That is one REALLY cool build!
The standup transmission comes in looking really close to a reversed standard Rustler tranny.
The only other thing I'd watch out for is heat development having the battery and the motor so close to each other.
Keep up the amazing work and keep us posted,
Mid Motor Rustler Build
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Re: Mid Motor Rustler Build
Thanks! I hadn't thought of the heat buildup, it's a good point. I never had an issue with it on my dex210 and as you can see below the battery and motor were pretty close in that car, too.Chewbacca wrote: ↑Thu Apr 21, 2022 8:52 am That is one REALLY cool build!
The standup transmission comes in looking really close to a revered standard Rustler tranny.
The only other thing I'd watch out for is heat development having the battery and the motor so close to each other.
Keep up the amazing work and keep us posted,

If I need to I should have plenty of space to put a small fan in that window right above the motor. Maybe I should start designing something just in case I do need it.
It's funny how close I'm getting to a car that's basically just a reversed stock transmission considering how vocal I've been in my criticism of that. But to be fair to myself, my design still solves the inherent flaws I think come with simply reversing a stock transmission and also has some nice added benefits - I'll have more fine tunable camber links and a solution for installing sway bars.
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Re: Mid Motor Rustler Build
Progress!



I'm pretty happy with how everything turned out. The motor plate took a few revisions to get right but I was able to work it out. The center brace with the inset nuts is a bad idea so that will be re-worked. But otherwise its ready to go from 3D printed prototype to finalized parts. My main chassis plate is starting to look like swiss cheese with all of the holes I've drilled for parts that I no longer use so I think I'll cut out a new one, but this time I want to try using aluminum. I think having a bit extra weight down low would help the car. The motor plate will be cut out of aluminum, and the brace and shock towers will probably be G10 just to save money. I have some polycarbonate blend filament I want to try using for the transmission case and maybe the camber link mount. That stuff has some pretty good impact resistance for a 3D printed filament so I'm curious if it will be strong enough for use in an RC car. If not, I may either send it out to be 3D printed in Nylon on an SLS machine like my current laydown transmission, or I may try to get into rigid polyurethane resin casting. I've found a resin that has an impact strength rating that exceeds nylon but is less stiff. However, like nylon, glass fibers can be added in to the resin to increase stiffness. It's something I've been wanting to try for a while, but the resins aren't cheap.
I also modified the shock tower to use a set of TLR 22 rear buggy shocks I had sitting around. Surprisingly the modern 22 buggy shocks have a longer stroke than the stock Traxxas shocks or even the RC10T3 rear shocks I had been using before. They're not as tall, however, so I need a lower hole on the shock tower to use them, but that's easy enough to accomplish. I'll be excited to use some nice modern big bores on this build. I was going mad from using clip on pre-load spacers.
With all that said, the electronics in this car were gutted to use in the TLR 22 5.0 I bought recently so until I free up some funds for this car, I'll probably put this on hold for the time being.



I'm pretty happy with how everything turned out. The motor plate took a few revisions to get right but I was able to work it out. The center brace with the inset nuts is a bad idea so that will be re-worked. But otherwise its ready to go from 3D printed prototype to finalized parts. My main chassis plate is starting to look like swiss cheese with all of the holes I've drilled for parts that I no longer use so I think I'll cut out a new one, but this time I want to try using aluminum. I think having a bit extra weight down low would help the car. The motor plate will be cut out of aluminum, and the brace and shock towers will probably be G10 just to save money. I have some polycarbonate blend filament I want to try using for the transmission case and maybe the camber link mount. That stuff has some pretty good impact resistance for a 3D printed filament so I'm curious if it will be strong enough for use in an RC car. If not, I may either send it out to be 3D printed in Nylon on an SLS machine like my current laydown transmission, or I may try to get into rigid polyurethane resin casting. I've found a resin that has an impact strength rating that exceeds nylon but is less stiff. However, like nylon, glass fibers can be added in to the resin to increase stiffness. It's something I've been wanting to try for a while, but the resins aren't cheap.
I also modified the shock tower to use a set of TLR 22 rear buggy shocks I had sitting around. Surprisingly the modern 22 buggy shocks have a longer stroke than the stock Traxxas shocks or even the RC10T3 rear shocks I had been using before. They're not as tall, however, so I need a lower hole on the shock tower to use them, but that's easy enough to accomplish. I'll be excited to use some nice modern big bores on this build. I was going mad from using clip on pre-load spacers.
With all that said, the electronics in this car were gutted to use in the TLR 22 5.0 I bought recently so until I free up some funds for this car, I'll probably put this on hold for the time being.
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