Rc10812 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 06, 2024 10:05 pm
Speaking of extra parts I decided to go with ceramic diff balls. So I'll keep the kit supplied steel ones for spare. RougeIV.... you said your diff felt a little rough. Just curious if you completely used the kit supplied stuff and if you tried to sand the diff rings first? And if not do you think that might help? Guess it can't hurt. When I get there I'll do the ceramic balls and some 800 or 1000 grit sandpaper on the rings and see what I get. Anyway kit looks great bud.
Morrisey0... looks great too. Love those tires and wheels.
I used the supplied stuff in the kit. didn't try resurfacing the diff rings. I might pop it apart and take a gander at some point.
The funny thing is the diff I stole out of my project RC10T to put into this car for the weekend wasn't even lubed and felt really smooth, that got even better when I tossed some stealth lube in it.
Good to see it was the diff rings, I'll have to source some better ones.
RC10th wrote: ↑Wed Aug 07, 2024 12:53 am
Would be good to see if someone with a "gritty" diff tried new diff/thrust balls
Swapped over to traditional thrust plates / balls, and it made no difference. Going to swap back in the new style, and just start swapping parts individually until some improvement is witnessed. All parts appear fine, and run smooth when rotated up against individual parts, but once you put it together and torque it down, it really does get pretty bad.
THRUST BEARING 1.jpg
EDIT: That didn't take long. Swapped the diff rings and it is night and day. Now the diff has a nice steady drag. Never really looked at the rings earlier, but they are nowhere near as smooth as the polished rings that I normally see.
DIFF PLATES 1.jpg
Just to piggy back on this, Because I used the outdrives from the kit I kept the thrust bearing from the kit as well when i assembled the hybrid diff. So I had new outdrives and thrust bearing setup with old center gear, diff balls, and rings. That diff is one of the smoothest ones I've ever had across many models. Safe to say the thrust bearing setup is good.
Used to be a thing in the pits with some older guys bitd...comparing/bragging about diff buttery smoothness.
"I just rebuilt my diff, give that a spin and rejoice in it's buttery smoothness."
"Meh, still a very slight crunch. Check mine out!"
"Wow, that's smooth!"
Meanwhile, I'm running some flat-spotted balls on grooved rings just trying to keep it off it's lid in novice class trying to not finish last in the B-main.
For those having issues with the bellcranks. It can be done without raising the bellcranks, reducing the already limited clearance at the ball cups.
This is a pic of my Composite Craft car with re-re Words bellcranks, with no extra spacers.
The ballstuds are from Schumacher, with very short threads.
You can clearly see the included nylon spacer at the bottom of the bellcranks and that the threads of the ballstuds clear the chassis. You can also see the extra 8-32 nylon nut on top.
Always looking for new and interesting ways to waste money.
juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Sat Aug 10, 2024 3:02 pm
For those having issues with the bellcranks. It can be done without raising the bellcranks, reducing the already limited clearance at the ball cups.
This is a pic of my Composite Craft car with re-re Words bellcranks, with no extra spacers.
The ballstuds are from Schumacher, with very short threads.
You can clearly see the included nylon spacer at the bottom of the bellcranks and that the threads of the ballstuds clear the chassis. You can also see the extra 8-32 nylon nut on top.
20240810_134919.jpg
I'd rather have more thread engagement. To be honest you could probably just shave the bottom of the belcranks down a little bit for clearance as the OE ballstuds don't go all the way through them and there's a bit there you could trim without changing hardware. Looks like you shaved them completely off on your car or they just didn't have the extra bosses on the bottom?
Also the deflection in this assembly is kinda jank. I might just switch it over to the Factory Works setup TBH.
Back on the Transmission topic, if anyone didn't know the difference between the original Stealth and the Fan RC one here's a side by side. Idler gear on the Fan RC has the bearings in the gear rather than in the case.
One on the left is out of my OG RC10T and on the right is the Fan RC one.
For the bellcrank issue in the long run, I wasn't going to use stock nylon anyway. AE or FanRC really doesn't matter, I am personally going to swap to an aluminum setup on a runner.
I build RCs like people would have done back in the '90s ..................................... if they had 3D printers.
juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Sat Aug 10, 2024 3:02 pm
For those having issues with the bellcranks. It can be done without raising the bellcranks, reducing the already limited clearance at the ball cups.
This is a pic of my Composite Craft car with re-re Words bellcranks, with no extra spacers.
The ballstuds are from Schumacher, with very short threads.
You can clearly see the included nylon spacer at the bottom of the bellcranks and that the threads of the ballstuds clear the chassis. You can also see the extra 8-32 nylon nut on top.
20240810_134919.jpg
I'd rather have more thread engagement.
Those slightly protrude from the bottom. Unless you put a backing nut on, that's all the thread engagement available.
When they are in stock, I like the JConcepts ones. They are aluminum versions of the Worlds bellcranks.
Always looking for new and interesting ways to waste money.
Rogue nice side by side stealth comparison. Regarding the outdrives... I'm in the midst of building my trans for the fan kit. I did feel that the rings could use a sanding. I only sanded one side assuming that I don't want the ring to slip on the outdrive right? The outdrive to me felt rough. Like if I placed the ring on it and spun it around it felt gritty. But I hesitate to do anything to smooth it out because I'm assuming I don't want to encourage any spin between the ring and the outdrive. Right? Does anyone prep the outdrive at all?
As for the bellcranks I did get 3/4" screws and a nut to tighten them down. The nut then acts as the spacer. As a spacer it's a little thicker than I wanted and I thought I was going to have clearance problems with the ballcups but it looks like they just clear. I'll probably sand the nuts down to keep the geometry a little truer to the kit.
I can't compare them because my original graphite car is suspiciously missing the transmission but from 30 years ago I recall them being much lighter and smoother and made out of like a hard coated or anodized aluminum.
I love that fanrc replicated this kit for us but this was my concern. The most vital parts may not quite be up to the original. The parts that at least in my mind were the real reason the car was so special. Now it's still to be determined if the Fan parts aren't up to snuff and hell some of these differences could be upgrades. However, I am so grateful to have this opportunity so I'll take it. Next we just need associated to reproduce at least just the stealth tranny.
juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Sun Aug 11, 2024 7:30 pm
Those slightly protrude from the bottom. Unless you put a backing nut on, that's all the thread engagement available.
When they are in stock, I like the JConcepts ones. They are aluminum versions of the Worlds bellcranks.
The Fan RC belcranks have material added to the ballstud areas meaning they have more thread engagement than your setup. The pic I posted earlier shows what I'm talking about. This is also what I was saying would need to be shaved down.
I got curious so I looked at the Schumacher ones and they are slightly longer than the Fan RC ballstuds (by 0.4mm), This means you could just shave the bellcranks and be good, hopefully.
Schumacher on the left, 4.49mm. Fan RC on the right, 4.09mm
Rc10812 wrote: ↑Sun Aug 11, 2024 8:43 pm
Rogue nice side by side stealth comparison. Regarding the outdrives... I'm in the midst of building my trans for the fan kit. I did feel that the rings could use a sanding. I only sanded one side assuming that I don't want the ring to slip on the outdrive right? The outdrive to me felt rough. Like if I placed the ring on it and spun it around it felt gritty. But I hesitate to do anything to smooth it out because I'm assuming I don't want to encourage any spin between the ring and the outdrive. Right? Does anyone prep the outdrive at all?
No real reason to sand the outdrive side of the rings unless the surface is so bad that he ring doesn't sit flat.
Under normal circumstances the diff rings aren't going to spin unless you have a low wind motor in it, but even then the slipper should be slipping before those rings. If you are worried about slippage there's always CA glue.
Oh right on. Never thought about CA there. Good feedback. I actually didn't consider that the roughness would be from the rings. I'll give them a slight sand just in case but I was more concerned about the outdrives. They are actuality fairly light but they do feel rough. I've decided I'm not gonna mess with them though or anything else for now. I don't want to over think it and I can always address any issue if there is one later. I'm just getting back into rc and one I'm not an expert so shouldn't expect expert tolerances especially because I'll be lucky to get the time to actually race the car. Track time will mostly be just for my fix. I'm not sure I'd even know the difference between good enough and great while driving the car. I'm so excited that sometimes I gotta keep in mind not to sweat some details. Especially when they are above my pay grade.
RogueIV wrote: ↑Sun Aug 11, 2024 10:35 pm
The Fan RC belcranks have material added to the ballstud areas meaning they have more thread engagement than your setup. The pic I posted earlier shows what I'm talking about. This is also what I was saying would need to be shaved down.
For some reason, the picture of the Fan Rc bellcranks didn't show up when I looked earlier. But I see the problem now.
Always looking for new and interesting ways to waste money.
Can I bring this back to the shock shafts for a moment? So there's an issue with the front shocks only right? It sounds like the spacer included in the kit is for shorter shafts than the ones included in the kit? So there's two options... one get the shorter shafts or two get different spacers? 3/8" worth?
The rear shocks included are the 1.32 with 1.32 shafts. Same as all the rc10 buggies used except the world's car. Here is the page from the rc10 manuals. See the amount of spacer used?
This page is from the world's car which had the same 1.32 bodies but 1.02 shafts, note the much thinner spacers needed.
I suspect somewhere AE forgot what to do, similarly to many, many other little things they have got wrong on their rereleases- some as simple as forgetting to include holes. FanRC copied AE, which means he copied their failures too- like the rere world's trans and shock shafts
