RC10 Classic 40th anniversary

[GoMachV]

I can tell you exactly how that ends.

Buy 40th kit

Buy all the Fan parts and trans

Assemble

Realize you have 60% of a car leftover

Order the parts to finish that one

[RogueIV]

As I've gotten closer to actually opening bags and starting my build, I've considered not using any of the AE supplied plastic parts or transmission and instead going with the FAN RC plastic set which I feel is much closer to the original RC10 nylon color. But after starting down this rabbit hole, I realized that if I do that, I'd also likely purchase the FAN RC stealth transmission, so I'd essentially be using the chassis, tires and wheels from the kit, being that I purchased a box art painted body from Andy's.

Anybody else go down this path? Is it ridiculous to do this being that it would add a tremendous cost to the build? Curious what everybody's opinions are.

Here's my take on the color. All the original RC10s are old and have yellowed over time. For comparison I took the trans brace off of my RC10T I have here, same plastic in the same original RC10 color.

Sure it's slightly more yellow than the 40th but it's also way older and off of a truck that was raced and putt away dirty since the early 90s.

Is it really worth spending the extra for that slight hue change? I mean you could just toss all the parts in Coffee for a bit and get the same effect.

[fotomatt1]

As I've gotten closer to actually opening bags and starting my build, I've considered not using any of the AE supplied plastic parts or transmission and instead going with the FAN RC plastic set which I feel is much closer to the original RC10 nylon color. But after starting down this rabbit hole, I realized that if I do that, I'd also likely purchase the FAN RC stealth transmission, so I'd essentially be using the chassis, tires and wheels from the kit, being that I purchased a box art painted body from Andy's.

Anybody else go down this path? Is it ridiculous to do this being that it would add a tremendous cost to the build? Curious what everybody's opinions are.

Seems ridiculous I think, keep it original 40th in my opinion. If you go down the Fan RC path, might as well buy a separate chassis, tires, wheels and have a "FAN RC parts car build" as well. I'd likely go with one of those blue anodized chassis' as well.

I’d like a blue anodized chassis also, but from what I’ve read, they don’t look very high quality. And you’re right that it’s a bad idea. I am curious about the stealth transmission vs the 6 gear.


FAN RC is also going to release their own graphite chassis kit which is probably the way to go.

[XLR8]

FWIW, I like my 40th just as it is. The nylon is nice and white, the anno is brilliant gold/orange and the zinc and black oxide plated parts look good as well.
The rest of my RC10 collection is old, the anno is faded and the nylon looks dingy by comparison and some of them have been peroxide treated.
My 40th looks like a new car and I like that.

I hadn't heard that Fan RC is planning a graphite. If they do and the chassis is like AEs graphite car and price is reasonable, I'm in!

[mikea96]

They already have the graphite chassis and bezerk rc does the coffin shaped graphite chassis as well.

[fotomatt1]

FWIW, I like my 40th just as it is. The nylon is nice and white, the anno is brilliant gold/orange and the zinc and black oxide plated parts look good as well.
The rest of my RC10 collection is old, the anno is faded and the nylon looks dingy by comparison and some of them have been peroxide treated.
My 40th looks like a new car and I like that.

I hadn't heard that Fan RC is planning a graphite. If they do and the chassis is like AEs graphite car and price is reasonable, I'm in!

From what I've heard it will be $389 + shipping.

[XLR8]

FWIW, I like my 40th just as it is. The nylon is nice and white, the anno is brilliant gold/orange and the zinc and black oxide plated parts look good as well.
The rest of my RC10 collection is old, the anno is faded and the nylon looks dingy by comparison and some of them have been peroxide treated.
My 40th looks like a new car and I like that.

I hadn't heard that Fan RC is planning a graphite. If they do and the chassis is like AEs graphite car and price is reasonable, I'm in!

From what I've heard it will be $389 + shipping.

That price seems reasonable to me if it includes shocks and transmission - a complete "slider" chassis.

[fotomatt1]

FWIW, I like my 40th just as it is. The nylon is nice and white, the anno is brilliant gold/orange and the zinc and black oxide plated parts look good as well.
The rest of my RC10 collection is old, the anno is faded and the nylon looks dingy by comparison and some of them have been peroxide treated.
My 40th looks like a new car and I like that.

I hadn't heard that Fan RC is planning a graphite. If they do and the chassis is like AEs graphite car and price is reasonable, I'm in!

From what I've heard it will be $389 + shipping.

That price seems reasonable to me if it includes shocks and transmission - a complete "slider" chassis.

Same...it is my assumption that it includes a stealth transmission and shocks, but I have no direct information to support this.

[drc35ca]

They already have the graphite chassis and bezerk rc does the coffin shaped graphite chassis as well.

https://bezerk.com.au/rc10-graphite-replica-chassis/

[last5liter]

Only 4000 made lol

[fotomatt1]

I'm a few steps into my build when I came to the transmission. One of the few tools I don't have are snap-ring pliers. I'm probably going to grab a set later, but just curious if there's a trick to installing snap-rings (c-clips) without them? Thanks in advance.

[Frankentruck]

Installing: Start one side in the groove. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to push / squeeze down the ring until the rest of it is in the groove.

[GreenBar0n]

I'm a few steps into my build when I came to the transmission. One of the few tools I don't have are snap-ring pliers. I'm probably going to grab a set later, but just curious if there's a trick to installing snap-rings (c-clips) without them? Thanks in advance.

The kit doesn't come with any extra snap-rings, if one of those goes flying across the room - they're hard to find. A decent set of snap-ring pliers lasts a lifetime and guarantees not to lose the rings.

If you do use a small screwdriver, maybe magnetize it to keep the rings from disappearing too easily.

[azone]

received my 40th kit today direct from associated - I was one of last orders before went out of stock about 3 weeks ago. So if ordered direct should get yours soon.
The color of the nylon is very very slightly more white than the last original kits that came from Cadillac Ave. The color of the nylon is a question I've always had - and I even posted a thread in a totally inappropriate place here on the forum that I plan to delete and supersede with another post here soon. The thing is, as an owner of an original RC10 in 1986 I know for a fact the nylon wasn't as white as the 40th kits. It never was, not when new, not before exposure to the elements, 40 years etc.. it never was. It always had an off-white color. However, as an owner of a mint late-Cadillac RC10 for about 16 years now I am 99.99% convinced that the nylon in later original RC10's is in fact whiter than the nylon in the early and mid years kits. I have my original RC10 from 1986, and both a mint Edinger & late-Cadillac that I bought about 16 years ago. The mint unused Endinger is exactly as I remember from years ago, while the Cadillac is obviously whiter. In fact, when I got the Cadillac several years ago I was thrown off because I had never seen an RC10 back in the day from say '86-'89 that was as white as my Cadillac.
So... maybe others can add there opinion or knowledge to this. I will post a new thread with pics when I make some time...

[b027]

The mint unused Endinger is exactly as I remember from years ago, while the Cadillac is obviously whiter. In fact, when I got the Cadillac several years ago I was thrown off because I had never seen an RC10 back in the day from say '86-'89 that was as white as my Cadillac.

I don’t trust my memory from so many years ago and in any case I dyed my parts blue pretty much right away . My acquired edinger is pretty yellow but I always assumed that was age.

Another explanation could be that your Cadillac’s previous owner treated with peroxide to counteract age effects…?

final thought - obviously I don’t recommend for nice OG parts but if you have something damaged like an old a-arm you could scratch the surface or cut into it to look inside. In my experience the subsurface color is a better indicator of original appearance from when it was new as surface discoloration doesn’t penetrate very far. I noticed this first when lightly sanding old parts to remove scratches and finding it also took away the yellow.