Tamiya Sand Scorcher - 2010 Reissue

[1911Colt]

Yes, those are fingernail stars for women . They are the perfect scale size to try to make this happen.

Perfect! I bought some of those for an Evel Knievel themed buggy but wasn't sure they would work on the inside of the lexan, so I haven't tried it yet. For the helmet they should work well.

Peter Fonda is largely responsible for popularizing that helmet design:

[GreenBar0n]

Thanks for that! I had seen that movie, not even that long ago, and had totally forgotten Peter Fonda's helmet. That movie must have inspired Bell to make their version.

I was thinking I would use the stars as masks, and pull them off to reveal the white under the metallic blue. But the stars have a reflective property to them, might just use them over the blue.

[GreenBar0n]

Started out with a blue jacket, thought I'd add the red seat belts, like the old baja's.


Ended up with the cajun ruffles guy instead.


Hope the helmet turns out well, and puts things back in perspective.

[1911Colt]

Ended up with the cajun ruffles guy instead.

[GreenBar0n]

Got the foam battery holder, and fit the new 1500mah LiPo.


Chassis is almost done, will add a magnetic DC power coupler, for the switch on the lid to the chassis, so it comes off easily.


The aluminum 5-stars are like the Jackman wheels that were on the real Baja Bugs. Will most likely run these wheels, and not the shelf wheels I have on there now. Need to paint the Tamiya plastics black then assemble.


Went with Matte Black for the exhaust stinger.


Wet sanded the TS-26 white in a few places that were rough, will give it one more coat of white, then mask it off for the TS-10 French Blue.

[GreenBar0n]

The temps around here have been over 100°F, for many days, I can't get the best results in those conditions. Painting is slow going for the moment.

Exactly like the '70's Bell helmet that was in my Grandfather's garage (from one of my uncle's):


Got the putty and sanding completed on the mold seams, then painted it TS-26 white.


Smooth egg effect.


Got those star masks on, and the crown masked.




Hoping to get the metallic blue TS-19 layer on tomorrow.


There were some drips on the driver door, that I got polished out to 3500 grit, will lightly go over that spot in white again, then mask the body for TS-10 French Blue. I'm determined to get this project moving again, but I had to get more experience on my other projects, before trying some new techniques on this model. Going to focus on finishing the driver.

[GreenBar0n]

Was only 96°F out today, had to take a shot at this.

Got the drips sanded out of the driver door and back in primer.


Got the wheel wells painted thoroughly this time.


Those fingernail stars should not have been used as masks, the paint chemicals turned the stars into glue.


Trying to take them off just ruined it.


Had to put fresh stars over the missing and painted ones.


Started to get the Uncle Sam vibe from the driver, so I left the inside of the helmet and his hair white.




Need to wait at least 24 hours for this paint to cure before masking it.


I found out the hard way on the helmet that the tape will react with the paint if put on too soon afterwards. Hope I can remember all these hard lessons .

[GreenBar0n]

The Sand Scorcher box art shows the wheels have what looks like black lug nuts, or bolts.


The silver bolts didn't have enough contrast to stand out. Added M2 black hex cap bolts.


Adds another layer to the wheels.





Going to touch up the tire writing on these shelf wheels, and probably do the other two aluminum wheel sets too. The tire writing really adds to the scale effect, imo.

Uncle Sam is ready to ride.


Going to start masking for the TS-10 layer, the white is completely dry.

[GreenBar0n]

Tamiya 1mm curved white tape on all the tight edges, Tamiya masking tape on top of the white tape.




Going to go over the tape edges again to try to prevent any bleed, and then spray the TS-10.

[GreenBar0n]

4 coats of TS-10, about 3 minutes apart, in 94°F with 19% humidity - no drips.








It's been drying for about 40 minutes outside, going to wait another 20 minutes, and then pull off all the masking.

I always have drips/runs, and tape bleed, so by the odds and probabilities with no drips, there is bound to be tape bleed. Back in 30 with the unmasked results.

[GreenBar0n]

Good not great.

Should've used the curved tape over the fenders - notice how jagged the lines are where the fenders meet the body. Will have to get another can of TS-10 and do just the fenders again. One more hard lesson learned.

Otherwise not so bad, very little bleed.






Was so close to being done. Can't leave the fenders like that though, ordering TS-10 now.

[GreenBar0n]

The TS-10 arrived, and this ugly rats nest is because I ran out of the good tape.



Everything but the fenders and especially the area that joins the fender to the body, has been taped off using the Tamiya 3mm Curves/d tape, and then masking on top of the curve tape. This should leave a razor sharp line this time, is the hopes behind this.

Hope this fixes the problem, and doesn't create any new ones. About to find out.

[GreenBar0n]

Even lines above the fenders, had to clean up under the curve tape, it bled in spots.








Uncle Sam is ready to go.


Was thinking about going over this with TS-13 Gloss Clear, to give it that last bit of shine. Will wait on the decals until I figure it out.

[XLR8]

The challenge working with lacquer paints is that they dry very fast so you need to lay the paint heavy so it will flow (and avoid orange peel) BUT doing so, you increase the risk that it will bleed under the mask.
You're climbing the Mt Everest of RC body painting -- don't sweat the tiny mistakes. Having painted three Sand Scorchers, I believe it's impossible to achieve perfection.
Yours is coming along great so far and I predict that when it's finished and decals are applied, you won't even notice the very small blemishes.

[GreenBar0n]

The challenge working with lacquer paints is that they dry very fast so you need to lay the paint heavy so it will flow (and avoid orange peel) BUT doing so, you increase the risk that it will bleed under the mask.
You're climbing the Mt Everest of RC body painting -- don't sweat the tiny mistakes. Having painted three Sand Scorchers, I believe it's impossible to achieve perfection.
Yours is coming along great so far and I predict that when it's finished and decals are applied, you won't even notice the very small blemishes.

You're exactly right, trying to get that wet look using just the paint, makes me go too far trying to make the entire body even-wet look, and drips, or runs happen, every time. I have to stop that. A clear coat was the answer, for me.

With an even base coat, wet sanded to 3500 with a sponge - to remove orange peel and debris - and then a TS-13 clear gloss layer over that, it's as good as I've seen yet. I'm not good at applying or polishing clear yet, it's another set of lessons, but I'm hoping to level up there soon. (2) TS-13 Clear Gloss will be here next week.

I'm really amazed that even after a week or so, with 99% alcohol on a sharp Tamiya swab, or a q-tip, that the overspray and bleed can still be wiped off, like it was never there. That also takes the pressure off of masking errors and bleed, for me. If I know I can fail, and how to recover/get back up, it removes the hesitation going forward.

For Lexan bodies, the Tamiya Polycarbonate Paint Remover does that same magic, just erases the mistakes and bleed, days later.

I'm going to try to fix any mistakes in the paint first, then clear over it, the middle of this coming week hopefully.

Thanks as always @XLR8!