Straight from the attic, my 1985 RC10 back for action!

[Vice]

Here you go guys. I bought this used in 1986. This car has been through many mods. Hyperdrive (belt drive), direct drive from track master, front a arms, Chain drive, crazy light weight graphite chassis from tower in 1987, long front shock tower, and so on and on and on and on. This car has not seen light since 1991. Check out the motor, who remembers speedworks? It looks like I broke the front A arm and put it away. After getting this weird RC bug again after all these years, I pulled it out from my parent’s attic. I just ordered the RPM A arms all the way around and items needed to rebuild the shocks. Too bad, they only come in black so i bought dye to make all the major parts match. I also just picked up a semi-new stealth transmission off ebay. So here I go again at 33 years of age and this time I have money!!!! I'm going to mod it to today’s standards (brushless and lipo) and if that goes well, I think I might pick up a RC8 and convert it to electric. Anyhoo, I thought I would share. God, I never thought I would have ever gotten back into this again. I was a terror at the tracks in 1987. It might be a real scream to take this beast back to the track again.

[JK Racing]

Looks the business, for back in the day...have you read up on the Vintage Nationals in the General section?

I also have a vintage that I use brushless/lipo (currently uninstalled from my RC10, getting ready to drop into my Pro SE, or maybe the 10T). While I didnt attempt to set the car up for the track I was at, it was fun running a couple dozen laps with the old girl. I plan on the Pro SE to not only be a runner, but a racer .


Good luck, keep the photos rollin' in.

[m_vice]

That looks freaking cool I got the same situation going at 31. I starter last year and now I have 4 rc10, a rc10t and a rc10t2. Only one rc10 and the rc10t are runner, for now. But with the wife and 2 kids plus work it is a little hard to get to practice and racing, but I am definitely going to. I still love it like back then.

I had a speedworks motor like that, good time.
One more thing, I think I would change the arms to black but keep the rest white, is one of the thing that makes the car vintage, no new cars come with white parts and it might still look cool.
Your car look really cool… Keep us posted on you progress.

[GAMMACRUSH]

that looks really cool, what kind of chassis is that?
:edit:
oh i read the post, its a light weight chassis from tower hobbies? thats kind of kool... so would be a rare piece?

[badhoopty]

slick! i wish i still had my first.

i wouldnt dye your parts. i'd scope ebay or the buy/sell area for some white replacements. heck i wouldnt even clean it, thats vintage dirt on there as well.

[Vice]

that looks really cool, what kind of chassis is that?
:edit:
oh i read the post, its a light weight chassis from tower hobbies? thats kind of kool... so would be a rare piece?

Thats a good question. I've been combing the internet for parts lately and I have yet to come across another one. It's great for weight savings but not so good for protecting the body and or dirt entry. I'm working on a new way to seal it up better.

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I'm just stuck on my next move for my next car, B44 or convert a RC8 to electric. It would be a RC8 hands down if it wasn't for it being pre-assembled, whats up with that? If I stick to off-road racing, I do believe that 4wd is the way to go.

[Dr. Robotnik]

I personally would leave your current car in vintage condition and would build another cheap runner up to modern standards. There are some great threads on here lately about modernising an RC10...

[17nut]

wish i still had my first one as well! i have the tranny brace from it yet!! thats a cool 10 there what kind of motor palte is that?

[Vice]

wish i still had my first one as well! i have the tranny brace from it yet!! thats a cool 10 there what kind of motor palte is that?

I think it was for my old hyperdrive setup.

[Vice]

I just wanted to give everyone an update on my car. I have been slowly planning out what I want out of this rebuild. My main intension is to have fun with this car and race it again! Therefore, all the changes I did to it were all the things I would have did to it back in the day. The transmission is now a full functioning stealth with a B4 clutch and blue B2 motor plate. I also updated the dog bones to a MIP CVD, I really like this upgrade. RPM arms all the way around and some parts where dyed to match other parts. I also bought turnbuckles but I think there were ment for a different 10, because there where a royal pain in the but. I had to cut the rods and cups to make them fit right. I tried to keep some parts white for the retro look, but most were dyed black. In the end I now wish I would have dyed everything black because some parts are just nasty looking. In the end, this will be a lipo brushless machine. Here are some pics and a list of parts at the end of this post. Thanks for looking .














LX2861 Associated Stealth Complete Screw Kit 1 $2.39
LXS447 Kimbrough Servo Gear Saver Futaba 1 $3.89
LX2882 Associated Stealth Differential Lube 1 $2.39
LX2869 Associated Stealth T-Nut/Thrust Bolt 1 $2.89
LXEAK5 Associated Kimbrough Spur Gear 87T 1 $3.89
LX2770 Associated E-Clips 1/8 Shaft (12) 1 $1.90
LXEAC1 Associated Top Shaft RC10B4 1 $9.29
LX2547 Associated Ball Cup Dust Cover (28) 1 $1.90
LXEAD1 Associated Slipper Spring RC10B4 1 $1.45
LX2762 Associated Differential Adjusting Nuts (6) 1 $.95
LXEAC7 Associated Slipper Pad RC10B4 (2) 1 $6.69
LX2874 Associated Stealth Carbide Ball 3/32 (12) 1 $10.99
LX3321 Associated Flat Screws 4-40x3/8" (6) 2 $3.80
LX2880 Associated Stealth Black Grease 1 $2.39
LX2889 Associated Springs Rear Blue Soft (2) 2 $4.78
LX3219 Associated Gear Dust Cover B2 1 $1.45
LXTD01 Associated Factry Motor Mount RC10B2/RC10B3/RC10T3 Blue 1 $7.69
LXEAD0 Associated Slipper Hub RC10B4 2 $15.38
LX2540 Associated Adjustable Tie-Rod Set Turnbuckle 1 $14.79
LXAV59 MIP CVD Kit RC10 1 $20.69
LX2863 Associated Stealth Motor Plate Spacers 1 $1.45
LXBMG8 Associated Differential Bearing 3/16x3/8" 1 $11.99
LX2605 Associated Shock Rubber Cap Gaskets (4) 1 $1.45
LXEU80 RPM Spring Cups RC10 (4) 1 $2.89
LX2594 Associated Shock Rebuild Red O-Ring (8) 1 $1.90
LX2606 Associated Mounting Kit w/Rod End 2 $8.58
LX2739 Associated Hood Pins (6) 1 $.95
LX3305 Associated Silicone Shock Oil 30 Weight 2 oz 1 $3.39
LXEU95 RPM Arms Rear RC10 (2) 1 $9.49
LXGAF4 RPM A-Arms Front RC10 (2) 1 $9.49
Partial stealth from ebay 1 $42.00
Front rims ebay 1 $5
Another set of rims ebay 1 $11.00

[klavy69]

I'm just stuck on my next move for my next car, B44 or convert a RC8 to electric. It would be a RC8 hands down if it wasn't for it being pre-assembled, whats up with that? If I stick to off-road racing, I do believe that 4wd is the way to go.

The public is wanting to play NOW...not build it then run it. RTR seems to have taken over with kits few and far between. I believe the rc8 was going to be available in team kit form but not sure.

Nice lookin buggy. Like the chassis and the whole concept of it. Understand the problems with getting it to seal out the dirt and dust. Just an idea but if you got a piece of lexan and used it as a chassis protector and cut it out to the shape of the body maybe bending up the sides to slide into the side of the upper body it would help some.
Todd

[Vice]

I agree on the lexan and will give it a try. Curse this instant gratification generation

[Vice]

Here is the latest update. Ball bearing aluminum steering assembly. It's nice to have all the slop out of the steering mechanism.

[klavy69]

Lookin good Vice. That steering assy sure looks like it would take the slop out . Don't think there will be too much flex in it either . keep the updates comin in.
Todd

[CON2]

Long shot but have you ever weighed it?