I feel like noobe all over again. I started this build years ago when painting an extra body I had lying around. After sitting on it awhile I've finally decided to pull the trigger on the A&L chassis kit. I opted for the 4 hole front tower and fiberglass chassis.
There will be some waiting on select parts, so this will be built on pace with someone Jason's builds... unless he has gotten quicker at his builds over the couple of decades
Chassis would need to have two holes drilled out, a longer trans brace, and you would need to modify the rear bumper. They trans and the chassis were different eras, and were not really used together. That said I have built quite a few c2 with lethal weapon.
GoMachV wrote: ↑Sat Jun 25, 2022 10:06 am
Chassis would need to have two holes drilled out, a longer trans brace, and you would need to modify the rear bumper. They trans and the chassis were different eras, and were not really used together. That said I have built quite a few c2 with lethal weapon.
I'll be doing this for sure I can't have a new lethal weapon transmission and not install it in this chassis.
It looks like the donor Championship car with the Team car shocks is going to need help with donating parts, the rear bulkhead is cracked around the battery housing.
In comes donor number 2, a RC10 graphite. I feel so reckless tearing into a complete RC10 at least it's for a good cause.
MarkyDents wrote: ↑Sat Jun 25, 2022 4:39 pm
It’s all good as long as you put that nice looking graphite back together with the correct pirated pieces when your done
No fear of that! I even have the first car back together as much as I can. Loose parts and hardware give me anxiety lol, clear space, clear mind
It gives me more room to polish my old balls and pins. I even stuck the front axles in the drill and gave them a once over.
If you didn't mind it being made of black nylon, I could 3D print you a rear bulkhead. Your RC10 Graphite wouldn't have to get cannibalized for that part.
Frankensteined RC10T3 / Franky Jr RC10GT-e (x2) / A+ stamp / Toy Story RC / Graphite replica / B1.5 BFG 5LTi / Clonewald / Hyper Hornet
"I love the effort, but it sure looks like you took the long way around to a tub again"
Frankentruck wrote: ↑Sun Jun 26, 2022 12:11 pm
If you didn't mind it being made of black nylon, I could 3D print you a rear bulkhead. Your RC10 Graphite wouldn't have to get cannibalized for that part.
That is so tempting! I want as many white parts on this as I can, because fibreglass chassis' look great with white parts and stainless hardware.
As odd as this is...would you consider blue or red? At least is would jive better with the paint scheme.
Another option would be to buy a white one that would be worth trimming the ballstud tabs off, since they have to be removed anyway. I think I will head to ebay to see what unicorns lay waiting... maybe I find some cheap NIP white long arms too
I think all I have is black nylon right now, but I'll double check if I have enough white nylon left. The white can be dyed. I could also eliminate any features you didn't need, like the ball stud mounts.
Frankensteined RC10T3 / Franky Jr RC10GT-e (x2) / A+ stamp / Toy Story RC / Graphite replica / B1.5 BFG 5LTi / Clonewald / Hyper Hornet
"I love the effort, but it sure looks like you took the long way around to a tub again"
GoMachV wrote: ↑Sat Jun 25, 2022 10:06 am
Chassis would need to have two holes drilled out, a longer trans brace, and you would need to modify the rear bumper. They trans and the chassis were different eras, and were not really used together. That said I have built quite a few c2 with lethal weapon.
Well, I've mod'd the rear bumper and installed the longer trans brace, but have yet to drill the chassis
I have a few unanswered questions... I mean hardware, is the fiberglass plate meant to be the drilling template?
Also, what are the other screws for?
I've temporarily used the graphite car's rear bulkhead to mock things up