RC10 - A Stamp Rebuild - Chipped Idler Gear

[helbnd1]

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Your diff tube was delivered yesterday.

Much thanks! Really appreciate being able to get NOS parts still. I'll practice on my cracked tube's hub, first. Looking forward to getting this right.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-d-drive-ring-2-asc8504/p32677 I use these instead of pinning.

Is there a 'D' hub that matches those 'D' rings, or are you just supposed to file a flat spot in the stock hub? Thanks!


I'm really looking forward to getting back to this project, have one in the way that has to get done first, shouldn't be too much longer now.

[helbnd1]

I file them.
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Your diff tube was delivered yesterday.

Much thanks! Really appreciate being able to get NOS parts still. I'll practice on my cracked tube's hub, first. Looking forward to getting this right.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-d-drive-ring-2-asc8504/p32677 I use these instead of pinning.

Is there a 'D' hub that matches those 'D' rings, or are you just supposed to file a flat spot in the stock hub? Thanks!


I'm really looking forward to getting back to this project, have one in the way that has to get done first, shouldn't be too much longer now.

[GreenBar0n]

Now I want to find the expensive NMB bearings, and use light oil . Thanks guys!

I'll still go ahead and do everything in the Halsey guide, why not, I'm in no hurry on this one, just want it to be the best it can be for an old RC10; I also like the idea of having it race ready, even though I may only take it around the yard once or twice.

Just don't use thread lock on the plastic idler gears.

I've got the black delrin gears, but I didn't use any threadlock on those either, those tiny little screws are in there tight already. Thanks!

I file them.

This does look like the best idea to lock the rings permanently, it would be easier to mark the hubs and file them, than it was to drill and CA them; and with the D-rings the pin or set screw can't fall out or deform over time. Seriously considering doing this, by leaving the set screw on the outer hub that's already there now, for looks, and filing the 'D' in the stock rings, and not using those 2110 Bud's. Going to do it. Thanks!

[juicedcoupe]

Jammin Products made diff tubes and hubs that are already machined. The tube was also better.

[XLR8]

...

This does look like the best idea to lock the rings permanently, it would be easier to mark the hubs and file them, than it was to drill and CA them; and with the D-rings the pin or set screw can't fall out or deform over time. Seriously considering doing this, by leaving the set screw on the outer hub that's already there now, for looks, and filing the 'D' in the stock rings, and not using those 2110 Bud's. Going to do it. Thanks!

You really can't make D-rings from stock rings without enlarging the hole - it won't work.
When you file the D in the hubs, you'll want to bring it precisely flush with the surrounding ring mounting surface so the ring doesn't rock when the diff is assembled and make it feel notchy. I'm not saying the hubs cannot or should not be filed, but it could be difficult to get right.

With that said, I think pinning the rings is probably best for do-it-yourselfers.

[GreenBar0n]

Jammin Products made diff tubes and hubs that are already machined. The tube was also better.

I see Jammin Products Diff Tube and Outer Hub available, but it doesn't look like they have the D cut version. Would you know what they called the D hubs at Jammin Products? Thanks!

You really can't make D-rings from stock rings without enlarging the hole - it won't work.
When you file the D in the hubs, you'll want to bring it precisely flush with the surrounding ring mounting surface so the ring doesn't rock when the diff is assembled and make it feel notchy. I'm not saying the hubs cannot or should not be filed, but it could be difficult to get right.

With that said, I think pinning the rings is probably best for do-it-yourselfers.

I was going to buy the D-rings from AE that were listed earlier. The #2110 Bud's rings are hardened, can't do anything with those, they are what they are - 1/16" pin rings, and somehow not the right thing according to when the guide was written. Thanks!


The Jammin Products RC10 rings are... Double D's? These are said to be RC10, I'm guessing the diff tube and outer hubs must match this pattern.






Ordered these three, hope I got it right finally.

[XLR8]

Not familiar with Jammi'n products so I had to look it up.
This looks like a well-engineered kit:

In a way, it seems a shame that the Stealth tranny has rendered it obsolete.

[GreenBar0n]

Not familiar with Jammi'n products so I had to look it up.
This looks like a well-engineered kit:

In a way, it seems a shame that the Stealth tranny has rendered it obsolete.

Thanks for finding this article! It does show the Double locks, or two straight lines in the hubs also (of course it should work, I'm just new and keep getting the wrong thing). I had said earlier that I was going to file the D in the stock rings, I had meant to say file the D in the stock hubs, the rings are hardened, while the hubs are pretty soft, sorry for confusing my words there.

Interesting too that the article you posted says 1990 Team Losi Inc., at the bottom left. It then says all of the Jammin Products are a division of Team Losi. Amazing how close they still were back then, in 1990.

I have no experience with the 6-gear yet, still haven't driven one. My '96 RC10 CE was Stealth, and my '97 GT's, are Stealth also.

Looking forward to testing the 6-gear next to the Stealth, at some point.

[RC10resto]

Interesting too that the article you posted says 1990 Team Losi Inc., at the bottom left. It then says all of the Jammin Products are a division of Team Losi. Amazing how close they still were back then, in 1990.

And check out the physical address

[GreenBar0n]

And check out the physical address

Was just reading up on The Ranch Pit Shop. Thanks!



Had a moment to compare the FanRC steering assembly to the mid-late Edinger nylon.
No flash.


Flash.


How great is that match, I'd never have known that wasn't aged original Edinger nylon. I really didn't want anything but NOS parts, but if I want to drive this, another brittle and expensive NOS set is not in my future. These are great, well done FanRC!

[jcwrks]

FWIW the original AE steering bellcrank is bright white and a much harder plastic. Fan RC is not the correct color. It's possible he did that on purpose or decided to use the same nylon as the other parts.

[XLR8]

FWIW the original AE steering bellcrank is bright white and a much harder plastic. Fan RC is not the correct color. It's possible he did that on purpose or decided to use the same nylon as the other parts.


AE_bellcrank.JPG

That's all true and the original parts were not reinforced and were known to crack so he might have used the reinforced beige nylon (same as suspension parts) to make them more durable.
I'm okay with the decision to improve the parts.

[GreenBar0n]

FWIW the original AE steering bellcrank is bright white and a much harder plastic. Fan RC is not the correct color. It's possible he did that on purpose or decided to use the same nylon as the other parts.


AE_bellcrank.JPG

That's all true and the original parts were not reinforced and were known to crack so he might have used the reinforced beige nylon (same as suspension parts) to make them more durable.
I'm okay with the decision to improve the parts.

Definitely agree. I also have a 40th bright white bellcrank set, but will go with the FanRC for this.

[GreenBar0n]

The JJH rings and hubs will be here later today, getting ready to put this chassis back together.


While the color of the FanRC parts match exceptionally well:

- the FanRC bellcrank is really flexible, which is great for absorbing crashes and not splitting.


If I want to drive this one, I'm thinking the stiffer 40th bellcrank would be better for tighter steering - will put the 40th bellcrank in, it's closer to stock without the NOS brittle.

[Frankentruck]

Factory Works bellcrank setup would be even better, and it has color options now.