Suspension parts not including shocks and towers, slipper and layshaft will fit and possibly wheels hubs and steering parts, wheels, motor mount and cap with a slight modification.Shutterbugf5 wrote: ↑Sat Jan 04, 2025 9:04 pm I just scored and original '91 works... how many of the re-re parts will likely fit it? Anyone know?
Yokomo Works '91 re-re
- Alex B
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Re: Yokomo Works '91 re-re

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Re: Yokomo Works '91 re-re
I picked up mine last week and have ordered the Bezerk rc worlds conversion kit for it
https://bezerk.com.au/yz-870c-works-91-cliff-lett-91-worlds-replica/
like all my rc10s and nix91, this will get the Cliff treatment.
as i will be racing this one, does anyone know if the 870 spring kits are the same for the w91 ? i cant find anything to to say they are the same length
ed
https://bezerk.com.au/yz-870c-works-91-cliff-lett-91-worlds-replica/
like all my rc10s and nix91, this will get the Cliff treatment.
as i will be racing this one, does anyone know if the 870 spring kits are the same for the w91 ? i cant find anything to to say they are the same length
ed
Hi, my name is Ed, and im a addict.
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Re: Yokomo Works '91 re-re
so when are we gunna see some of your rides at the GKR classic Ed?edwin pibal wrote: ↑Mon Jan 20, 2025 6:55 pm I picked up mine last week and have ordered the Bezerk rc worlds conversion kit for it
https://bezerk.com.au/yz-870c-works-91-cliff-lett-91-worlds-replica/
like all my rc10s and nix91, this will get the Cliff treatment.
as i will be racing this one, does anyone know if the 870 spring kits are the same for the w91 ? i cant find anything to to say they are the same length
ed
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Re: Yokomo Works '91 re-re
Was all set to go too, was perfect timing with it being a public holiday!
but ended up having to jump into a project that was running behind so couldnt get away.
from what i saw it was a fantastic meeting am sad i missed it.
but i think a 8.5 in the old b2 was abit much for the poor diff, so will have to choose a different 2wd to put too much horse power into
but ended up having to jump into a project that was running behind so couldnt get away.
from what i saw it was a fantastic meeting am sad i missed it.
but i think a 8.5 in the old b2 was abit much for the poor diff, so will have to choose a different 2wd to put too much horse power into

Retro rc wrote: ↑Mon Jan 20, 2025 7:26 pmso when are we gunna see some of your rides at the GKR classic Ed?edwin pibal wrote: ↑Mon Jan 20, 2025 6:55 pm I picked up mine last week and have ordered the Bezerk rc worlds conversion kit for it
https://bezerk.com.au/yz-870c-works-91-cliff-lett-91-worlds-replica/
like all my rc10s and nix91, this will get the Cliff treatment.
as i will be racing this one, does anyone know if the 870 spring kits are the same for the w91 ? i cant find anything to to say they are the same length
ed
Hi, my name is Ed, and im a addict.
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- Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2008 5:24 pm
- Location: Wellington, New Zealand
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Re: Yokomo Works '91 re-re
Well for those that are also wondering about this,
Both pairs of shocks are longer, the 91 fronts are longer that the 870c rears and the 91 rears are longer again, so the 870 springs will work but the spring collars will be at the bottom of the thread of the shock.
ed
Both pairs of shocks are longer, the 91 fronts are longer that the 870c rears and the 91 rears are longer again, so the 870 springs will work but the spring collars will be at the bottom of the thread of the shock.
ed
Hi, my name is Ed, and im a addict.
Re: Yokomo Works '91 re-re
Meant to post this weekend, but finally finished the kit. Having built several re-release kits over the past year, it was interesting to compare. Performance, from a very gentle garage shakedown feels pretty good (too cold/wet to take it out yet and I still need paint the body). Some thoughts:
-My biggest complaint still stands in that there is a lot of play between the bulkhead/hinge pins, and hinge pins and arms. The front is probably the worst as it stacks up throughout the entire assembly (loose at bulkhead, loose to arms, then loose to pin/c-hub). If a hinge pin brace/tie rod had been included, the inner play probably could have been improved a lot. I plan to update the front (and maybe rear) with 3x45 or 3x46 mm hinge pins so that I can add a tie rod. These could have easily been added with minimal cost.
-Similarly, the steering probably could have been improved with a simple G10/FRP bar (similar to the Rubrix design) versus using the bent wire to join the arms.
-As some have noted here or elsewhere, Yokomo did kind of cheap out. I hate to say that, because I am very, very grateful that they re-released it. But… there are some areas that could have really made it an awesome kit/buggy. The use of the plastic and cheap aluminum pivot balls was a bit perplexing. The plastic is probably OK but I had one of the metal balls distort while pressing into the ball end (not confidence inspiring for strength). The center spider is plastic (along with the gears) in both diffs. This is probably alright for lighter duty motors but time will tell if this is an issue or not. I would have liked to see at least metal gears but it may have been more focused towards weight savings (or at least that’s what I am telling myself). No rear sway bar - which is probably fine as many removed these back in the day. However, seems like a pretty easy add with minimal cost.
-I know some have complained about the shocks but they are not that bad and do seem to be OK with the included oils/springs. I may still swap them out for something else but will try to give them a chance. The spring collars are really the only part that was a bit strange. Two of mine are pretty easy to turn but the other two are a bit tighter. Yes – I made sure I did not cross thread them. It just seems like maybe some QC issues with the molded parts.
-And speaking of QC, the battery holders are/were distorted – even before installing on the chassis. Similar to the above, I’m guessing that the QC is not great at the molder for some of the parts and/or the design of the parts lend themselves to warp. I may redesign/reprint them at some point.
-Two design wishes:
1. ...the front U-joints were about 1-2 mm longer. The pin is on the edge of the differential cups as designed. The rear U-joints have plenty of engagement so modifying with longer stroke and/or a different setup is not really an issue. However, if the joints had been a bit longer, I’m pretty certain you could safely add a little more steering throw or increased the front droop.
2. ...the chassis had been set up for installing the battery on either side, with a swap of the servo installation side. While this might have driven a small amount of complexity, it would have greatly improved electronics layout/harness routing and weight distribution. I did do a full layout of the chassis so I may take a crack at CNC’ing a new lower and/or just manually adding the holes.
Even with all of the above, I’m still happy with it as it is a kit that I could never afford (or easily find) when it was originally released. The design is still great today – and the design is a big improvement over the the 870C re-release (in my opinion). Also, as an added bonus it’s allowed me to start looking into alternative hub/wheel options for some of my other cars. I hope these do well and we see another re-release of the 93 or 94.
-My biggest complaint still stands in that there is a lot of play between the bulkhead/hinge pins, and hinge pins and arms. The front is probably the worst as it stacks up throughout the entire assembly (loose at bulkhead, loose to arms, then loose to pin/c-hub). If a hinge pin brace/tie rod had been included, the inner play probably could have been improved a lot. I plan to update the front (and maybe rear) with 3x45 or 3x46 mm hinge pins so that I can add a tie rod. These could have easily been added with minimal cost.
-Similarly, the steering probably could have been improved with a simple G10/FRP bar (similar to the Rubrix design) versus using the bent wire to join the arms.
-As some have noted here or elsewhere, Yokomo did kind of cheap out. I hate to say that, because I am very, very grateful that they re-released it. But… there are some areas that could have really made it an awesome kit/buggy. The use of the plastic and cheap aluminum pivot balls was a bit perplexing. The plastic is probably OK but I had one of the metal balls distort while pressing into the ball end (not confidence inspiring for strength). The center spider is plastic (along with the gears) in both diffs. This is probably alright for lighter duty motors but time will tell if this is an issue or not. I would have liked to see at least metal gears but it may have been more focused towards weight savings (or at least that’s what I am telling myself). No rear sway bar - which is probably fine as many removed these back in the day. However, seems like a pretty easy add with minimal cost.
-I know some have complained about the shocks but they are not that bad and do seem to be OK with the included oils/springs. I may still swap them out for something else but will try to give them a chance. The spring collars are really the only part that was a bit strange. Two of mine are pretty easy to turn but the other two are a bit tighter. Yes – I made sure I did not cross thread them. It just seems like maybe some QC issues with the molded parts.
-And speaking of QC, the battery holders are/were distorted – even before installing on the chassis. Similar to the above, I’m guessing that the QC is not great at the molder for some of the parts and/or the design of the parts lend themselves to warp. I may redesign/reprint them at some point.
-Two design wishes:
1. ...the front U-joints were about 1-2 mm longer. The pin is on the edge of the differential cups as designed. The rear U-joints have plenty of engagement so modifying with longer stroke and/or a different setup is not really an issue. However, if the joints had been a bit longer, I’m pretty certain you could safely add a little more steering throw or increased the front droop.
2. ...the chassis had been set up for installing the battery on either side, with a swap of the servo installation side. While this might have driven a small amount of complexity, it would have greatly improved electronics layout/harness routing and weight distribution. I did do a full layout of the chassis so I may take a crack at CNC’ing a new lower and/or just manually adding the holes.
Even with all of the above, I’m still happy with it as it is a kit that I could never afford (or easily find) when it was originally released. The design is still great today – and the design is a big improvement over the the 870C re-release (in my opinion). Also, as an added bonus it’s allowed me to start looking into alternative hub/wheel options for some of my other cars. I hope these do well and we see another re-release of the 93 or 94.
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