RC10 - A Stamp Rebuild - Chipped Idler Gear

[GreenBar0n]

From Page 6/12


A closer look demonstrates the problem.




Either the #2110 BRP, is not the exact same as the BUD2110 diff ring kit, or I have smaller drilled rings in error, there is no way a 4-40 set screw will fit.

I tried actual AE 4-40 set screws too, and while they have a longer nib or whatever you want to call that on the end, there was no way it would fit in the ring -regardless of the hole in the hub, which does fit the 4-40 bit, and is in the correct location.

Going to have to widen the rings to get a 4-40 set screw in there, I can't see any other way.

[XLR8]

From Page 6/12


A closer look demonstrates the problem.




Either the #2110 BRP, is not the exact same as the BUD2110 diff ring kit, or I have smaller drilled rings in error, there is no way a 4-40 set screw will fit.

I tried actual AE 4-40 set screws too, and while they have a longer nib or whatever you want to call that on the end, there was no way it would fit in the ring -regardless of the hole in the hub, which does fit the 4-40 bit, and is in the correct location.

Going to have to widen the rings to get a 4-40 set screw in there, I can't see any other way.

Maybe BRP's rings differ from Buds in that they were made to be locked with a pin not a screw.
I've never owned a set of locked rings. I've pulled this image from a BRP set posted on Ebay:

BRP pinned diff ring.JPG (9.78 KiB) Viewed 194 times

BRP pinned diff ring.JPG (9.78 KiB) Viewed 194 times

What do the instructions say?

[GreenBar0n]

These are the directions that came with the BRP #2110 kit, it mentions a 1-16" drill bit. What's that in relation to a 4-40?? I'm a VW air-cooled metric guy, the SAE/imperial fractions do nothing for me.



There is another BRP product with the number #2111, it is also for Associated, says Pan Car, but looks to have the larger 4-40 hole in the rings. Have no idea what's the truth here.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/256430602024


Those rings are not easy to drill, would rather just buy the right one and be done, but 2110 doesn't seem to be the right choice.

[GoMachV]

Running change, it looks like they started with a setscrew size hole and moved to a 1/16 pin instead- likely due to it being harder to balance the heavy steel screw. Buds became BRP so you probably can't pin down that the buds package would be a setscrew, but it's more likely than the much later brp branded packages.

[RC10resto]

Not sure if this will help you?

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=49515

[GreenBar0n]

Running change, it looks like they started with a setscrew size hole and moved to a 1/16 pin instead- likely due to it being harder to balance the heavy steel screw. Buds became BRP so you probably can't pin down that the buds package would be a setscrew, but it's more likely than the much later brp branded packages.

Here's the old style Bud's packaging, the instructions still say 1-16 drill bit - even back that far:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/353880795649

[GreenBar0n]

Not sure if this will help you?

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=49515

Thanks for that! I'm already drilled and tapped for 4-40, and a new outer hub is at least $30. Going to get those rings to work by widening the notch for 4-40.

[GoMachV]

Buds was still buds at least well into 1991, I think your going to struggle to find a very early pinned ring vs simply notching it out more with a Dremel and calling it a day.

[GreenBar0n]

Buds was still buds at least well into 1991, I think your going to struggle to find a very early pinned ring vs simply notching it out more with a Dremel and calling it a day.

Will try the 4-40 bit and oil first, really want it to be a clean looking and functional install. Have the Dremel metal cutoff wheel if all else fails. Thanks!

[Frankentruck]

Maybe try and make a reduced size tip on a set screw, if its long enough. Put it in a nut with the end sticking out, clamp the nut hard in a vise, and then do some work on the end with a file, cutting wheel, etc.

[GreenBar0n]

Had to grind the set screw, and the ring, was not easy getting it to flush. The dimension on the Dremel cutting wheel, even a short worn one, dictated the angle I could get at on the ring notch.


CA set screw.


Grind out gear cases.




Let the puller go a bit crooked, and it snapped part of the diff tube off. Could probably get away with still using it, but ordered a NOS tube.


Since the diff tube is on the backside, and can't be seen, I'm going to experiment with a pin instead of the set screw, for the rear hub, and using the cracked tube to test with.

Nobody said this was going to be easy.

[jcwrks]

Your diff tube was delivered yesterday.

[helbnd1]

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-d-drive-ring-2-asc8504/p32677 I use these instead of pinning.

[GreenBar0n]

Your diff tube was delivered yesterday.

Much thanks! Really appreciate being able to get NOS parts still. I'll practice on my cracked tube's hub, first. Looking forward to getting this right.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-d-drive-ring-2-asc8504/p32677 I use these instead of pinning.

Is there a 'D' hub that matches those 'D' rings, or are you just supposed to file a flat spot in the stock hub? Thanks!


I'm really looking forward to getting back to this project, have one in the way that has to get done first, shouldn't be too much longer now.

[RogueIV]

Now I want to find the expensive NMB bearings, and use light oil . Thanks guys!

I'll still go ahead and do everything in the Halsey guide, why not, I'm in no hurry on this one, just want it to be the best it can be for an old RC10; I also like the idea of having it race ready, even though I may only take it around the yard once or twice.

Just don't use thread lock on the plastic idler gears.