RC10 parts with set screws instead of E-Clips

[LusBus]

As you can see there is a cylindrical part added on these RC10-parts, so you can use a setscrew to secure the hingepins. Very comfortable, no more lost E-clips. And it is very easy to make your own hingepins, no need to make a groove to seat a clip, just buy 1/8" steel rod from a hardware store an cut it to the desired length.

[XLR8]

Well done sir!
I've used grub screws to secure the hinge pins on my '91 Stealth build and it works great.
The only slight downside is that the screw locks the pin preventing it from rotating in both parts.
However, e-clips are easily lost and such a hassle to install and if you're in the pits frantically making between-round repairs or adjustments, you probably won't care if the pin can rotate in only one part.

[LusBus]

Hello Doug!

You think it's a downside if the pin does not rotate in both parts? I'm not sure, I think it is even better like that. Because only one part will be worn and if there is to much play you only have to change the A-arm.

By the way, all this parts are printed from white polyamide using a Prusa MK4S. The noseplate is milled from 4mm aluminium, then bent to the desired angle.

[JosephS]

Well done sir!
I've used grub screws to secure the hinge pins on my '91 Stealth build and it works great.
The only slight downside is that the screw locks the pin preventing it from rotating in both parts.
However, e-clips are easily lost and such a hassle to install and if you're in the pits frantically making between-round repairs or adjustments, you probably won't care if the pin can rotate in only one part.

The pin is not supposed to rotate in both parts. The pin is supposed to be stationary and the arm is the portion that moves. In fresh plastic the pin is friction held. This is a old school 'pit tip' that you can drill out a space for a grub screw and secure the pin that way. You can even file down a flat spot on it. I think there was some issue with the b4 where this was necessary on the rear pins.

This design is slick. I'd love to see it molded. This is exactly the kind of unnecessary engineering I pay for.

[XLR8]

It's hypothetical but when the forward end of hinge pin holes in the rear arms, for instance, become embedded with dirt, the arm is forced to pivot around that grit if the pin is locked to the mating part. This will create more friction, resistance and accelerate wear at the end of the pin.
That said, it hasn't stopped me from using grub screws to secure my hinge pins because I HATE FRICKIN E-CLIPS.

[LusBus]

I'd love to see it molded.

The printed polyamide is surprisingly good. Five out of six surfaces look almost perfect (top and the four sides, only on the bottom-oriented surfaces you can see where the supports had been). And in two out of three directions the parts are almost as strong as the molded parts. Only in direction of the layers they break easier.

It is important to have a very good printer and the right setting and handling. Right temperature and speed for stability and concentric layers for the look. And a good printer, the difference between Prusa MK3 and MK4S for axample is HUGE, bigger than I ever imagined. Further you need a heated closed chamber, and print the parts with a windshield on a sticky bed. And I dry polyamide filament 6 hours at 80 degrees Celsius before printing.

I usually print parts first, and if they break i mill them on the CNC machine. But for the milled parts sometimes the design has to be changed a little bit for easier manufacturing.

[1911Colt]

This design is slick. I'd love to see it molded. This is exactly the kind of unnecessary engineering I pay for.

Well then, get yourself a Cougar! Unnecessary engineering is sort of a specialty at Schumacher. The Cougar bulkhead had(has) bosses molded in to give the option of capturing the pin.