's easy to get parts.

Shocks
When rebuilding the front shocks I used the Revolution Design Ultra 1/10 Shock O-Ring Part#: RDRP2001 and couldn't get the shocks to properly 'snap' until I removed one of the smaller shims in the shock plastics. Filled with 35 weight oil. One shock collar is cracked and needs to be replaced eventually.