Apologies on only coming across this thread recently. Those Pro-SE swept A-arm files are my design. They can probably be found via Yeggi, but they were originally posted to the Thingiverse site here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4348333
Free to use for all - I only ask that you give credit for the effort to create the files
. If there's ever something that someone is looking for in a particular line-up, feel free to PM me, and I will add it to the queue. I've posted quite a few files based on requests, I only ask that you provide the info for others. This helps others find the information (and saves people a lot of time).
Some background into the design, I modeled this arm 4 years ago. My original printer (a M3D) was not capable of producing particularly great parts at the time due to some of the limitations of the printer. A couple printers later, and the file was posted after some successful tinkering. I may post the non-webbed version at some point, as I think it makes the car look more like the XX prototypes run at the 91 Worlds and allows for users to manipulate infill to adjust flex/weight.
While I have modeled/designed quite a few 3D printed parts, the process does have some inherent weaknesses for parts that are not produced with a higher end printer if the original designs are copied 100%. Weight was given priority to strength on many of the designs from early 1990's through the 2000's. Ideally, if parts are copied 100%, they should be printed in a nylon / glass-filled nylon or via a resin printer in a nylon-esque material for maximum strength. Shapeways is a good option for that (as most people do not have access to a commercial printer). For most typical individuals, a personal 3D printer is a reasonable option. Nylon or polycarbonate can be printed on a personal 3D printer but can be difficult to work with if you do not have a humidity/temperature-controlled location. Because of this, most of the parts that I have modeled/modified are designed to be useable with filaments that most users can print (i.e., PETG or ASA) - and may have some additional tweaks to improve strength or remove B-side features that are unnecessary with a 3D printed part. Generally, I avoid PLA (weakens/becomes brittle over time) and typical SLA resins (brittle/sags with exposure to heat).
