RC10 (alive again) - Rebuilding original gold shocks

[EvilJim]

Good day, folks...another question to pose, where I couldn't find an answer previously posted.

I'm (mostly) rebuilding my A-stamp, with the early gold shocks...the era when they only had a hard nylon washer to "seal" the caps to the bodies. I've got 2 of 4 shocks that are (still) leaking, from the top. While I did not completely strip them down (just dumped the old oil and refilled), I'm hoping to find out if there is a better solution than the nylon "seal" that came originally.

Most optimum, would be that someone has already figured out the right size o-ring that could be jammed into place, somewhere.
I'm not ready to try and butcher these with an attempt at a bleeder cap conversion. (Unless there's a current/available cap that could be used, but I doubt that.)

Thnx for your time and assistance,
EJ

RC10 Gold shocks by Evil Jim, on Flickr

[mikea96]

These work great!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/304449125893?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=itvnoxg4rzi&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=89eBq2rkRYK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[radioactivity]

Closest I can measure is 1mm cross section and 9mm ID.
Not exactly what I expected as AE is usually SAE.
Boki is probably the way to go like mike96 suggested.


Chuck

[EvilJim]

Thnx for that info...especially the measurements, Chuck.

That BOKI kit is great, other than being more than I need...though I suppose I could rebuild them, eventually. Not really sure I want to get that deep, since my main goal is simply playing again. With an eye towards maybe unloading it in the near future, what with parts and prices becoming more and more ridiculous to try and keep these things running.

[JosephS]

Thnx for that info...especially the measurements, Chuck.

That BOKI kit is great, other than being more than I need...though I suppose I could rebuild them, eventually. Not really sure I want to get that deep, since my main goal is simply playing again. With an eye towards maybe unloading it in the near future, what with parts and prices becoming more and more ridiculous to try and keep these things running.

Shocks are one of the less expensive things that can be rebuilt without great effort. Even from a bashing stand point it's worth it to rebuild the shocks, gear box and clean the motor. None of the lubricants on RC are meant to last for decades. A basic clean, lubrication and rebuild will make a car that handles pretty darn close to how it did when you first got it. If you think you might unload it, cars that look clean and well cared for sell better than cars that look crusty. A tooth brush, simple green, a rag ,shock oil and bearing oil are all you really need.

[EvilJim]

Shocks are one of the less expensive things that can be rebuilt without great effort. Even from a bashing stand point it's worth it to rebuild the shocks, gear box and clean the motor. None of the lubricants on RC are meant to last for decades. A basic clean, lubrication and rebuild will make a car that handles pretty darn close to how it did when you first got it. If you think you might unload it, cars that look clean and well cared for sell better than cars that look crusty. A tooth brush, simple green, a rag ,shock oil and bearing oil are all you really need.

I hear ya, Joseph. And if it goes that way, it won't look like it just came in from a bash. All of the nylon is actually about an hour from being ready to come out of the H2O2 tonight. Then a rehydration bath, reassembly, and I'll see where I'm at.

That said, for now I'm just trying to make sure everything will run once again, works smoothly, and I can play for a bit. So far, it's cheaper than newer equipment...particularly considering the Li-Po buy-in needed. Once I've got my AEs going again, I'll look deeper into what I'll keep, or not. Especially as it seems that moving some along could help fund a fresh run in the RC world.

[aakoskin]

For the cap seal I've used 13 mm OD 1mm thick O-ring. When tightening you first need to smear the o-ring with shock oil and not to overtight. For the bottom seals I used Traxxas 2362 kit. These were the shocks of my 1986 car, and I ran a full day race with the car in 2021 and shocks didn't leak (40 W oil).