Hydrogen peroxide

[Carknowledge101]

So I read the forum about the hydrogen peroxide trick and it seemed to work really well. I read the whole forum but it seems that it didn’t answer the question... Does it actually work? I saw that it makes the parts super white but does it also make them super brittle? I’m not heavily bashing mine but it would be a runner. Any help would be great.

[radioactivity]

My experience has been if you are trying to "super white" a badly yellowed part it will take more time, more sunlight(UV), heat and/or stronger hydrogen peroxide.
All or any of these in excess will lead to weakening and or leaving a dry crust on the nylon.
I feel moderation is the key. If the part is not badly yellowed it might safely brought back to white.
If it takes days in the sun, damage will probably occur.
3% peroxide for 6-8 hours and bright sunlight should be fairly safe so long as the temperature of the peroxide doesn't get too high.
Just my opinion other may have different results.

Chuck

[Lowgear]

This is kind of off-topic but after you peroxide parts, I imagine they just return back to yellow again. I've never tried it but I doubt it's a permanent solution. There's clear paint out there specifically for UV resistance. I wonder if that would help with the cosmetic longevity? Anyway, If this is for a runner where the parts will be subjected to stress, it might not be worth chancing it merely for looks.

[Burniefloyd]

Not to hijack the thread but I am going to peroxide my first set of parts this weekend and I was wondering if I am whitening wheels do I need to remove the glued tires first?

It is a shelfer so if it will damage the tires I will remove them but if then I will soak them too.

[radioactivity]

Not knowing the composition of the tires in question a firm answer is difficult.
If going on the shelf I'd remove the tires and clean/prep them separately.
Clean the wheels, peroxide the wheels, clean the wheels again to remove all traces of peroxide, soak to rehydrate and maybe some ArmorAll??
Treat the tires like your car tires, soap, water and scrub. Follow with the dressing of your choice.
Thats just my opinion...

An interesting analysis of hydrogen peroxide compatibility. https://www.industrialspec.com/images/files/hydrogen-peroxide-material-compatibility-chart-from-ism.pdf

Chuck

[Michaels tc]

The parts that were whitened can turn back to yellow? or does that only happen if in direct sunlight like a shelf car?

[Pyxster]

I "whitened" my parts. I placed them in a 9x13 Pyrex glass pan, poured in a bottle of hydrogen peroxide and covered it with plastic wrap to keep evaporation down. I placed the whole thing on an aluminum baking sheet in the sun (hoping to bounce rays around more). The peroxide would get pretty warm, so I'd take it out of direct sun every couple hours to cool down, stirring and flipping parts over. At night I'd take the parts out scrub off any dirt or rust and soak them in distilled water, the next day I'd put the still yellow parts back in the dish with new peroxide in the sun. The arms were the most yellow so those were out for 3 days. The colors are pretty consistent and closely match the "new" wheels I picked up.

That was a few months ago, the parts still look fine but I'm keeping them out of the sun and away from a window while I wait to reassemble the car. (I'm 3D modeling the car using the parts as reference, and it's taking longer that I had hoped )

[TRX-1-3]

Not to hijack the thread but I am going to peroxide my first set of parts this weekend and I was wondering if I am whitening wheels do I need to remove the glued tires first?

I hear you can fume off CA glued tires with acetone. Put some acetone in a container and suspend/place the tire/wheel assembly above the acetone (don't submerge them) and then seal it up and let the fumes soften up the CA. Tires should come right off after some time in the "fume chamber". I think @Lonestar does this trick often. He might be able to get you setup with the proper method. Or you could search the forum for the topic. Be sure the wheels are nylon though. I think the acetone would chew up ABS plastics.

[klavy69]

Not to hijack the thread but I am going to peroxide my first set of parts this weekend and I was wondering if I am whitening wheels do I need to remove the glued tires first?

I hear you can fume off CA glued tires with acetone. Put some acetone in a container and suspend/place the tire/wheel assembly above the acetone (don't submerge them) and then seal it up and let the fumes soften up the CA. Tires should come right off after some time in the "fume chamber". I think @Lonestar does this trick often. He might be able to get you setup with the proper method. Or you could search the forum for the topic. Be sure the wheels are nylon though. I think the acetone would chew up ABS plastics.

just like trx stated. the tires will come off easily. I use a one gallon or a two gallon bucket with an airtight lid. I suspend the wheels/tires in the bucket or set them on top of something to keep them outta the acetone. Pour enuf acetone in the bottom of the bucket to cover the bottom and set them sit for 24 hours or so. usually I set the wheels are laid flat so the melting CA doesn't run down the wheel making more of a mess. Most glues come off in that 24 hour period. Some require more time and redoing them. You should work fast once you take them outta the acetone because the CA will start to cure again once its out of the acetone vapors.

ALSO, like trx stated...ABS melts also. newer Duratrax wheels were notorious for this
Todd